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	<title>Think Crafts Blog - Craft Ideas and Projects - CreateForLess &#187; Glossaries</title>
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	<description>Think Crafts Blog - Craft, Scrapbooking and Sewing Ideas, Projects and Tips by Maria Nerius, the Expert Craft Advice Columnist at CreateForLess.</description>
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		<title>Embellishing with Anything Book Review</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2010/10/20/embellishing-with-anything-book-review/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2010/10/20/embellishing-with-anything-book-review/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Oct 2010 12:23:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Anitra</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[October is National Book Month and we’re celebrating by slashing prices on selected project idea books. Choose from a wide variety of paper craft, quilting, home décor and craft books at our National Book Month Sale. By Recycled Crafts Contributor, Anitra from the blog “Coffee Pot People”. All right, there&#8217;s no point in beating around the bush [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p style="text-align: left;"><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">October is National Book Month and we’re celebrating by slashing prices on selected project idea books. Choose from a wide variety of </span></strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/Book+Sale/Paper+Craft+Books/a!2,aid!18882-inf-/search.aspx?SH=RD0xNX5HPTU2MTIyXjF_ST1QcmljZX5LPTR_TD0xfk09Mjl_Tj0yfg&amp;SI=f26d3e09-fa0d-47d1-9237-fe3182792861"><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">paper craft</span></strong></a><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">, </span></strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/Book+Sale/Quilt+Books/a!2,aid!18723-inf-/search.aspx?SH=RD0xNX5HPTU2MTIyXjF_ST1QcmljZX5LPTR_TD0xfk09Mjl_Tj00fg&amp;SI=f26d3e09-fa0d-47d1-9237-fe3182792861"><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">quilting</span></strong></a><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">, </span></strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/Book+Sale/Home+Decor+Books/a!2,aid!18731-inf-/search.aspx?SH=RD0xNX5HPTU2MTIyXjF_ST1QcmljZX5LPTR_TD0xfk09Mjl_Tj02fg&amp;SI=f26d3e09-fa0d-47d1-9237-fe3182792861"><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">home décor</span></strong></a><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;"> and </span></strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/Book+Sale/Craft+Books/a!2,aid!18749-inf-/search.aspx?SH=RD0xNX5HPTU2MTIyXjF_ST1QcmljZX5LPTR_TD0xfk09Mjl_Tj04fg&amp;SI=f26d3e09-fa0d-47d1-9237-fe3182792861"><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">craft books</span></strong></a><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;"> at our National Book Month Sale.</span></strong></p>
<p>By Recycled Crafts Contributor, Anitra from the blog <strong><a title="Coffee Pot People" onclick="javascript:_gaq.push(['_trackEvent','outbound-article','coffee-pot-people.blogspot.com']);" href="http://coffee-pot-people.blogspot.com/" target="_self">“Coffee Pot People”.</a></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.createforless.com/C_and_T+Publishing+Embellishing+With+Anything+Book/pid150985.aspx" target="_self"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-7309" title="01-Cover (1)" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/01-Cover-1.jpg" alt="" width="328" height="448" /></a></span></strong></p>
<p>All right, there&#8217;s no point in beating around the bush here: I LOVE this book.</p>
<p>I ordered it because the subtitle mentioned ATCs (Artist Trading Cards), an art form I have just begun to explore, and because the main title said <a href="http://www.createforless.com/C_and_T+Publishing+Embellishing+With+Anything+Book/pid150985.aspx" target="_self"><strong>Embellishing with Anything</strong></a>. I am all Over that! And it didn&#8217;t hurt anything at all that the cover art was beautiful and interesting. (The author is Gladys Love, and the book is published by <a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=%20C%26T%20Publishing" target="_self"><strong>C&amp;T Publishing</strong></a>.)</p>
<p>When the book arrived, I fairly flew through the pages, exclaiming at the pictures and promising myself, &#8220;I&#8217;m going to try that!&#8221;</p>
<p>Here&#8217;s a look at the blurb on the back:</p>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/02-Blurb.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-7310" title="02-Blurb" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/02-Blurb.jpg" alt="" width="425" height="259" /></a> </p>
<p>A look at the table of contents gives you the next hint at what lies between the covers:</p>
<ul>
<li>7 pages explaining 9 techniques</li>
<li>7 pages of &#8220;Ephemera from Everywhere&#8221;, including sushi wrap, bark, clothing labels, and even a dragonfly skeleton</li>
<li>6pages on fabric beads</li>
<li>54 pages of instructions on creating 17 projects</li>
<li>5 gallery pages showing other artists&#8217; works</li>
</ul>
<p>Here are pictures of a few things in the book:</p>
<div class="mceTemp mceIEcenter">
<div id="attachment_7312" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 435px"><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/03-Felted-beads1.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-7312" title="03-Felted-beads" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/03-Felted-beads1.jpg" alt="" width="425" height="245" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Felted Beads</p></div>
</div>
<p> </p>
<dl></dl>
<p style="text-align: center;">  <a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/04-Buttonhole-stitch-1.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-7313  aligncenter" title="04-Buttonhole-stitch (1)" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/04-Buttonhole-stitch-1.jpg" alt="" width="319" height="265" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/Computer-printed-ATCs.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-7314  aligncenter" title="Computer-printed-ATCs" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/Computer-printed-ATCs.jpg" alt="" width="376" height="370" /></a></p>
<div class="mceTemp mceIEcenter">
<div id="attachment_7321" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 301px"><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/Gingko-wall-hanging1.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-7321" title="Gingko-wall-hanging" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/Gingko-wall-hanging1.jpg" alt="" width="291" height="402" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Gingko Wall Hanging</p></div>
</div>
<p style="text-align: center;">
<div id="attachment_7316" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 300px"><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/Ladybug-ATC.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-7316" title="Ladybug-ATC" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/Ladybug-ATC.jpg" alt="" width="290" height="412" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Ladybug ATC</p></div>
<p style="text-align: left;"> This is one of those books I know I will go back to again and again and again, and I know I will find something I&#8217;d missed previously or had forgotten about, something new to try, something that will inspire me all over again.</p>
<p><a class="a2a_dd a2a_target addtoany_share_save" href="http://www.addtoany.com/share_save#url=http%3A%2F%2Fthinkcrafts.com%2Fblog%2F2010%2F10%2F20%2Fembellishing-with-anything-book-review%2F&amp;title=Embellishing%20with%20Anything%20Book%20Review" id="wpa2a_2"><img src="http://thinkcrafts.com/wp-content/plugins/add-to-any/share_save_256_24.png" width="256" height="24" alt="Share"/></a></p>]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Bottle Art Book Review</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2010/10/17/bottle-art-book-review/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2010/10/17/bottle-art-book-review/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 17 Oct 2010 15:46:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Anitra</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Green Crafting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[book sale]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bootle art book]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bottle art book review]]></category>
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		<category><![CDATA[jewelry]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jewelry Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jewelry Making]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[national book month]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[recycled crafts]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/?p=7289</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[There's an expression I use from time to time, "A good idea poorly executed." I'm going to be honest here, and say that as I turned the pages of this book, I found it running through my head fairly often. Tastes differ, of course, but a lot of the projects shown just looked, well, not too great to me.

Having said that, I'll also say I like this book. A lot.
