Types of Paper

Glossaries, Paper Crafts 1 Comment
Acetate: not a paper per say, but often used as a surface. A thin, flexible sheet of transparent plastic used to make overlays
Acid Free Paper: has no free acid, or a pH of at least 6.5. The use of a synthetic sizing material allows the paper to be manufactured with a neutral or alkaline pH
Acid Sized Paper: manufactured under acid conditions having no surface buffering capacity
Board Paper: grade of paper commonly used for file folders, displays, and post cards
Bond Paper: grade of paper commonly used for writing, printing, and photocopying
Book Paper: grade of paper suitable for books, magazines, and general printing needs
Bristol Paper: type of board paper used for post cards, business cards, and other heavy-use products. Some types of Bristol are referred to as Vellum Bristol, but are not true translucent vellum
Buffered Paper: made in an acid environment and then buffered on the surface to obtain a required pH
C1S: paper coated on one side
C2S: paper coated on both sides
Cardboard Paper: general term for stiff, bulky paper such as index, tag, or Bristol
Corrugated Paper: fluted paper between sheets of paper or cardboard or the fluted paper by itself
Cotton Content Paper: made from cotton fibers rather than wood pulp
Dry Gum Paper: label paper or sheet of paper with glue that can be activated by water
Enamel Paper: another term for Coated paper with gloss finish
Handmade Paper: sheet of paper, made individually by hand using a mold and deckle
Index Paper: light weight board paper for writing and easy erasure
Laid Paper: paper with a prominent pattern of ribbed lines in the finished sheet. It is accomplished in handmade paper using a screen-like mold of closely set parallel horizontal wires, crossed at right angles by vertical wires spaced somewhat further apart
Machine Made Paper: sheet of paper produced on a rapidly moving machine called the Fourdrinier, which forms, dries, sizes and smoothes the sheet; uniformity of size and surface texture marks the machine-made sheet
Manila Paper: strong, buff-colored paper used to make envelopes and file folders
Mold Made Paper: sheet of paper that simulates a handmade sheet in look, but is made by a slowly rotating machine called a cylinder-mould; the machine was introduced in England in 1895
Parchment: paper that simulates writing surfaces made from animal skins
Rag Paper: paper made from fibers of non-wood origin, including actual cotton rags, cotton linters, cotton or linen pulp. Rag papers contain from 25-100% cotton fiber pulp
Rice Paper: common misnomer applied to lightweight Oriental papers; rice alone cannot produce a sheet of paper so rice (straw) is only occasionally mixed with other fibers in papermaking; the name may be derived from the rice size once used in Japanese papermaking
Shrink Medium: not a paper per say, but a sheet of thin clear or opaque plastic that once heated shrinks in size
Specialty Paper: term for carbonless, pressure-sensitive, synthetic, and other papers made for special applications
Synthetic paper: plastic or other petroleum-based paper
Tissue Paper: thin, translucent, lightweight papers available in many colors
Waterleaf Paper: paper with little or no sizing, like blotter, making it very absorbent; if dampening is desired, this paper can be sprayed with an atomizer
Wove Paper: paper with a uniform unlined surface and smooth finish, generally made on a European style mould with a woven wire surface
Vellum: stiff, translucent paper available in clear, white, marbled, colored or embossed
Velveteen Paper: also called plush or suede paper; paper with velvet feel and nap
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Paper Jargon

Glossaries, Paper Crafts No Comments
Acidity: a state of a substance that contains acid. Paper become acidic from the ingredients used in its manufacture, from the environment or both
Alum: astringent crystalline substance used in rosin sizing to hold paper fibers together and responsible for introducing acid into the paper
Basic Size: standard size of each grade of paper used to calculate basis weight
Basis Weight: weight in pounds of a ream of paper cut to the basic size for its grade
Bast Fibers: refers to a group of fibers commonly used in Japanese papermaking, including flax, gampi, hemp, jute, kozo and mitsumata
Brightness: characteristic of paper referring to how much light it reflects
Buffering: process that gradually neutralizes a paper’ s acidity by adding an alkaline substance, like calcium carbonate, at the pulp stage. Buffering helps reduce the acidity of paper over time
