Necessity Breeds a New Wire Wrap Technique

Craft Professionals, Crafts, Guest Bloggers, Jewelry Making, Techniques and Mediums 2 Comments

Welcome Guest Blogger and Crafter Anitra Cameron, for the Blog “Coffee Pot People”.

Necessity Breeds a New Wire Wrap Technique

This may be new only to me, but I love it anyway.

One of the things I like about a car trip, if I’m not driving, is that bright expanse of free time. Really free. I can’t do dishes, or laundry, or weed the flower beds. I have to sit, and if I’m going to do something, the options are limited. Reading, going over my music, crocheting, or what I did yesterday, beading.

I worked on Button Stack Bracelets, finishing three I’d already started, and almost a fourth, brand-new one. On that one, I did all the button stacks first, and then turned my focus to creating the chain to put the stacks on.

Finished Bracelet

Finished Bracelet

Now, where was that 20-gauge gold wire…? Oh, no! I was sure I’d put it in, but it was nowhere to be found! I stared at what I had, a spool of 24-gauge that was much finer than I’d want to use for a bracelet chain. What to do?

Ooooh. The idea was ripe for the plucking, and solved a problem that had nothing to do with the lost wire: I don’t like it when the end of a wire can be felt, and when I’m doing a wire wrap on a bead, that happens all too often. Up until yesterday, the only solution was to struggle with the wire until it would properly tuck in, or file the end down if it proved too stubborn.

But what if I worked with a fine wire, doubled?

Here’s what I came up with:

Gather your tools and materials–

Two sizes of wire shown for comparison

Two sizes of wire shown for comparison

Cut a length of wire about six inches long, then fold it in half.

Loop it over one side and pull taut

Loop it over one side and pull taut

Flatten the doubled end with your flat nose pliers as tightly as you can.

Squish!

Squish!

Measure your folded wire against the bead you’ll be using, leaving enough length for wire wraps on both ends. 

That looks about right

That looks about right

Start a “regular” wire wrap, working with the cut ends of the wire.

So far, so normal

So far, so normal

 When you’ve done a wrap and a half or so, lay the ends flat against the rest of the wire length. If your wire ends are longer than the bead you’re using, snip them off.

 

Those ends will be hidden inside the bead

Those ends will be hidden inside the bead

Slip the bead over the doubled end of the wire, and complete the wrap. I’ve shown what would be the first bead in an assembly, and not left it open to accept another.

No sharp ends anywhere

No sharp ends anywhere

If you cut your folded wire extra long, you can have extra fun.

Curls and Loops

Curls and Loops

I finished the bracelet this morning, and am quite pleased with it.

Click here to read more from Anitra Cameron.

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Shank Button Earrings - A Short Tutorial

Craft Professionals, Crafts, Guest Bloggers, Jewelry Making, Techniques and Mediums 1 Comment

Welcome Guest Blogger Anitra Cameron, from the Blog “Coffee Pot People”.

Do you ever get the urge to just make something? Maybe you don’t have a lot of time, but there’s that need. It was that sort of a day for me. When time is limited, earrings can feed the creative hunger I feel, and anyway, the beads and buttons were already out, because I’d finished a bracelet just before going to bed last night. Since I’d been working with green, I just dug around in the green button baggie until I found a pair of buttons I liked.

Then I turned my fifteen minute project into two that took considerably longer by deciding to do this tutorial. Well, a girl’s gotta do what a girl’s gotta do.

You’ll need the usual array of beading tools–round-nose pliers, flat-nose pliers, and wire nips. And also:

Pick out your beads

Fine gauge wire (I used 24 gauge)
2 matching shank buttons
4 matching flat, square beads (other shapes would also work–they just need to be flat)
2 seed beads

I’m going to assume you know basic wire wrapping technique (just enough to make a wrapped loop) to keep this brief, and also because I know others have already put tutorials for that up, and mine wouldn’t be as good.

So start by cutting a length of the wire roughly a foot long. You want to give yourself enough to work with. Make a wrapped loop on one end, and the thread on a flat bead, a button, and another flat bead.

Threading on

Threading on

I noticed when I was working with my beads that the hole ran at a bit of a slant. If yours are similarly drilled, put the off-center hole against the shank of the button. Also, check to see whether one side of each bead is prettier or more evenly colored, and be sure to put the nicest side facing out.

This is where it gets just a bit more complicated. At the top of the beads you’ve just strung, make another wrapped loop, but instead of cutting the wire, bring it down the front of the top flat bead, and under the button.
Twist

Twist

Now wind the wire once around the shank of the button, pulling it tight. Bring the wire down around the lower bead, crossing it diagonally, and loop it around the wire-wrapping at the bottom, then back up the front of the bead, and under the button. Pull the wire in against the button shank, cross the upper bead on the diagonal, and wind it around the top loop a time or two, and clip.