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">October is National Book Month and we’re celebrating by slashing prices on selected project idea books. Choose from a wide variety of <a href="http://www.createforless.com/Book+Sale/Paper+Craft+Books/a!2,aid!18882-inf-/search.aspx?SH=RD0xNX5HPTU2MTIyXjF_ST1QcmljZX5LPTR_TD0xfk09Mjl_Tj0yfg&amp;SI=f26d3e09-fa0d-47d1-9237-fe3182792861">paper craft</a>, <a href="http://www.createforless.com/Book+Sale/Quilt+Books/a!2,aid!18723-inf-/search.aspx?SH=RD0xNX5HPTU2MTIyXjF_ST1QcmljZX5LPTR_TD0xfk09Mjl_Tj00fg&amp;SI=f26d3e09-fa0d-47d1-9237-fe3182792861">quilting</a>, <a href="http://www.createforless.com/Book+Sale/Home+Decor+Books/a!2,aid!18731-inf-/search.aspx?SH=RD0xNX5HPTU2MTIyXjF_ST1QcmljZX5LPTR_TD0xfk09Mjl_Tj02fg&amp;SI=f26d3e09-fa0d-47d1-9237-fe3182792861">home décor</a> and <a href="http://www.createforless.com/Book+Sale/Craft+Books/a!2,aid!18749-inf-/search.aspx?SH=RD0xNX5HPTU2MTIyXjF_ST1QcmljZX5LPTR_TD0xfk09Mjl_Tj04fg&amp;SI=f26d3e09-fa0d-47d1-9237-fe3182792861">craft books</a> at our <a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=Book%20Sale" target="_self">National Book Month Sale</a>!</span></strong></p>
<p>By Recycled Crafts Contributor, Anitra from the blog <strong><a title="Coffee Pot People" onclick="javascript:_gaq.push(['_trackEvent','outbound-article','coffee-pot-people.blogspot.com']);" href="http://coffee-pot-people.blogspot.com/" target="_self">“Coffee Pot People”.</a></strong></p>
<div id="attachment_7290" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 323px"><a href="http://www.createforless.com/Design+Originals+Bottle+Art+Book/pid176017.aspx"><img class="size-full wp-image-7290" title="01-Cover" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/01-Cover.jpg" alt="" width="313" height="415" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Design Originals Bottle Art Book</p></div>
<p><a href="http://www.createforless.com/Design+Originals+Bottle+Art+Book/pid176017.aspx" target="_self"><strong>Design Originals Bottle Art Book</strong></a> &#8211; There&#8217;s an expression I use from time to time, &#8220;A good idea poorly executed.&#8221; I&#8217;m going to be honest here, and say that as I turned the pages of this book, I found it running through my head fairly often. Tastes differ, of course, but a lot of the projects shown just looked, well, <em>not too great </em>to me.</p>
<p>Having said that, I&#8217;ll also say I like this book. A lot.</p>
<p>Why? First, because some the projects really are pretty. And second, because it takes one simple medium&#8211;bottles&#8211;and turns it into&#8230;uh&#8230;wait a minute&#8230;counting here&#8230;at least eighteen different types of art. You can use the instructions in this book to make:</p>
<div id="attachment_7291" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 268px"><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/02-Wind-chiimes.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-7291" title="02-Wind-chiimes" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/02-Wind-chiimes.jpg" alt="" width="258" height="430" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Wind Chimes</p></div>
<div id="attachment_7292" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 386px"><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/03-Earrings.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-7292" title="03-Earrings" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/03-Earrings.jpg" alt="" width="376" height="258" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Earrings</p></div>
<div id="attachment_7293" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 393px"><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/04-A-variety-of-jewelry.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-7293" title="04-A-variety-of-jewelry" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/04-A-variety-of-jewelry.jpg" alt="" width="383" height="248" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">A Variety of Jewelry Even black boards</p></div>
<p>There are also instructions for making photo holders, light catchers, terrariums, candle holders, goblets and tumblers, vases, bells, and decorated bottles.</p>
<p>Even better, when the author instructs you to use a technique, she doesn&#8217;t assume you know how. She has instructions for soldering a frame around a piece of glass, for cutting bottles into slices, for firing in a kiln (and for the first time, I want one!), working with polymer clay, and more.</p>
<p><em><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/06-Some-how-tos.jpg"></a></em>In short, I think this book is well worth the purchase price, and that just about anyone is going to find it a very useful addition to his/her crafting library. Hope you will, too!</p>
<div id="attachment_7296" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 242px"><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/06-Some-how-tos1.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-7296" title="06-Some-how-to's" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/06-Some-how-tos1.jpg" alt="" width="232" height="670" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Showing some how-to instructions</p></div>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<title>Making Decals</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2010/09/22/making-decals/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2010/09/22/making-decals/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 22 Sep 2010 19:11:50 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Anitra</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crafts]]></category>
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		<description><![CDATA[Collage, in both “hard copy” and digital forms is very popular right now, and I’m a fan of both. It’s relaxing, almost zen-like to sit with my materials, arranging, rearranging, and layering them. Digitally, I love the fact that you can create what are basically transparent layers, which is mostly not an option with “real” images and materials.

Except that it is, at least with printed items. You can make decals, and it’s really quite easy to do it. I’m familiar with two products you can use, Liquitex Gloss Medium, and Omni-Gel. The process is the same with both products.
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>By Recycled Crafts Contributor, Anitra from the blog <strong><a title="Coffee Pot People" onclick="javascript:_gaq.push(['_trackEvent','outbound-article','coffee-pot-people.blogspot.com']);" href="http://coffee-pot-people.blogspot.com/" target="_self">“Coffee Pot People”.</a></strong>  </p>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/09/01a-Cabochons.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-6742" title="01a-Cabochons" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/09/01a-Cabochons.jpg" alt="" width="378" height="324" /></a></p>
<p>Collage, in both &#8220;hard copy&#8221; and digital forms is very popular right now, and I’m a fan of both. It&#8217;s relaxing, almost zen-like to sit with my materials, arranging, re-arranging, and layering them. Digitally, I love the fact that you can create what are basically transparent layers, which is mostly not an option with &#8220;real&#8221; images and materials.</p>
<p>Except that it is, at least with printed items. You can make decals, and it’s really quite easy to do it. I&#8217;m familiar with two products you can use, Liquitex Gloss Medium, and Omni-Gel. The process is the same with both products.</p>
<p>You’ll need:</p>
<p>Omni-Gel OR Liquitex Gloss Medium<br />
<a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=paint%20brush" target="_self"><strong>Soft paint brush</strong></a><br />
Printed images—almost any will work, except for inkjet or photographs<br />
A dish that is larger than your print(s)<br />
Water</p>
<p>So first decide what images you want to use. Cut them out, leaving a generous edge around any that you want to completely cover the collage surface. Protect your work surface with plastic wrap, which will let you peel the finished decals/transfers off when they’ve dried, and lay the images print side up on it. Paint each image with a coat of the medium, allowing the medium to extend beyond the paper just a bit, and let dry. I usually just squeeze a drop or two of medium on the image and spread it around.</p>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/09/01-Paint-on-Transfer-Medium.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-6743" title="01-Paint-on-Transfer-Medium" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/09/01-Paint-on-Transfer-Medium.jpg" alt="" width="372" height="317" /></a></p>
<p>When the medium is dry, spread on another layer. If you’ve painted with up-and-down strokes on the first layer, make the second layer’s strokes go side-to-side. Let that layer dry, and paint on a third layer, again with brush strokes that go in a different direction than the layer before.</p>
<p>Three layers of medium is generally enough; I sometimes do four, but it probably isn’t necessary.  You’ll now have what looks and feels like a picture coated with a plastic sheet.</p>
<p>When the last layer is thoroughly dry, peel your images off the plastic and soak them in the dish of water. (If an image resists being peeled off, you can cut right at the edge of the paper, and slip your finger between the picture and the plastic.) Don’t worry if the transfer medium turns a little milky while soaking.</p>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/09/02-Soak-Images.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-6744" title="02-Soak-Images" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/09/02-Soak-Images.jpg" alt="" width="415" height="307" /></a></p>
<p>Soak the pictures until the paper is good and wet, but not more than twenty minutes, then take each one out of the water and lay it face-down on a clean, smooth surface—a plate works well.</p>
<p>Rub the paper with your fingers, and it will roll up and come away from the transfer.</p>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/09/03-Rub-Off-Paper.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-6745" title="03-Rub-Off-Paper" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/09/03-Rub-Off-Paper.jpg" alt="" width="424" height="313" /></a></p>
<p>Rub until ALL the paper is gone. You’ll know you’re finished when you don’t feel any fuzziness at all, and the transfer is completely transparent.</p>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/09/04-Decal-Transparency.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-6746" title="04-Decal-Transparency" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/09/04-Decal-Transparency.jpg" alt="" width="395" height="355" /></a></p>
<p>You now have a decal!</p>
<p>To use it, just paint the back with more of the transfer medium, and apply it wherever you like on your project. Make sure your fingers are absolutely clean—any little bit of anything will imbed itself and show later!</p>
<p>One of the things I love about the finished decal is that it’s <em>stretchy</em>. You can cover uneven surfaces, or pull the image around the edges of a plaque, and smooth it out completely, as you can see from the little project below:</p>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/09/05-My-Singing-Bird.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-6747" title="05-My-Singing-Bird" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/09/05-My-Singing-Bird.jpg" alt="" width="387" height="421" /></a></p>
<p>To make it, I used three images I’d turned into decals—the background trees (<a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=scrapbooking%20%26%20paper%20crafts%20%20Designer%20Paper" target="_self"><strong>scrapbooking paper</strong></a><strong>),</strong> the blue bird (cut from a magazine), and the bit of music (from an old music book). As you can see, the plaque I used had a crenellated edge, and a raised circle about 1/2&#8243;. The transfer stretched over every irregularity and clung there. On the back, I just squished the gathered edge down and used a bit more medium to glue them in place.</p>
<p>You can also use the transfer medium to create pendants. The first image in this post doesn’t give you scale, but each piece is a half-globe in shape, with a transfer stretched over it. The half-globes were molded in measuring spoons—1/4 teaspoon, 1/2 teaspoon, and 1 teaspoon—so they’re quite a nice size to glue on a bail and put on a necklace or bracelet.</p>
]]></content:encoded>
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		<item>
		<title>Jewelry Making Jargon</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/07/24/jewelry-making-jargon-2/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/07/24/jewelry-making-jargon-2/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Jul 2008 23:35:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jewelry Making]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jewelry Crafts]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/jewelry-making-jargon-2/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Texture: refers to the physical surface qualities of the plant or flowers in an arrangement. Smooth, glossy, rough, soft. It can also refer to the size of leaves, twigs, or branches in an arrangement. Wreath: flowers, twigs, grasses, and/or vines intertwined in a circular or continuous shape. Alloy: metal made up of a mixture of [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<table border="0" cellPadding="3" cellSpacing="0">
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Texture:</strong></td>
<td>refers to the physical surface qualities of the plant or flowers in an arrangement. Smooth, glossy, rough, soft. It can also refer to the size of leaves, twigs, or branches in an arrangement.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Wreath:</strong></td>
<td>flowers, twigs, grasses, and/or vines intertwined in a circular or continuous shape.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Alloy: </strong></td>
<td>metal made up of a mixture of two or more different metals. Common examples of alloys include bronze (a mixture of copper and tin), brass (copper and zinc), and pewter (tin with antimony, copper and sometimes lead</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Annealed: </strong></td>
<td>softened by heat</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bail: </strong></td>
<td>metal triangle used to attach a bead or a pendant to a necklace</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Baroque: </strong></td>