Coated Paper: papers with a finish, glossy or matte. Accepts most inks, markers, and colored pencil, but pigment ink must be embossed
Cold Pressed: mildly textured surfaces produced by pressing the paper through unheated rollers. Generally considered to be a surface between rough and hot pressed
Cut Stock: paper distributor term for paper 11 x 17 or smaller
Deckle: wood frame resting on or hinged to the edges of the mold that defines the edges of the sheet in handmade papermaking. Also strap or board on the wet end of a paper machine that determines the width of the paper web
Deckle Edge: natural, fuzzy edges of handmade papers, simulated in mould-made and machine-made papers by a jet stream of water while the paper is still wet. Handmade papers have 4 deckle edges, while mold-made and machine-made papers usually have two
Dull Finish: characteristic of paper that reflects relatively little light
Durability: degree to which paper retains its original qualities with use
Fibers: slender, thread-like cellulose structures that cohere to form a sheet of paper
Filler: generic term to describe the nonoxidizing clays or minerals added to the pulp at the beater stage to improve paper density
Finishing: term used to describe the cutting, sorting, trimming and packing of paper
Gampi: blast fiber from the gampi tree used in Japanese papermaking to yield a translucent, strong sheet
Gm/m2: metric measure of weight for artist papers. It compares the weights [in grams] of different papers, each occupying one square meter of space, irrespective of individual sheet dimensions. Another way of comparing paper weights is pounds per ream. A 140 lb. paper indicates that a ream [500 sheets] of that particular paper weights 140 lbs
Gloss: characteristic of paper, ink, or varnish that reflects relatively large amounts of light
Grade: one of seven major categories of paper: bond, uncoated book, coated book, text, cover, board, and specialty
Grain: the direction in which fibers are aligned
Grain Direction: direction in which the fibers of machine-made paper lie due to the motion of the machine. When machine-made paper is moistened, the fibers swell more across their width than along their length, so the paper tends to expand at right angles to the machine direction. Handmade and mold-made papers have indistinguishable grain directions
Grain long or grain short: paper whose fibers parallel the long or short dimension of the sheet.
High Alpha: nearly pure form of wood pulp which has the same potential longevity in paper as cotton, linen or other natural fiber
Hot Pressed: smooth, glazed surfaces produced by pressing the paper through hot rollers after formation of the sheet
Kozo: most common fiber used in Japanese papermaking, it comes from the mulberry tree. This is a long, tough fiber that produces strong absorbent sheets
Linter: general term for preprocessed pulp, cotton or wood, purchased in sheet form. Cotton linters are fibers left on the seed after the long fibers have been removed for textile use. They are too short to be spun into cloth but can be cooked and made into paper. Stiffer and more brittle than long-fibered cotton, linters produce a low-shrinkage pulp good for paper casting. They cannot produce a paper with the strength of cotton rag. Wood linters are called hardwood or softwood depending on grade
Mitsumata: bast fiber used in Japanese papermaking that yields a soft, absorbent and lustrous quality
Mold: tool for hand-papermaking, it is a flat screen that filters an even layer of fibers through it to form the sheet. In western papermaking, it is accompanied with a wooden frame called a deckle
Opacity: characteristic of paper that helps prevent printing on one side from showing on the other
Permanence: degree to which paper resists deterioration over time
pH: measure of the hydrogen ion concentration of water solution and substance, denoting acid or alkaline A paper’s pH is measured on a scale from one to fourteen. Seven is neutral. Numbers higher than seven are alkaline and numbers lower than seven are acidic. Papers with a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 are generally considered neutral
Plate Finish: smooth surface found on paper that has been run under a calender machine one or more times
Ply: single web of paper, used by itself or laminated onto one or more additional webs as it is run through the paper machine
Pulp: general term describing the beaten, wet mixture of stock used in making paper, whether its contents are wood, cotton or other fibers
Rags: processed clippings of new cotton remnants from the garment industry for use in high quality papers.