That’s a lot of words for something that really happens almost intuitively, so study the picture below and go with your instincts.

Almost Done

Almost Done

The last step is to wire wrap a seed bead, and hang it from the bottom loop.
I think they turned out rather well.

I think they turned out rather well!

To read more of Anitra’s blog, click here.

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Jewelry Making Jargon

Glossaries, Jewelry Making No Comments
Texture: refers to the physical surface qualities of the plant or flowers in an arrangement. Smooth, glossy, rough, soft. It can also refer to the size of leaves, twigs, or branches in an arrangement.
Wreath: flowers, twigs, grasses, and/or vines intertwined in a circular or continuous shape.
Alloy: metal made up of a mixture of two or more different metals. Common examples of alloys include bronze (a mixture of copper and tin), brass (copper and zinc), and pewter (tin with antimony, copper and sometimes lead
Annealed: softened by heat
Bail: metal triangle used to attach a bead or a pendant to a necklace
Baroque: irregular, rounded stone, glass or bead
Base Metal: non-precious metals used as a core for plating and gold-filled items; brass and nickel are common base metals in jewelry
Bead Loom: wood or plastic frame used to stretch warp threads for bead weaving
Bead Tip: jewelry finding used for attaching thread to a clasp. A knot sits inside a small concave shape attached to a bent metal loop
Beeswax: used to strengthen and smooth beading thread
Bell Cap: jewelry finding used to convert a bead or stone with no hole into a pendant using glue
Bib: necklace that fits close to the base of the neck and extends over the chest in the shape of child’s bib
Burr: roughness left by a tool in cutting wire or metal
Cabochon: a round or oval stone, cut and polished with one flat side (the back) and one smooth domed side (the front or face); afaceted cabochon is cut with faceted surfaces around the edge of the stone
Catches: used for necklaces and bracelets to attach or clasp one end to the other end
Choker: short necklace, usually 15 inches long, fitting snugly at the base of the neck
Coil: flat spiral of wire or metal
Crimp Bead: small, soft metal beads that are squeezed shut to secure loops of threading material fasteners onto clasps
Dog collar: wide choker, worn tightly around the neck
Drop: attachment to jewelry that allows bead or metal to dangle away from the main line of the jewelry piece
Eyepin: wire finding with a loop at one end. used for linking beads or beaded links together
Facet: flat, polished surface cut into a stone or bead
Findings: as in jewelry findings, head pins, eye pins, fastenings, brooch and earring fittings, and more
Gauge: measure of dimension
Gold: yellow colored, soft, shiny metal commonly used in jewelry. The purity of gold is measured in “karats.” 24 karat (or 24k) denotes pure or fine gold; 12k is 50% gold; 14k is about 58% gold. Gold that is less than 24k is actually an alloy
Gold-filled: thin layer of gold bonded to a base metal core. In gold-filled products, the gold layer must be at least 1/20th (5%) of the overall product, by weight
Gold-plated: very thin layer of gold bonded to a base metal core
Hat Pin: very straight, often long eye pin with a sharp end, which usually has a back or cover. Originally used to help the ladies keep on their hats, modern use is ornamental rather than functional. Most of pin is exposed to the eye
Head Pin: also known as eye pins; long wires with a flattened end, used for basic component in many bead style earrings or for attaching beads to any type of jewelry piece
Hoop: circular earrings
Jump Rings: small metal rings used to attach necklace fastenings and to join metal lines
Knot: knots are formed to each side of bead to separate, space, or secure
Lampwork: technique for making glass beads by hand. A glass rod or cane is held into a flame or “lamp” and wound around a mandrel. The bead is shaped or smoothed by rotating the mandrel through the flame
Lapel Pin: also known as a bar pin; eye pin is bent to form clasp, is threaded, and then bent again to hold beads in place and form a pin back; back of pin not exposed to the eye
Lapidary: cutting, shaping, polishing and creating jewelry from precious and semi-precious stones
Lavaliere: necklace with a drop of a single stone suspended from a chain
Loaf: block of clay with a pattern throughout; usually a square shape
Log: roll of clay that is thicker than a cane
Matinee: necklace 24 to 26 inches long; in Europe, 30 to 35 inches
Opera: necklace 28 to 30 inches long; in Europe, 48 to 90 inches, can extend to 120 inches
Opacity: quality of not allowing light to pass through (the quality of being opaque)
Opaque: not allowing light to pass through; solid
Paste: jewelry made of glass imitating faceted gemstones
Pendant: main bead or other “show” piece that is dropped from a necklace
Princess: necklace 20 to 21 inches long
Rope: string of beads, pearls, stones used to form a bracelet or necklace
Sautoir: long necklace popular in the 1920s; usually made of chains, beads, or pearls and ending in a tassel or fringe
Silver: white colored, soft, shiny metal, commonly used in jewelry. Like gold, silver is available in different levels of purity: the purest form, Fine silver, is 99.9% silver; Sterling silver is 92.5% silver, with other metals (usually copper) making up the remaining 7.5%; Coin silver is 90% silver with 10% copper. Nickel silver is an alloy of copper (65%), nickel and zinc - no silver at all
Silver-plated: a very thin layer of silver bonded to a base metal core
Split Ring: small base metal finding resembling a key-ring
Stud: as in earring, simple earring with no drops
Torsade: combination of several strands of pearls, chains, or beads twisted together into a single necklace
Translucent: allowing some light to pass through; objects seen through translucent material are diffused or indistinct
Transparent: easily seen through; allowing light to pass through without obscuring the ability to see objects on the other side
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Stone Jargon