<td>irregular, rounded stone, glass or bead</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Base Metal: </strong></td>
<td>non-precious metals used as a core for plating and gold-filled items; brass and nickel are common base metals in jewelry</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bead Loom: </strong></td>
<td>wood or plastic frame used to stretch warp threads for bead weaving</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bead Tip: </strong></td>
<td>jewelry finding used for attaching thread to a clasp. A knot sits inside a small concave shape attached to a bent metal loop</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Beeswax: </strong></td>
<td>used to strengthen and smooth beading thread</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bell Cap: </strong></td>
<td>jewelry finding used to convert a bead or stone with no hole into a pendant using glue</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bib: </strong></td>
<td>necklace that fits close to the base of the neck and extends over the chest in the shape of child&#8217;s bib</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Burr: </strong></td>
<td>roughness left by a tool in cutting wire or metal</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cabochon: </strong></td>
<td>a round or oval stone, cut and polished with one flat side (the back) and one smooth domed side (the front or face); afaceted cabochon is cut with faceted surfaces around the edge of the stone</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Catches: </strong></td>
<td>used for necklaces and bracelets to attach or clasp one end to the other end</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Choker: </strong></td>
<td>short necklace, usually 15 inches long, fitting snugly at the base of the neck</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Coil: </strong></td>
<td>flat spiral of wire or metal</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Crimp Bead: </strong></td>
<td>small, soft metal beads that are squeezed shut to secure loops of threading material fasteners onto clasps</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Dog collar: </strong></td>
<td>wide choker, worn tightly around the neck</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Drop: </strong></td>
<td>attachment to jewelry that allows bead or metal to dangle away from the main line of the jewelry piece</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Eyepin: </strong></td>
<td>wire finding with a loop at one end. used for linking beads or beaded links together</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Facet: </strong></td>
<td>flat, polished surface cut into a stone or bead</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Findings: </strong></td>
<td>as in jewelry findings, head pins, eye pins, fastenings, brooch and earring fittings, and more</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Gauge: </strong></td>
<td>measure of dimension</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Gold: </strong></td>
<td>yellow colored, soft, shiny metal commonly used in jewelry. The purity of gold is measured in &#8220;karats.&#8221; 24 karat (or 24k) denotes pure or fine gold; 12k is 50% gold; 14k is about 58% gold. Gold that is less than 24k is actually an alloy</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Gold-filled: </strong></td>
<td>thin layer of gold bonded to a base metal core. In gold-filled products, the gold layer must be at least 1/20th (5%) of the overall product, by weight</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Gold-plated: </strong></td>
<td>very thin layer of gold bonded to a base metal core</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Hat Pin: </strong></td>
<td>very straight, often long eye pin with a sharp end, which usually has a back or cover. Originally used to help the ladies keep on their hats, modern use is ornamental rather than functional. Most of pin is exposed to the eye</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Head Pin: </strong></td>
<td>also known as eye pins; long wires with a flattened end, used for basic component in many bead style earrings or for attaching beads to any type of jewelry piece</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Hoop: </strong></td>
<td>circular earrings</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Jump Rings: </strong></td>
<td>small metal rings used to attach necklace fastenings and to join metal lines</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Knot: </strong></td>
<td>knots are formed to each side of bead to separate, space, or secure</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Lampwork: </strong></td>
<td>technique for making glass beads by hand. A glass rod or cane is held into a flame or &#8220;lamp&#8221; and wound around a mandrel. The bead is shaped or smoothed by rotating the mandrel through the flame</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Lapel Pin: </strong></td>
<td>also known as a bar pin; eye pin is bent to form clasp, is threaded, and then bent again to hold beads in place and form a pin back; back of pin not exposed to the eye</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Lapidary: </strong></td>
<td>cutting, shaping, polishing and creating jewelry from precious and semi-precious stones</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Lavaliere: </strong></td>
<td>necklace with a drop of a single stone suspended from a chain</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Loaf: </strong></td>
<td>block of clay with a pattern throughout; usually a square shape</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Log: </strong></td>
<td>roll of clay that is thicker than a cane</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Matinee: </strong></td>
<td>necklace 24 to 26 inches long; in Europe, 30 to 35 inches</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Opera: </strong></td>
<td>necklace 28 to 30 inches long; in Europe, 48 to 90 inches, can extend to 120 inches</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Opacity: </strong></td>
<td>quality of not allowing light to pass through (the quality of being opaque)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Opaque: </strong></td>
<td>not allowing light to pass through; solid</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Paste: </strong></td>
<td>jewelry made of glass imitating faceted gemstones</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Pendant: </strong></td>
<td>main bead or other &#8220;show&#8221; piece that is dropped from a necklace</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Princess: </strong></td>
<td>necklace 20 to 21 inches long</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rope: </strong></td>
<td>string of beads, pearls, stones used to form a bracelet or necklace</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sautoir: </strong></td>
<td>long necklace popular in the 1920s; usually made of chains, beads, or pearls and ending in a tassel or fringe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Silver: </strong></td>
<td>white colored, soft, shiny metal, commonly used in jewelry. Like gold, silver is available in different levels of purity: the purest form, <strong><em>Fine</em></strong> silver, is 99.9% silver; <strong><em>Sterling</em></strong> silver is 92.5% silver, with other metals (usually copper) making up the remaining 7.5%; <strong><em>Coin</em></strong> silver is 90% silver with 10% copper. Nickel silver is an alloy of copper (65%), nickel and zinc &#8211; no silver at all</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Silver-plated: </strong></td>
<td>a very thin layer of silver bonded to a base metal core</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Split Ring: </strong></td>
<td>small base metal finding resembling a key-ring</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Stud: </strong></td>
<td>as in earring, simple earring with no drops</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Torsade: </strong></td>
<td>combination of several strands of pearls, chains, or beads twisted together into a single necklace</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Translucent: </strong></td>
<td>allowing some light to pass through; objects seen through translucent material are diffused or indistinct</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Transparent: </strong></td>
<td>easily seen through; allowing light to pass through without obscuring the ability to see objects on the other side</td>
</tr>
</table>
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		<item>
		<title>Woodworking Jargon</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/woodworking-jargon/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/woodworking-jargon/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 23:54:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[blog craft ideas]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[blog crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[blogs with craft ideas]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft terms]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft trends]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft wood]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[createforless craft ideas]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[createforless craft projects]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[DIY Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Mediums blog craft]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wood working]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[woodworking]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/woodworking-jargon/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Arris: the sharp corner formed by the meeting of two adjacent surfaces of a board Astragal: narrow, half-round molding Backlash: slack or play in the adjustment mechanism of the plane Baller: tool used to round over the end of a dowel Barefaced Joint: joint in which one or more of its shoulders are eliminated Bead: [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<table border="0" cellPadding="3" cellSpacing="0">
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Arris: </strong></td>
<td>the sharp corner formed by the meeting of two adjacent surfaces of a board</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Astragal: </strong></td>
<td>narrow, half-round molding</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Backlash: </strong></td>
<td>slack or play in the adjustment mechanism of the plane</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Baller: </strong></td>
<td>tool used to round over the end of a dowel</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Barefaced Joint: </strong></td>
<td>joint in which one or more of its shoulders are eliminated</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bead: </strong></td>
<td>traditional decoration often used with a tongue-and- groove joint to hide the gap between the boards</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bedding Angle: </strong></td>
<td>angle at which the frog or bed of the plane holds the plane iron</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bench Planes: </strong></td>
<td>planes used to smooth the face and edges of a board</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bevel: </strong></td>
<td>angle other than 90 degrees; inside surface that is sharpened on a plane blade, chisel, or other cutting tool; tool used to mark angles; it consists of a stock or handle and an adjustable blade and the edge of the stock rests against the edge of a board and the blade rests across the face: also called a bevel square or sliding T bevel</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bow: </strong></td>
<td>distortion in a board that causes the face to curve from end to end. If you place the face of a bowed board on a flat surface the center of the board will rest on the surface while the ends are above the surface</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Block Planes: </strong></td>
<td>small planes that fit into the palm of your hand used primarily for trimming</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Block Cushion Grainer: </strong></td>
<td>wood-graining tool used to mechanically reproduce wood grains; it has a rubber face that is covered with concentric, semi-circular grooves</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Boxing: </strong></td>
<td>process of adding a new piece of wood to the front of the mouth of the plane</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Burnished surface: </strong></td>
<td>surface that has a smooth, polished look</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cabinet scraper: </strong></td>
<td>scraper with a cast-iron body that holds a scraper blade</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Camber: </strong></td>
<td>slight convexity, arch, or curvature</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cambium: </strong></td>
<td>layer of cells just beneath the bark of a tree where new growth occurs</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Carcass: </strong></td>
<td>basic box or frame of a cabinet</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Chalking: </strong></td>
<td>dusty film of pigments left on the surface of weathered paint</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Chamfer: </strong></td>
<td>beveled cut on an edge</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cheek: </strong></td>
<td>part of the joint that is parallel with the face or edge</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Clearance angle: </strong></td>
<td>angle formed between the work and the underside of the cutting edge of the blade</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Closed-grain: </strong></td>
<td>wood with no easily discernible pore structure; does not require filling to achieve a smooth finish</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Combination Plane: </strong></td>
<td>any plane that can be used for more than one job</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Common Pitch: </strong></td>
<td>refers to a plane iron held at 45 degrees to the work by the frog or bed</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Compass Plane: </strong></td>
<td>plane used to make convex or concave shapes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Corner: </strong></td>
<td>on a board the corner is the place where the face, edge and end meet</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Crook: </strong></td>