Rough: heavily textured surfaces produced by minimal pressing after sheet formation
Size: material, such as rosin, glue, gelatin, starch, modified cellulose, etc. added to the stock at the pulp stage, or applied to the surface of the paper when dry, to provide resistance to liquid penetration
Sulfite: term for pulp made from wood. Depending on how it is processed for papermaking, it can either be acidic or neutral pH
Surface-Sized: term applied to a paper whose surface has been treated with a sizing material after the sheet is dry or semi-dry
Uncoated Paper: papers with a higher absorbency rate that coated papers and easier to use with most inks, markers, watercolors, and colored pencils
Watermark: design applied to the surface of the paper mold, which causes less pulp to be distributed in that area and results in the transfer of the design to the finished sheet
Web: continuous ribbon of paper, in its full width, during any stage of its progress though the paper machine
Wet Strength: strength of a sheet of paper after it is saturated with water
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Mosaic Jargon

Crafts, Glossaries No Comments
Absorbent Paper: a paper used to make casts of mosaics, when soaked with water it becomes plastic and sticks to mosaic surfaces perfectly
Air-Setting Mortar: a mixture of water, aggregate and a non-hydraulic binder that sets in air but is dissolved by water such as lime or gypsum plaster
Andamento: the direction of the rows of tesserae; horizontal, circular, or sinuous lines
Aventurine: type of glass paste containing sparkling gold colored particles exclusively employed as wall decoration
Background: the area surrounding a figure
Bedding Mortar: a layer of mortar which makes up the foundation of a mural or floor mosaic
Binder: a substance used to bind particles together, ensuring consistency and solidification; the process of setting can be through the loss or absorption of moisture or by a chemical reaction
Burnt Lime: a caustic substance that is prepared by burning calcium carbonate limestone at approximately 900 degrees Celsius; at this high temperatures carbon dioxide is driven off and the limestone is converted to quick lime
Cartoon: the full-size drawing on which the final mosaic is based
Cement Mortar: a mixture of approximately three parts sand to one part Portland cement with water
Chip Mosaic: mosaic formed from irregular chippings of stone
Chopping Machine: used for cutting stone and smalti into tesserae; it has two blades, the bottom one being fixed while the top one is moved by a wheel so that it falls exactly over the fixed blade
Flat Headed Nails: used to help plaster bind to a wall; strong nails with large flat heads
Intarsia: decorative technique in wood or stone in which pieces of different color and equal thickness are cut to the shape according to the design and then attached to a support; also called inlay
Interstice: the space between each tessera that is filled with grout
Mortar: a mixture of binder, aggregate and water that will set hard over a period of time
Pouncing: a technique used to transfer the design on a cartoon directly to the work surface; the design is pricked through along the contours and then pounced with charcoal dust so that the design is left on the surface underneath
Pigment: a substance added to the glass paste or limestone to give it color
Rainbow Style: style of mosaic where the colors of tesserae are arranged in diagonal sequence instead of rows
Rotino: a small grinding wheel turned by hand used for shaping tesserae so that each join together perfectly
Statumen: layer of rubble underneath the mortar bedding for a mosaic pavement
Tessera: the basic unit of mosaic; a small piece of glass or stone, or any other material suitable for mosaic work, cut to a square, rectangular, triangular or other regular shape
Tessellatum: commonly used in the phrase opus tessellatum to distinguish floor mosaic from wall mosaic
Underpainting: a fresco painting on the top plaster coat when the mortar is still damp
Vermiculatum: literally ‘worm like’; commonly used to describe the technique of pictorial mosaics made with minute tesserae
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Metalsmithing Jargon

Crafts, Glossaries No Comments
Annealing: heat treating (softening) of metal after it has been work-hardened with steel tools, and is necessary between raising and forging stages; annealing is also used to remove tension in a piece of metal before brazing to help reduce warping
Brazing: form of soldering that utilizes high temperature alloys to join high temperature metals
Chasing: technique of detailing the front surface of a metal article with various hammer-struck punches
Checking: hammering down onto the edge of a form to strengthen and visually thicken the edge
Crimping: rapid raising process by forming radiating valleys from the center to the outer edge of a metal object then raised
Die Forming: process of stamping or hammering a sheet of metal into a form, which has the outline of the object
Drawbench: narrow, waist-high bench equipped with a chain dragging a pair of draw tongs (large coarse-toothed pliers) used to grip the end of a piece of wire and then pull the wire through a series of consecutively smaller dies (round, square, triangular) reducing its thickness
Engraving: process of cutting shallow lines into metal with a sharp graver, reproducing artwork, which has been drawn on the metal article
Firescale: purple stain that develops in sterling when oxygen penetrates the outer surface of an object during brazing, oxidizing the copper content
Head: short, polished, cast metal mushroom-type stake that fits into a horse and is used for planishing and burnishing metal objects over