Glossaries, Jewelry Making 1 Comment
Amethyst: transparent purple stone, sometimes with inclusions. Hues range from lavender to deep regal purple.
Aventurine: green or blue semi-translucent to mostly opaque stone with mica flecks that cause a slight metallic iridescence
Black Onyx: a black opaque stone
Bloodstone: dark green opaque stone with red spotting
Blue Lace Agate: light blue translucent stone with white or milky banding
Cape Amethyst
(Amethyst Quartz):
translucent light to medium purple stone with white banding
Carnelian: orange to bright red-orange translucent stone
Clear Quartz
(Rock Crystal):
a colorless transparent stone
Fancy Jasper: an opaque multi-colored stone; colors are muted and range from green-blue to pinkish to orange-yellow frequently in the same stone
Fluorite: a transparent stone; green and purple with clear areas or bands
Garnet: a transparent stone ranging in color from light red to darkish plum red
Hematite: a silvery, shiny opaque stone that almost looks like metal
Iolite: a transparent blue-violet stone; the lighter colors show more of the violet hue
Lapis Lazuli: a dark, royal blue opaque stone with white veins or patches called calcite and a few gold-looking metallic flecks called pyrite
Malachite: an opaque, banded stone; the colors in the bands range from a very light green to almost black
Moonstone: a translucent milky stone with a little iridescence; can be found in several colors, most common are whitish-clear, grey, and light peach
Moss Agate: not an agate, strictly speaking, but a chalcedony. Semi-transparent to opaque, mostly a variety of green tones with a little white or clear
Natural Carnelian: a light to medium orange translucent stone, frequently with areas of lighter and darker orange for a banded or mottled look
Natural Onyx: a semi-translucent to opaque, light colored stone with some banding found in varying degrees of yellowish-white, pale greenish-white, and grey
Picture Jasper: a tan, opaque stone with medium and dark brown patches
Poppy Jasper: opaque with colors of brick red, whites, browns and blacks
Red Jasper: an opaque, mostly red stone
Rhodochrosite: a medium to light pink opaque stone with cream or creamy-pink banding
Rhodonite: a pink, opaque stone from medium pink to dusty rose, often with black inclusions
Rose Quartz: a pink transparent stone, sometimes leaning toward translucent, or with inclusions
Smokey Quartz: a brown transparent stone; color ranges from very slightly brown to dark
Tiger’s Eye: an opaque brown stone, with bands of darker brown and golden-yellow
Unakite: an opaque stone variegated with shades of green and pink, sometimes with a little russet or red
White Marble: an opaque stone with a little metallic shimmer to it
White Onyx: a semi-translucent white to slightly yellowish-white stone that sometimes has an opaque white banding
White Quartz: a translucent white stone with varying degrees of opacity having some areas of cloudiness
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Trends In 2008 - Jewelry and Beads

Jewelry Making, Trends No Comments

Jewelry is getting bolder and bigger. Big focal pendants and beads are a focus for jewelry designs with simple chains or fibers. Earrings are getting intricate, complex and larger too, while bracelets seem to be keeping it simple and charming. Natural beads are popping up made of materials like bone, wood, shell, and of course glass. Crystals are a classic and everyone loves sparkle and shine.

Tools are expanding. Everything from hand tools to very specific tools for one task like jump rings or knotting. And get ready for more ways to organize all of your jewelry pieces and parts. You can’t use it if you can’t find it. Jewelry is made up of so many tiny components that organization is just a must-do!

Jewelry designs being shown are earthy, toned-down and bright, bold! It’s always an extreme in jewelry since there are so many influences. Match your colors to your mood and the clothes in your closet. There is a trend to not be matchy-matchy, but to throw in a color or two that just pops.

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