<td>distortion in the edge of a board that causes the edge to curve from end to end; when the edge is placed on a flat surface the center of the edge will touch the surface while the ends are above the surface</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cove: </strong></td>
<td>concave molding cut into the edge of the board</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Crosscutting: </strong></td>
<td>process of cutting a board at approximately a right angle to the grain direction</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cutting Angle: </strong></td>
<td>angle formed between the work and the top of the blade</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Dado: </strong></td>
<td>flat bottomed recess cut into the face of a board across the grain</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Dress: </strong></td>
<td>improve or smooth the surface of the wood</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Dust Nibs: </strong></td>
<td>tiny bumps in a finished surface caused by dust particles landing on the wet finish</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Edges: </strong></td>
<td>the narrowest surfaces of a board that are approximately parallel with the grain direction</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Edge-Grain Wood: </strong></td>
<td>term applied to quarter-sawed wood, particularly softwood</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Ends: </strong></td>
<td>narrowest surfaces of a board that are approximately perpendicular with the grain direction</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>End Grain: </strong></td>
<td>wood surface that has been cut at a 90&#8243; angle to the length of the cells, often the end of a piece of lumber; end grain absorbs finishing material to a greater degree than other wood surfaces because open-cell cavities are exposed at the surface</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Face: </strong></td>
<td>the four surfaces of a board that are approximately parallel to the grain; or the two widest surfaces of a board also called sides; or the widest surface of a board with the least number of defects is sometimes called the best face or select face</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Filler Stick: </strong></td>
<td>wax-based wood putty in stick form available in a variety of colors and frequently used to fill nail holes after a finish has been applied</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fillet: </strong></td>
<td>flat section on a molding used to separate a section of the molding</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Filling: </strong></td>
<td>process of packing the pores of open-grained wood with filler to create a smooth surface.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fish Eyes: </strong></td>
<td>small, round depressions in a finished surface; frequently caused by contamination of the finish with silicones</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Flat: </strong></td>
<td>finished surface with no gloss</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fluting: </strong></td>
<td>decorative molding that is frequently used as a decoration on table legs</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fore Plane: </strong></td>
<td>plane about 18 inches long used to surface or dress rough lumber</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Grain: </strong></td>
<td>orientation of the fibers in the wood, or a term used to describe the visible pattern of pores and growth rings on a board; pattern produced by the annual rings in a piece of wood; also refers to the direction of the wood fibers</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Grinding: </strong></td>
<td>coarse wearing away of a softer material by the abrasive actions of a harder material</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Grit: </strong></td>
<td>abrasive particles used in coated abrasives</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Groove: </strong></td>
<td>a flat-bottomed recess cut into the face of a board with the grain</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Gutter Plane: </strong></td>
<td>plane with a convex sole and iron that can be used to make large architectural moldings such as the cove molding</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Hand Scraper: </strong></td>
<td>simple scraper that consists of a steel blade that is held in your hands</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Hardwood: </strong></td>
<td>wood derived from broad-leafed trees; has no relation to the actual hardness of the wood</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Heartwood: </strong></td>
<td>wood from the center portion of the log. It is generally darker and more decay-resistant than the younger sapwood</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>High spots: </strong></td>
<td>areas of the board that are thicker or wider than the rest of the board</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Honing: </strong></td>
<td>giving a keen edge to a plane iron</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Jack Plane: </strong></td>
<td>a plane 12 to 17 inches long that is used to remove saw marks from lumber and cut down high spots</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Jointer: </strong></td>
<td>a plane 22 to 36 inches long that is designed to make an edge straight and square with the face of the board</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Jointing: </strong></td>
<td>making an edge straight and square with the face of the board</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Kerf: </strong></td>
<td>a cut made in a board with a saw.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Knot: </strong></td>
<td>the intersection between a limb and the trunk of a tree that shows up in sawed lumber as a round, oval, or spike shaped area that is darker and harder than the surrounding wood</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Length: </strong></td>
<td>the dimension of a board running parallel with the grain</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Match Planes: </strong></td>
<td>planes used to make tongue-and-groove joints; these planes are used in pairs: one plane cuts the tongue and the other plane cuts the groove</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Microbevels: </strong></td>
<td>small, secondary bevels at the tip of the plane iron</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Mill Marks: </strong></td>
<td>marks left by a planer that give the surface of a board a wavy appearance</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Mitre Joint: </strong></td>
<td>a joint that is cut at an angle; when two boards meet at 90 degrees, the mitre angle is 45 degree</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Mortise and Tenon Joint: </strong></td>
<td>a joint in which a projection called a tenon on one board fits into a pocket called a mortise in the other board</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Ogee: </strong></td>
<td>a molding with an S-shaped profile</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Open Grain: </strong></td>
<td>the appearance of wood with large, visible pores that must be filled with paste filler to achieve a smooth surface; there are two types of open-grained wood: ring-porous and diffuse-porous: ring-porous woods like oak and ash have large pores at the beginning of each annual ring and diffuse porous wood like Philippine mahogany have large pores evenly distributed throughout the wood</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Particle Board: </strong></td>
<td>a man-made reconstituted wood product that is made from very small wood chips or particles bonded together with glue under heat and pressure</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Patina: </strong></td>
<td>the condition of a wood and its finish that develops over time; it is characterized by a smooth, worn surface and darkening of the wood; also includes the build-up of waxes and oils that have been applied to wood over time and the scars and marks that are acquired through use</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Pointer: </strong></td>
<td>a tool used to taper the end of a dowel.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Pores: </strong></td>
<td>small openings in the surface of a board</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>PSI: </strong></td>
<td>Pounds per Square Inch; a way to measure the pressure of compressed air</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Quarter-Sawed: </strong></td>
<td>wood that has been cut so that the annual rings form an angle of 45&#8243; to 90&#8243; with the surface; also called edge-grain, vertical-grain, or quarter-sawn</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Quirk: </strong></td>
<td>the small groove that defines the edges of the bead</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Radius Plane: </strong></td>
<td>a plane used to round or chamfer the edges of a board</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Raised Grain: </strong></td>
<td>a condition that occurs when water causes wood fibers to swell so that some stand above the surface of the board</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rake Angle: </strong></td>
<td>the angle formed between the top of the cutting edge and a line perpendicular to the work surface</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rank Setting: </strong></td>
<td>the setting of a plane iron (blade) that will make a heavy cut</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Reed: </strong></td>
<td>a series of beads cut side by side</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Ripping: </strong></td>
<td>the process of cutting a board approximately parallel to the grain.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rotary-Cut: </strong></td>
<td>wood that is cut by rotating a log against a fixed knife to produce a continuous sheet</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rounder: </strong></td>
<td>a tool used to make dowels or round stock</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Router Plane: </strong></td>
<td>a plane used to smooth the bottom of a recess, which is a cut indentation in a piece of wood</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sandpaper: </strong></td>
<td>a coated abrasive with a paper backing</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sapwood: </strong></td>
<td>The new wood near the outside of a tree; generally lighter in color and more prone to decay than heartwood which is in the center of a log</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sash planes: </strong></td>
<td>a special moulding plane used to make windows</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Scraper: </strong></td>
<td>a tool used for the final smoothing of wood</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sharpening Angle: </strong></td>
<td>the angle that you hold the blade at while you hone it on a whetstone</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Shooting Boards:</strong></td>
<td>boards with straight, true edges that are used to guide the plane</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Shoulder: </strong></td>
<td>the part of the joint that is cut 90 degrees to the face or edge of the board; a joint only has a shoulder when that part of the board that fits into a joint must be thinner or narrower than the rest of the board</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sides: </strong></td>
<td>the two widest surfaces of a board, also called faces</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Siphon-Feed Gun: </strong></td>
<td>a spray gun that uses atmospheric pressure to deliver liquid from the cup to the nozzle</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Skew: </strong></td>
<td>to set something at an angle</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Slipstone: </strong></td>
<td>small whetstone that is rounded or tapered</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Smooth Plane: </strong></td>
<td>plane 9 or 10 inches long used to smooth the surface of a board,</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Softwood: </strong></td>
<td>wood produced by trees that have needles rather than broad leaves</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Stick: </strong></td>
<td>the board that the moulding is cut into</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Striking: </strong></td>
<td>the process of cutting mouldings</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Stopped: </strong></td>
<td>a cut or joint that ends before the edge or end of a board. For example, a stopped dado ends before the front edge of the board.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Stropping: </strong></td>
<td>process sometimes used when sharpening a plane blade in which a piece of leather that is impregnated with a fine abrasive is used to make the cutting edge very sharp</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Tack Rag: </strong></td>
<td>piece of cheesecloth that has been treated so that it attracts dust</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Tampico: </strong></td>
<td>natural filament derived from plants in the cactus family; it is resistant to chemicals and is used primarily in brushes used to apply chemical stains</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Tannin: </strong></td>
<td>acid found in wood; it forms different-colored compounds when it reacts with certain chemicals; most chemical stains depend on a reaction with the tannin in wood</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Taper: </strong></td>
<td>gradual angle cut on one or more faces of a board</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Tear-Out: </strong></td>
<td>condition that occurs when the grain of a board changes direction and the plane blade starts to chip the wood</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Temper: </strong></td>
<td>the correct heat treatment of a tool&#8217;s metal, to make it stay sharp longer</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Tongue And Groove Joint: </strong></td>
<td>a two-part joint in which a projection on one board called a tongue fits into a groove on the other board</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Tuning: </strong></td>
<td>the process of adjusting all of the working parts of a plane to their optimum positions and removing all imperfections in the casting left from the manufacturing process</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Turning: </strong></td>