Horse: held in a vise, this straight or L-shaped holding devise accommodates various heads
Planishing: act of hammering or refining the surface of a metal object with highly polished hammer faces
Polishing: process of refining a metal surface by use of a polishing wheel attached to a long-spindled motorized arbor that runs at high speed
Raising: technique of forming a flat sheet of metal over a cast iron T-stake or head, forming and compressing the metal to take a hollow form
Repoussé: process used to roughly emboss a metal object from the back or inside with larger punches than those used in chasing
Rolling Mill: hand or motor-driven cast iron mill with polished or patterned hardened steel rollers that reduce the thickness or impart a texture on metal sheet or wire
Scratch Brush: long-spindled motorized arbor using fine wire wheels rotating at slow speed, burnishing the surface of a metal object after soldering; soapy water is used as a lubricant between the wheel and object
Silversmith: one who fashions silver objects and wrought items such as forged flatware
Sinking: hammering of a flat piece of metal into a concave hemispherical shape in the top of a tree stump or any dished form
Snarling: embossing from underneath or inside an object with a long-armed steel tool, with one end placed in a vise
Soldering: low-temperature form of brazing
Spinning: forcing of a flat disc of metal over a profiled steel or wooden form (chuck) with long-handled, polished steel tools
Stake: any polished cast iron or steel tool placed in a vise and is used for forming and planishing metal over
Surface Gauge: vertical steel rod mounted with an adjustable arm fastened to a heavy base
Surface Plate: a perfectly level steel, cast iron or granite table of any dimension; used to check the level and flatness of an object
T-Stake: any polished, cast iron or steel tool in the form of an elongated “T”; used in a vise for raising, forming or planishing metal
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Glue Primer

Crafts, Techniques and Mediums No Comments
2-Way Glue: Interesting glue! If you bond the two surfaces while the glue is wet, you have a permanent bond. If you bond the two surfaces after the glue dries, you have a temporary bond. This liquid glue is used mainly in paper art and craft and with photos.
Craft Glue: Excellent general purpose glue for porous surfaces like paper, wood, and florals. Just like our name, usually less is more with this glue.
Epoxy Glue: This glue usually comes in 2 parts that are mixed. One of the strongest glues for non-porous surfaces or heavy items. Read packaging carefully as you need to work quickly before the glue sets. This is an iffy glue for paper bonding.
Hot Glue: Used when you want super quick tack and hold, but not best if the project will be exposed to extreme heat (the glue will soften and lose its grip) or extreme cold (glue will snap). You are better off with using a tacky glue and a little patience for a project that will be used outside in the winter or summer. Needs a glue gun for application. In this category you’ll find glue guns for hot, low temp, and dual temperature.
Jewelry Glue: Designed to hold a non-porous surface to a porous surface. This glue is also designed to hold heavy items (usually thought of in the jewelry category such as beads, but great for all crafts).
Non-Porous
Surface Glue:
There are glues designed to hold two non-porous surfaces together such on glazed ceramic to glazed ceramic or glass to metal or metal to metal. If possible, give the surface some teeth (sand, scratch the surface to give the glue something to hold on to). Read packaging carefully, these glues usually need to be used in a well-ventilated room. Often labeled as Glass, Ceramic or Tile glue. This glue is not good for any paper use or bonding.
Paper Glue: Thin bodied glue designed not to absorb into the paper. Anymore, this glue is acid-free and archival, but read packaging. You don’t need to use much paper glue to get a good bond. Use a thin line or thin film of this glue for best results.
Tacky Glue: Thicker than craft or paper glues, this glue is best for quick tack or heavier items.
Wood Glue: Believe it or not, glue designed specifically for wood is the best glue to bond wood (painted or unpainted). Just remember it doesn’t dry clear like many colored glues, it will dry pale yellow.
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Floral Jargon

Floral Crafts, Glossaries No Comments
One man’s weed patch, may be another man’s garden. The world of flowers, foliage, and fauna has a language of its own. Here’s some key words to help you understand the seeds of the floral business.
Asymmetrical Balance: informal, natural design, somewhat abstract design
Bouquet: flowers selected and fastened together in a bunch.
Bushes: silk flowers sold with several stems gathered at base.
Composition: the grouping of the various parts that make up the floral arrangement. All parts become part of the whole (arrangement.)
Containers: natural, wood, metal, glass, plastic, pottery, ceramic vases, bowls, boxes, pots, and any other holder for arrangements.
Dried Flowers: through the process of air hanging, desiccants, pressing, or heat flowers and leaves have all moisture removed, preserving as much color, texture, and shape as possible.
Dried Look: silk flowers made to look like dried flowers.
Fillers: smaller and more neutral colored flowers and greenery that serve as background to more showy pieces in design, used to “fill in” between main accent flowers.
Focal Point: the main area of arrangement that the eye will go to, usually a single element. This spot dominates the design. In a symmetrical design the focal point is at center, in a asymmetrical design the focal point is placed toward the high side of arrangement.