<td>piece of wood that has been shaped on a lathe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Twist: </strong></td>
<td>a distortion in a board that results in the ends of a board not being parallel. When the face of a twisted board is placed on a flat surface, one corner of the board will be lifted off the surface.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Universal Plane: </strong></td>
<td>any plane that can be used with cutters of different sizes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Veneer: </strong></td>
<td>a thin sheet of wood; face veneers are usually made from expensive wood species and applied over cheaper wood&#8217;s core; veneers are made from inexpensive woods like fir and are used for the inner plies in plywood; veneers may be produced by rotary process, slicing or sawing</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Warp: </strong></td>
<td>any distortion in the shape of a board caused by changes in the moisture content of the wood</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Water Stain: </strong></td>
<td>a clear, permanent aniline dye stain that uses water as its solvent; it will raise the grain of the wood</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Wet Or Dry Sandpaper: </strong></td>
<td>sandpaper that uses waterproof glue to attach the abrasive particles to a water-resistant paper backing</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Whetstones: </strong></td>
<td>abrasive stones used to sharpen edge tools</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Whitewood: </strong></td>
<td>wood that has not yet been finished</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Wood Putty: </strong></td>
<td>a doughy product used to fill nail holes and defects in wood.</td>
</tr>
</table>
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		<item>
		<title>Wood Finishes and Finishing Jargon</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/wood-finishes-and-finishing-jargon/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/wood-finishes-and-finishing-jargon/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 23:52:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[blog craft ideas]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[blog crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[blogs with craft ideas]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft finishes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft mediums]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft techniques]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft terms]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft trends]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft wood]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[createforless craft ideas]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[createforless craft projects]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Decorative Painting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[DIY Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[faux finish]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mediums]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Mediums blog craft]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[paint finishes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[wood working]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[woodworking]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/wood-finishes-and-finishing-jargon/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Adhesion: the property causing one material to stick to another Barrier Coat: a coat applied which separates the substrate from contact with the topcoats Bleeding: when a dye or color absorbs through to the top layer; this is due to a common solvency of the topcoat and the dye Bloom: a bluish haze of a [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<table border="0" cellPadding="3" cellSpacing="0">
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Adhesion: </strong></td>
<td>the property causing one material to stick to another</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Barrier Coat: </strong></td>
<td>a coat applied which separates the substrate from contact with the topcoats</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bleeding: </strong></td>
<td>when a dye or color absorbs through to the top layer; this is due to a common solvency of the topcoat and the dye</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bloom: </strong></td>
<td>a bluish haze of a film usually caused by insufficient drying time of the oil stain before top-coating</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Blushing: </strong></td>
<td>a white, milky cast in a film which is caused by trapping moisture into the film; blushing can be prevented and eliminated by slowing down the drying of the coating by adding a blush retarder</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Blush Retarder: </strong></td>
<td>a reducer with slower drying properties</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Body: </strong></td>
<td>the thickness of viscosity of the coating while in liquid form</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bond: </strong></td>
<td>the adhesion of or ability of two items to stick to one another</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bridge: </strong></td>
<td>when a finish forms a layer over a crack or void</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Coat: </strong></td>
<td>the act of applying a coating to a surface</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Coating: </strong></td>
<td>any material applied to a surface leaving a protective layer on that surface</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cold Checking: </strong></td>
<td>the cracking of a finish due to exposure to cold temperatures</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Crawling: </strong></td>
<td>when a coating applied tends to flow away from areas leaving them uncoated; this is usually caused by grease or oil contamination of the surface to be coated</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>De-Laminate: </strong></td>
<td>the separation of layers due to lack of adhesion</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Distressing: </strong></td>
<td>fly speck spotting (and/or other age marks like hammering) in the finished surface or on the substrate</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Dye: </strong></td>
<td>a coloring material that dissolves in a system very transparent and not as color fast as a pigment</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Dry Hard: </strong></td>
<td>the elapsed time at which a coating has reached its optimum hardness</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fading: </strong></td>
<td>the loss of color due to exposure to sunlight</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fast to Light: </strong></td>
<td>a color which is not significantly affected by exposure to sunlight</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Finish: </strong></td>
<td>general term referring to the final protective coat done to add life to the piece painted that can be applied by brush or spray</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fish Eye: </strong></td>
<td>pock marks or craters that show up on finished surface when silicone is present</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Flash point: </strong></td>
<td>the temperature at which a material will ignite when exposed to a source of ignition</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Flat or Matte: </strong></td>
<td>a dull finish with little light reflection; non-glossy</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Flood: </strong></td>
<td>the act of very heavily applying a coating to the substrate</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Flow: </strong></td>
<td>the smoothing and leveling out of a coating</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Glaze: </strong></td>
<td>an oil based pigment which is applied between lacquer coats to accent or give a graining effect</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Gloss: </strong></td>
<td>the shininess or reflectability of a surface</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Holiday: </strong></td>
<td>an uncoated area of a coated surface usually missed unintentionally</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Incompatible: </strong></td>
<td>used in reference to coatings and/or stains that are not capable of being mixed with one another</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Leveling: </strong></td>
<td>the act of applying a coat which will smooth out a previously rough coat</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Opaque/Opacity: </strong></td>
<td>the degree of hiding of a pigmented coating. The opposite of transparent.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Orange Peel: </strong></td>
<td>a rough surface of a film similar in appearance to the skin of an orange</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Pigment: </strong></td>
<td>a finely ground, insoluble powder which contributes color to a coating &#8211; usually very color fast</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Pinholeing: </strong></td>
<td>the appearance of numerous small holes in a film, usually caused by bubbles due to heat drying of the coating</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Primer: </strong></td>
<td>a coating which is first applied to a bare surface to make it smooth and help paint adhere to the surface</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Reducer: </strong></td>
<td>to add solvent in order to thin a material to a workable thickness (viscosity)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sanding Sealer: </strong></td>
<td>a lacquer formulated to give better filling and sandability than the topcoat lacquer</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Substrate: </strong></td>
<td>the surface or material to be coated</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Transparent: </strong></td>
<td>clear enough to see through</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Translucent: </strong></td>
<td>allows light to pass through but not clear enough to see through</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Viscosity: </strong></td>
<td>the thickness of a coating material in its liquid form</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Volatile: </strong></td>
<td>the solvent portion of a coating</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Washcoat: </strong></td>
<td>very thin coat of shellac or sealer</td>
</tr>
</table>
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		<title>Trending Terms</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/craft-trending-terms/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/craft-trending-terms/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 23:50:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Trends]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/trending-terms/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[These terms focuses on the words you hear and read about when trends are mentioned in the craft industry. Trends revolved around color, technique, medium, and theme. Bead: Small piece of hard material pierced with hole for threading on string, wire, or ribbon. Beading: decoration with beads. Cane: Logs of various shapes and sheets of [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<table border="0" cellPadding="3" cellSpacing="0">
<tr>
<td colSpan="2">These terms focuses on the words you hear and read about when trends are mentioned in the craft industry. Trends revolved around color, technique, medium, and theme.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bead:</strong></td>
<td>Small piece of hard material pierced with hole for threading on string, wire, or ribbon.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Beading:</strong></td>
<td>decoration with beads.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cane:</strong></td>
<td>Logs of various shapes and sheets of polymer clay that are joined together to form a cane. Ends are removed to show pattern. Each slice of cane will then be the exact pattern.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Color:</strong></td>
<td>a phenomenon of light or visual perception that enables one to differentiate identical items</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Color Value:</strong></td>
<td>Lightness or darkness of a color.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Consistency:</strong></td>
<td>the thinness or thickness of a paint</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Contrast:</strong></td>
<td>the sharp difference between two colors</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Count:</strong></td>
<td>The number given a yarn or fiber to indicate its yardage per weight.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Crinkling:</strong></td>
<td>To make or become wrinkled, rippled, roughened, or creased. Usually done to fabrics like linen, challis, silk, or cotton.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Dye:</strong></td>
<td>a color used for staining, tinting, or toning a medium. There is no separation of ingredients once dye is made.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fad:</strong></td>
<td>interest followed for a time with exaggerated zeal, craze.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Finishing:</strong></td>
<td>Any treatment given to a fabric after weaving or to garments after cleaning to improve appearance like sizing or ironing.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Faux Finish:</strong></td>
<td>literally fake finish; using paints and tools to create a real look to a fake medium; texture and dimension added to surface of medium. Examples: marbleizing paper or wood, strippling glass or concrete, antiquing or weathering new metals or gold foiling plastic.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Flowable pigment:</strong></td>
<td>Lighter mixture of pigment, moves more like a dye, but will separate</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Hand:</strong></td>
<td>The feel, body, drape, or touch of the surface of fabric</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Hue:</strong></td>
<td>the name of a pure color.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Intensity:</strong></td>
<td>color&#8217;s purity or strength</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Loaf:</strong></td>
<td>Another word for cane.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Log:</strong></td>
<td>also called snake or rod. A solid cylindrical piece of polymer clay.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Medium:</strong></td>
<td>Material being used; example: wood, fabric, paper, clay, or plastic</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Millefiore:</strong></td>
<td>Italian; translated means &#8220;Thousand Flowers,&#8221; Technique originated by glassmakers and adopted by polymer clay craftsmen and artist.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Motif:</strong></td>
<td>another term for theme.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Nib, Nep, Nubb:</strong></td>
<td>Small bits of fiber that stick above surface of otherwise smooth fabric.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Paint:</strong></td>
<td>pigment mixed with liquid to produce color. Types: oil, water, acrylic, enamel.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Piece:</strong></td>
<td>Length of fabric</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Pigment:</strong></td>
<td>powder mixed with suitable liquid to produce color. Mixture will separate.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Primary colors:</strong></td>
<td>red, blue, yellow</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Secondary colors:</strong></td>
<td>mixing of primary colors; green, orange, purple</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Skein:</strong></td>
<td>a coil of yarn also called hank</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Shade:</strong></td>
<td>a color plus black</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Stenciling:</strong></td>
<td>Painting or dying using a template or design cut out of plastic, heavy paper, or metal</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Strippling:</strong></td>
<td>Dab paint up and down to give contrast or texture.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sponging:</strong></td>
<td>painting with a sponge to give texture and dimension. Sponge can be dabbed or pressed onto surface. Sponges can be of many natural or man-made varieties.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Technique:</strong></td>
<td>Skill being used; example weaving, stenciling, carving, or quilting.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Theme:</strong></td>
<td>subject, topic, or motif; example nature, family, barnyard, or flowers</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Tint:</strong></td>
<td>a color plus white</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Tone:</strong></td>
<td>a color plus grey</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Trend:</strong></td>
<td>a general direction taken, a current style or preference, vogue.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Wash:</strong></td>
<td>diluted paint used to stain or basecoat surface</td>
</tr>
</table>
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<td><img border="0" width="1" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/images/retail/shim.gif" height="10" /></td>
</tr>
</table>
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		<title>Stone Jargon</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/stone-jargon/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/stone-jargon/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 23:49:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jewelry Making]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[accessories DIY]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft glossary]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft jewelry]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft terms]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[jewelry]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jewelry Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[jewelrymaking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[stone glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[stone glossary]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/stone-jargon/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Amethyst: transparent purple stone, sometimes with inclusions. Hues range from lavender to deep regal purple. Aventurine: green or blue semi-translucent to mostly opaque stone with mica flecks that cause a slight metallic iridescence Black Onyx: a black opaque stone Bloodstone: dark green opaque stone with red spotting Blue Lace Agate: light blue translucent stone with [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<table border="0" cellPadding="3" cellSpacing="0">
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<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Amethyst: </strong></td>
<td>transparent purple stone, sometimes with inclusions. Hues range from lavender to deep regal purple.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Aventurine: </strong></td>
<td>green or blue semi-translucent to mostly opaque stone with mica flecks that cause a slight metallic iridescence</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Black Onyx: </strong></td>
<td>a black opaque stone</td>
</tr>
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<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bloodstone: </strong></td>
<td>dark green opaque stone with red spotting</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Blue Lace Agate: </strong></td>
<td>light blue translucent stone with white or milky banding</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cape Amethyst<br />
(Amethyst Quartz): </strong></td>
<td>translucent light to medium purple stone with white banding</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Carnelian: </strong></td>
<td>orange to bright red-orange translucent stone</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Clear Quartz<br />
(Rock Crystal): </strong></td>
<td>a colorless transparent stone</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fancy Jasper: </strong></td>
<td>an opaque multi-colored stone; colors are muted and range from green-blue to pinkish to orange-yellow frequently in the same stone</td>
</tr>
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<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fluorite: </strong></td>
<td>a transparent stone; green and purple with clear areas or bands</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Garnet: </strong></td>
<td>a transparent stone ranging in color from light red to darkish plum red</td>
</tr>
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<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Hematite: </strong></td>
<td>a silvery, shiny opaque stone that almost looks like metal</td>
</tr>
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<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Iolite: </strong></td>
<td>a transparent blue-violet stone; the lighter colors show more of the violet hue</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Lapis Lazuli: </strong></td>
<td>a dark, royal blue opaque stone with white veins or patches called calcite and a few gold-looking metallic flecks called pyrite</td>
</tr>
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<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Malachite: </strong></td>
<td>an opaque, banded stone; the colors in the bands range from a very light green to almost black</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Moonstone: </strong></td>
<td>a translucent milky stone with a little iridescence; can be found in several colors, most common are whitish-clear, grey, and light peach</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Moss Agate: </strong></td>
<td>not an agate, strictly speaking, but a chalcedony. Semi-transparent to opaque, mostly a variety of green tones with a little white or clear</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Natural Carnelian: </strong></td>
<td>a light to medium orange translucent stone, frequently with areas of lighter and darker orange for a banded or mottled look</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Natural Onyx: </strong></td>
<td>a semi-translucent to opaque, light colored stone with some banding found in varying degrees of yellowish-white, pale greenish-white, and grey</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Picture Jasper: </strong></td>
<td>a tan, opaque stone with medium and dark brown patches</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Poppy Jasper: </strong></td>
<td>opaque with colors of brick red, whites, browns and blacks</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Red Jasper: </strong></td>
<td>an opaque, mostly red stone</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rhodochrosite: </strong></td>
<td>a medium to light pink opaque stone with cream or creamy-pink banding</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rhodonite: </strong></td>
<td>a pink, opaque stone from medium pink to dusty rose, often with black inclusions</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rose Quartz: </strong></td>
<td>a pink transparent stone, sometimes leaning toward translucent, or with inclusions</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Smokey Quartz: </strong></td>
<td>a brown transparent stone; color ranges from very slightly brown to dark</td>
</tr>
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<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Tiger&#8217;s Eye: </strong></td>
<td>an opaque brown stone, with bands of darker brown and golden-yellow</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Unakite: </strong></td>
<td>an opaque stone variegated with shades of green and pink, sometimes with a little russet or red</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>White Marble: </strong></td>
<td>an opaque stone with a little metallic shimmer to it</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>White Onyx: </strong></td>
<td>a semi-translucent white to slightly yellowish-white stone that sometimes has an opaque white banding</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>White Quartz: </strong></td>
<td>a translucent white stone with varying degrees of opacity having some areas of cloudiness</td>
</tr>
</table>
<table border="0" cellPadding="0" cellSpacing="0">
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<td><img border="0" width="1" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/images/retail/shim.gif" height="10" /></td>
</tr>
</table>
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		<title>Soap Making Glossary</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/soap-making-glossary/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/soap-making-glossary/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 23:48:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[blog with craft ideas]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft blog]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft glossary]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft terms]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft trends]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[crafting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[createforless craft ideas]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[createforless craft projects]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[DIY Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[soap making]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Soap Making Glossary]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[soapmaking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Think Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[thinkcrafts]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/soap-making-glossary/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Abrasives: Gritty or rough substances, which are added to soap to help scrub away dirt or dead outer skin cells. Also helps remove excess oils from skin. Also considered an exfoliant. Avoid with delicate or dry skin types. Absolute: Products, not strictly essential oils, obtained through chemical solvent extraction. Allergy/Allergic: Hypersensitivity or reaction caused by [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<table border="0" cellPadding="3" cellSpacing="0">
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<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Abrasives:</strong></td>
<td>Gritty or rough substances, which are added to soap to help scrub away dirt or dead outer skin cells. Also helps remove excess oils from skin. Also considered an exfoliant. Avoid with delicate or dry skin types.</td>
</tr>
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<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Absolute:</strong></td>
<td>Products, not strictly essential oils, obtained through chemical solvent extraction.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Allergy/Allergic:</strong></td>
<td>Hypersensitivity or reaction caused by a substance or ingredient.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Anti-oxidants:</strong></td>
<td>Ingredient that retards the deterioration of the soap and prevents natural/fresh ingredients from combining with oxygen and becoming rancid.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Antiseptics:</strong></td>
<td>Ingredients that inhibit the growth of bacteria on living tissue or in soap.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Astringents:</strong></td>
<td>Substances or additives to soap that tighten or close skin pores. The effect makes skin feel smoother.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Aromatherapy:</strong></td>
<td>Using scents or essential oils to affect mental or physical well being of person.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Aromatherapy Benefit:</strong></td>
<td>The emotional or physical effect evoked by aromatic essential including balance, energy, rejuvenation, cleansing, deodorizing and purifying.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Aroma/aromatic:</strong></td>
<td>Having scent, flavor or taste</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Blenders:</strong></td>
<td>Additional scents that are combined with a main scent to enhance and fix the scents into a single blended fragrance.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Botanical Name:</strong></td>
<td>Refers to the Latin name of the plant in the biological classification system. A botanical name is composed of the genus followed by the species.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Carrier Oil:</strong></td>