Foliage: leaves collectively, artistic grouping of leaves, twigs, flowers, branches, etc.
Free Form: there is no focal point of the arrangement.
Frog: a flower stem holder, any object that is used to hold stems securely in position.
Foundations: natural bare ropes, garland, wreathes, topiary trees, baskets, etc.
Garland: a wreath or rope of flowers and leaves
Greenery: vines, ivies, ferns, or plants.
Handwraps: flower, leaves, and stem of silk flower have been hand wrapped with floral tape.
Harmony: parts of floral arrangement do not conflict with each other, but flow and compliment the design.
Nosegay: a small bunch or grouping of flowers, also called a posy
Oil Dyes: dying process that allows for more realistic coloring and overall effect of silk flowers
Polystem: Flower with solid stem versus a flower with a hand wrapped stem with floral tape.
Potpourri: a collection of flowers, leaves, seeds, spices, oils, and other natural ingredients used for scent and color.
Proportion: the relationship between elements of the arrangement in size, color, quantity, and setting.
Silica gel crystals: crystals used to dry flowers and foliage quickly, a desiccant used to remove moisture. Flowers and crystals are placed in an air tight container and flowers are dried in 3-4 days.
Stem: single flower or foliage.
Symmetrical Balance: formal design, perfect equality, all sides of arrangement match the other sides.
Swag: literally sinks or hangs down by its own weight, a rope or intertwined floral arrangement that hangs down at center.
Texture: refers to the physical surface qualities of the plant or flowers in an arrangement. Smooth, glossy, rough, soft. It can also refer to the size of leaves, twigs, or branches in an arrangement.
Wreath: flowers, twigs, grasses, and/or vines intertwined in a circular or continuous shape.
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Faux Finishes

Glossaries, Painting No Comments
Antiquing: to make a new object look old through various techniques!
Binder: component of paint; acrylics are the binder in latex products and oils in alkyd products
Blending: toning down imprints or hue of glaze or paint by sponge brush or clothe to get softer effect or to combine different colors on a surface
Bronze Powders: fine metallic powders from gold to copper
Chisel: tool used to shave edges off wood
Crackle Glaze: the appearance of old paint that has cracked and peeled to reveal a different color of paint underneath.
Crackle Varnish: the finish or varnished layer appears cracked and aged Criss-crossing: applying paint or glaze smoothly and evenly over surface by working top to bottom and then side to side on a surface.
Distressing: deliberately inflicting dents and knocks unto a new surfaces; also accomplished with over sanding.
Dragging: applying glaze and removing some of the glaze by sweeping with metal graining comb, dry brush, or feathers.
Eggshell Finish: slight sheen, reflects low amounts of light Flat Finish: no sheen or gloss; will not reflect light, very porous
Flogging: glaze is manipulated by striking surface with a long bristled brush
Gesso: thick chalky liquid, medium that is smooth and porous, absorbs color, allows for texture and design
Gilding: the application of gold, silver, or other metal leaf to a surface
Glaze: transparent coat of paint that is thinly brushed or sponged over a basecoat or raw surface
Gloss Finish: shiny with luster, reflects light; note that Semi-Gloss less sheen that gloss.
Gold Leaf: Gold and other metals on a thin sheet of a transfer paper for gilding or foiling
High Gloss Finish: the most reflective of all finishes, looks almost like a glass layer over surface
Intarsia: highly developed form of wood inlay
Liming: Wood surfaces are stripped and treated with a limewash for protection
Liquid Gold: bronze powder suspended in medium, must be shaken before use.
Luster Powders: powders containing mica to give luster
Matte: dulled finish, no gloss or luster
Milk Paint: paint made from curds with tint added to taste.
Satin Finish: higher sheen that eggshell, but not shiny like a gloss
Spattering: flicking paint off a brush onto another surface to distress or age.
Sponging: applying paint with sponge for effect or texture
Sponging Out: soaking up paint with a sponge or paper towel to remove areas of pigment for effect
Stains: transparent liquids which allow base surface to show through color.
Stippling: dry brushing paint to surface for highlights and shading with short light dabs
Tooth: to give surface a dull finish usually by sanding; helps paint adhere to a glossy surface
Variegated Wash: different colors have been used in a way to run into each other
Verdigris: bluish green patina formed on copper, brass, and bronze by corrosion of air and saltwater.
Wash: thinned paint for transparent basecoating or aging
Working Dry: adding glaze or paint to dry glaze or paint
Working Wet: adding glaze or paint to wet glaze or paint; also referred to as wet on wet
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