<td>An oil base in which essential oils are diluted to create massage blends and body care products. A carrier oil has little or no scent.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Dermal:</strong></td>
<td>Pertaining to the skin.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Disinfectant:</strong></td>
<td>Prevents or combats the spread of germs.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Enfleurage:</strong></td>
<td>Age-old method of extracting essential oils using odorless fats and oils to absorb the oil from the plant material.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Essential Oil:</strong></td>
<td>Highly concentrated, volatile, aromatic essences of plants.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Emollients:</strong></td>
<td>Additives that soften skin.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Expression:</strong></td>
<td>Method of obtaining essential oil from plant material, such as citrus fruit peel. The complete oil is physically forced from the plant material. Also known as cold press extraction.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Extraction Method:</strong></td>
<td>The method by which essential oils are separated from the plant. Common extraction methods include distillation, expression and solvent extraction.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fillers:</strong></td>
<td>Ingredients that add bulk or extend a soap.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fixatives:</strong></td>
<td>Ingredients that stabilize volatile oils and prevent them from evaporating too quickly.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Food Grade:</strong></td>
<td>Safe for use in food by the Food and Drug Administration.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fragrance Oil:</strong></td>
<td>Fragrances and scents derived by synthetic means.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Herbal:</strong></td>
<td>Pertaining to natural botanicals and living plants.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Holistic:</strong></td>
<td>A natural approach to healing outside Western medicine conventions.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Homeopathy:</strong></td>
<td>Therapy using plant, animal and mineral substances in dilutions to overcome illness by stimulating the body&#8217;s natural immunity.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Hydrating:</strong></td>
<td>Restoring or maintaining normal proportion of fluid in the body or skin.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Insoluble:</strong></td>
<td>Unable to be dissolved in a liquid such as water.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Irritant:</strong></td>
<td>Substance or material that produces irritation or inflammation of the skin.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Main Scent:</strong></td>
<td>Dominant scent to which other scents can be added to create a new single blended scent.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Nervine:</strong></td>
<td>Strengthening or toning the nerves or nervous system.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Olfactory:</strong></td>
<td>Relating to or connected with the sense of smell.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Potpourri:</strong></td>
<td>Fragrant mixture of dried herbs and flowers. Usually scented with synthetic fragrance oils.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Relaxant:</strong></td>
<td>Ingredient that is soothing, relieving strain or tension.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Refrigerant:</strong></td>
<td>Ingredient that cools inflammation or eases muscle pain.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sedative:</strong></td>
<td>Ingredient that reduces functional activity or calms.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Single Note:</strong></td>
<td>Pure, 100% natural essential oil: no additives; no adulterations.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Soluble:</strong></td>
<td>Able to be dissolved in a liquid such as water.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Stimulant:</strong></td>
<td>Ingredient or substance that temporarily speeds the functional activity of a human tissue.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Synergistic:</strong></td>
<td>Characteristic in which the total effect is more effective than the individual parts.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Synergistic Blend:</strong></td>
<td>Combination of multiple essential oils that produce a completely new aroma with a different therapeutic effect.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Synthetic:</strong></td>
<td>Artificially produced substance designed to imitate that which occurs naturally.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rendering:</strong></td>
<td>Impurities in animal fats are removed during this process over heat creating tallow which is pure fat used in soap making.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Viscosity:</strong></td>
<td>Pertaining to the thickness or thinness of a liquid.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Volatile:</strong></td>
<td>Essential oils that evaporate very easily or quickly. Fixatives stabilize oils and result in a longer lasting scent.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Volatilization:</strong></td>
<td>Rate of evaporation or oxidation of an essential oil.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Wild:</strong></td>
<td>Growing spontaneously, not cultivated.</td>
</tr>
</table>
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		<title>Rubber Stamping Jargon</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/rubber-stamping-jargon/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/rubber-stamping-jargon/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 23:46:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Rubber Stamping]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Paper Crafts]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/rubber-stamping-jargon/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Brayer: a stamping tool which looks like a small rubber rolling pin with a handle or a roller paint brush. Often used with a linoleum block print, stampers use with unblocked stamps, smoothing paper, and large stamps to get an even print. Brush Markers: Marking pens with long broad base/narrow tip that can be used [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<table border="0" cellPadding="3" cellSpacing="0">
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Brayer:</strong></td>
<td>a stamping tool which looks like a small rubber rolling pin with a handle or a roller paint brush. Often used with a linoleum block print, stampers use with unblocked stamps, smoothing paper, and large stamps to get an even print.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Brush Markers:</strong></td>
<td>Marking pens with long broad base/narrow tip that can be used like a paint brush to color in stamped areas in a design. Water-based. Can also be used directly on a stamp.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Coated Paper:</strong></td>
<td>papers with a finish, glossy or matte. Accepts most inks, markers, and colored pencil, but pigment ink must be embossed.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Dye Ink:</strong></td>
<td>water-based and washable, but permanent once stamped onto paper. Stamps well, dries quickly, but will fade over time.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Embossing:</strong></td>
<td>Technique of using stamp, slow drying ink, embossing powder, and heat source to create a raised surface and stamp design on paper, ribbon, terra cotta, wood, and other stampable surfaces.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Embossing Ink:</strong></td>
<td>very wet, slow drying clear or tinted ink/fluid used as the medium that holds the stamped image as embossing powder is applied to surface.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Embossing Powder:</strong></td>
<td>a fine grained substance that will melt when heat is applied to it, the powder when melt leaves a raised design.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>First Generation Stamping:</strong></td>
<td>first impression made with a stamp after inking.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Heat Source:</strong></td>
<td>needed to melt embossing powders and must be at least 250 degrees. Stampers use high watt light bulbs, stove top burners, ovens, and heat guns.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Heat gun:</strong></td>
<td>also referred to as heat tool; looks much like a blow drier, but much hotter heating element.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Huffing:</strong></td>
<td>placing a stamp close to your mouth and breathing on it to re-wet the ink</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Juicy Image:</strong></td>
<td>using too much ink on stamp and image has too much ink on lines.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Mail Art:</strong></td>
<td>Hand designed, stamped postcards and envelopes made as communication or design specifically to be mailed to friends, fellow stampers, and in round robing, and swaps.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Overstamping:</strong></td>
<td>To stamp another stamp wholly or in part over another image.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Permanent Ink:</strong></td>
<td>either water soluble or solvent soluble inks that will not fade with time or light.. Solvent based inks dry by evaporation rather than absorption.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Pigment Ink:</strong></td>
<td>thicker, richer, and highly fade resistant type of ink vs. dye inks. Slow drying so works as a perfect embossing ink.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rainbow Stamp Pad:</strong></td>
<td>usually has three or more colors on the same ink pad, more recently the pads have been made in separate, removable sections.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Second Generation:</strong></td>
<td>third generation and so on; succeeding stamped images after the First generation stamped image is completed. Gives unique effects to stamped work.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sparkle:</strong></td>
<td>as in add the sparkle; using glitter, mylars, and other supplies to add &#8220;sparkle,&#8221; color, and glitz to stamped piece.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Uncoated Paper:</strong></td>
<td>papers with a higher absorbency rate that coated papers and easier to use with most inks, markers, watercolors, and colored pencils.</td>
</tr>
</table>
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		<title>Types of Paper</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/types-of-paper/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/types-of-paper/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 23:45:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Paper Crafts]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/types-of-paper/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Acetate: not a paper per say, but often used as a surface. A thin, flexible sheet of transparent plastic used to make overlays Acid Free Paper: has no free acid, or a pH of at least 6.5. The use of a synthetic sizing material allows the paper to be manufactured with a neutral or alkaline [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<table border="0" cellPadding="3" cellSpacing="0">
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Acetate: </strong></td>
<td>not a paper per say, but often used as a surface. A thin, flexible sheet of transparent plastic used to make overlays</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Acid Free Paper: </strong></td>
<td>has no free acid, or a pH of at least 6.5. The use of a synthetic sizing material allows the paper to be manufactured with a neutral or alkaline pH</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Acid Sized Paper: </strong></td>
<td>manufactured under acid conditions having no surface buffering capacity</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Board Paper: </strong></td>
<td>grade of paper commonly used for file folders, displays, and post cards</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bond Paper: </strong></td>
<td>grade of paper commonly used for writing, printing, and photocopying</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Book Paper: </strong></td>
<td>grade of paper suitable for books, magazines, and general printing needs</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bristol Paper: </strong></td>
<td>type of board paper used for post cards, business cards, and other heavy-use products. Some types of Bristol are referred to as Vellum Bristol, but are not true translucent vellum</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Buffered Paper: </strong></td>
<td>made in an acid environment and then buffered on the surface to obtain a required pH</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>C1S: </strong></td>
<td>paper coated on one side</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>C2S: </strong></td>
<td>paper coated on both sides</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cardboard Paper: </strong></td>
<td>general term for stiff, bulky paper such as index, tag, or Bristol</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Corrugated Paper: </strong></td>
<td>fluted paper between sheets of paper or cardboard or the fluted paper by itself</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cotton Content Paper: </strong></td>
<td>made from cotton fibers rather than wood pulp</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Dry Gum Paper: </strong></td>
<td>label paper or sheet of paper with glue that can be activated by water</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Enamel Paper: </strong></td>
<td>another term for Coated paper with gloss finish</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Handmade Paper: </strong></td>
<td>sheet of paper, made individually by hand using a mold and deckle</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Index Paper: </strong></td>
<td>light weight board paper for writing and easy erasure</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Laid Paper: </strong></td>
<td>paper with a prominent pattern of ribbed lines in the finished sheet. It is accomplished in handmade paper using a screen-like mold of closely set parallel horizontal wires, crossed at right angles by vertical wires spaced somewhat further apart</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Machine Made Paper: </strong></td>
<td>sheet of paper produced on a rapidly moving machine called the Fourdrinier, which forms, dries, sizes and smoothes the sheet; uniformity of size and surface texture marks the machine-made sheet</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Manila Paper: </strong></td>
<td>strong, buff-colored paper used to make envelopes and file folders</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Mold Made Paper: </strong></td>
<td>sheet of paper that simulates a handmade sheet in look, but is made by a slowly rotating machine called a cylinder-mould; the machine was introduced in England in 1895</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Parchment: </strong></td>
<td>paper that simulates writing surfaces made from animal skins</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rag Paper: </strong></td>
<td>paper made from fibers of non-wood origin, including actual cotton rags, cotton linters, cotton or linen pulp. Rag papers contain from 25-100% cotton fiber pulp</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rice Paper: </strong></td>
<td>common misnomer applied to lightweight Oriental papers; rice alone cannot produce a sheet of paper so rice (straw) is only occasionally mixed with other fibers in papermaking; the name may be derived from the rice size once used in Japanese papermaking</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Shrink Medium: </strong></td>
<td>not a paper per say, but a sheet of thin clear or opaque plastic that once heated shrinks in size</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Specialty Paper: </strong></td>
<td>term for carbonless, pressure-sensitive, synthetic, and other papers made for special applications</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Synthetic paper: </strong></td>
<td>plastic or other petroleum-based paper</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Tissue Paper: </strong></td>
<td>thin, translucent, lightweight papers available in many colors</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Waterleaf Paper: </strong></td>
<td>paper with little or no sizing, like blotter, making it very absorbent; if dampening is desired, this paper can be sprayed with an atomizer</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Wove Paper: </strong></td>
<td>paper with a uniform unlined surface and smooth finish, generally made on a European style mould with a woven wire surface</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Vellum: </strong></td>
<td>stiff, translucent paper available in clear, white, marbled, colored or embossed</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Velveteen Paper: </strong></td>
<td>also called plush or suede paper; paper with velvet feel and nap</td>
</tr>
</table>
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		<title>Paper Jargon</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/paper-jargon/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/paper-jargon/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 23:44:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
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		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/paper-jargon/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Acidity: a state of a substance that contains acid. Paper become acidic from the ingredients used in its manufacture, from the environment or both Alum: astringent crystalline substance used in rosin sizing to hold paper fibers together and responsible for introducing acid into the paper Basic Size: standard size of each grade of paper used [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<table border="0" cellPadding="3" cellSpacing="0">
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Acidity: </strong></td>
<td>a state of a substance that contains acid. Paper become acidic from the ingredients used in its manufacture, from the environment or both</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Alum: </strong></td>
<td>astringent crystalline substance used in rosin sizing to hold paper fibers together and responsible for introducing acid into the paper</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Basic Size: </strong></td>
<td>standard size of each grade of paper used to calculate basis weight</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Basis Weight: </strong></td>
<td>weight in pounds of a ream of paper cut to the basic size for its grade</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bast Fibers: </strong></td>
<td>refers to a group of fibers commonly used in Japanese papermaking, including flax, gampi, hemp, jute, kozo and mitsumata</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Brightness: </strong></td>
<td>characteristic of paper referring to how much light it reflects</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Buffering: </strong></td>
<td>process that gradually neutralizes a paper’ s acidity by adding an alkaline substance, like calcium carbonate, at the pulp stage. Buffering helps reduce the acidity of paper over time</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Coated Paper: </strong></td>
<td>papers with a finish, glossy or matte. Accepts most inks, markers, and colored pencil, but pigment ink must be embossed</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cold Pressed: </strong></td>
<td>mildly textured surfaces produced by pressing the paper through unheated rollers. Generally considered to be a surface between rough and hot pressed</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cut Stock: </strong></td>
<td>paper distributor term for paper 11 x 17 or smaller</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Deckle: </strong></td>
<td>wood frame resting on or hinged to the edges of the mold that defines the edges of the sheet in handmade papermaking. Also strap or board on the wet end of a paper machine that determines the width of the paper web</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Deckle Edge: </strong></td>
<td>natural, fuzzy edges of handmade papers, simulated in mould-made and machine-made papers by a jet stream of water while the paper is still wet. Handmade papers have 4 deckle edges, while mold-made and machine-made papers usually have two</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Dull Finish: </strong></td>
<td>characteristic of paper that reflects relatively little light</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Durability: </strong></td>
<td>degree to which paper retains its original qualities with use</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fibers: </strong></td>
<td>slender, thread-like cellulose structures that cohere to form a sheet of paper</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Filler: </strong></td>
<td>generic term to describe the nonoxidizing clays or minerals added to the pulp at the beater stage to improve paper density</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Finishing: </strong></td>
<td>term used to describe the cutting, sorting, trimming and packing of paper</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Gampi: </strong></td>
<td>blast fiber from the gampi tree used in Japanese papermaking to yield a translucent, strong sheet</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Gm/m2: </strong></td>
<td>metric measure of weight for artist papers. It compares the weights [in grams] of different papers, each occupying one square meter of space, irrespective of individual sheet dimensions. Another way of comparing paper weights is pounds per ream. A 140 lb. paper indicates that a ream [500 sheets] of that particular paper weights 140 lbs</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Gloss: </strong></td>
<td>characteristic of paper, ink, or varnish that reflects relatively large amounts of light</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Grade: </strong></td>
<td>one of seven major categories of paper: bond, uncoated book, coated book, text, cover, board, and specialty</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Grain: </strong></td>
<td>the direction in which fibers are aligned</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Grain Direction: </strong></td>
<td>direction in which the fibers of machine-made paper lie due to the motion of the machine. When machine-made paper is moistened, the fibers swell more across their width than along their length, so the paper tends to expand at right angles to the machine direction. Handmade and mold-made papers have indistinguishable grain directions</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Grain long or grain short: </strong></td>
<td>paper whose fibers parallel the long or short dimension of the sheet.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>High Alpha: </strong></td>
<td>nearly pure form of wood pulp which has the same potential longevity in paper as cotton, linen or other natural fiber</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Hot Pressed: </strong></td>
<td>smooth, glazed surfaces produced by pressing the paper through hot rollers after formation of the sheet</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Kozo: </strong></td>
<td>most common fiber used in Japanese papermaking, it comes from the mulberry tree. This is a long, tough fiber that produces strong absorbent sheets</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Linter: </strong></td>
<td>general term for preprocessed pulp, cotton or wood, purchased in sheet form. Cotton linters are fibers left on the seed after the long fibers have been removed for textile use. They are too short to be spun into cloth but can be cooked and made into paper. Stiffer and more brittle than long-fibered cotton, linters produce a low-shrinkage pulp good for paper casting. They cannot produce a paper with the strength of cotton rag. Wood linters are called hardwood or softwood depending on grade</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Mitsumata: </strong></td>
<td>bast fiber used in Japanese papermaking that yields a soft, absorbent and lustrous quality</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Mold: </strong></td>
<td>tool for hand-papermaking, it is a flat screen that filters an even layer of fibers through it to form the sheet. In western papermaking, it is accompanied with a wooden frame called a deckle</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Opacity: </strong></td>
<td>characteristic of paper that helps prevent printing on one side from showing on the other</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Permanence: </strong></td>
<td>degree to which paper resists deterioration over time</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>pH: </strong></td>
<td>measure of the hydrogen ion concentration of water solution and substance, denoting acid or alkaline A paper’s pH is measured on a scale from one to fourteen. Seven is neutral. Numbers higher than seven are alkaline and numbers lower than seven are acidic. Papers with a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 are generally considered neutral</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Plate Finish: </strong></td>
<td>smooth surface found on paper that has been run under a calender machine one or more times</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Ply: </strong></td>
<td>single web of paper, used by itself or laminated onto one or more additional webs as it is run through the paper machine</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Pulp: </strong></td>
<td>general term describing the beaten, wet mixture of stock used in making paper, whether its contents are wood, cotton or other fibers</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rags: </strong></td>
<td>processed clippings of new cotton remnants from the garment industry for use in high quality papers.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rough: </strong></td>
<td>heavily textured surfaces produced by minimal pressing after sheet formation</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Size: </strong></td>
<td>material, such as rosin, glue, gelatin, starch, modified cellulose, etc. added to the stock at the pulp stage, or applied to the surface of the paper when dry, to provide resistance to liquid penetration</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sulfite: </strong></td>
<td>term for pulp made from wood. Depending on how it is processed for papermaking, it can either be acidic or neutral pH</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Surface-Sized: </strong></td>
<td>term applied to a paper whose surface has been treated with a sizing material after the sheet is dry or semi-dry</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Uncoated Paper: </strong></td>
<td>papers with a higher absorbency rate that coated papers and easier to use with most inks, markers, watercolors, and colored pencils</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Watermark: </strong></td>
<td>design applied to the surface of the paper mold, which causes less pulp to be distributed in that area and results in the transfer of the design to the finished sheet</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Web: </strong></td>
<td>continuous ribbon of paper, in its full width, during any stage of its progress though the paper machine</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Wet Strength: </strong></td>
<td>strength of a sheet of paper after it is saturated with water</td>
</tr>
</table>
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		<title>Mosaic Jargon</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/mosaic-jargon/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/mosaic-jargon/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 23:43:43 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft terms]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft tips]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mosiac]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mosiac jargon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mosiac tips]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/mosaic-jargon/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Absorbent Paper: a paper used to make casts of mosaics, when soaked with water it becomes plastic and sticks to mosaic surfaces perfectly Air-Setting Mortar: a mixture of water, aggregate and a non-hydraulic binder that sets in air but is dissolved by water such as lime or gypsum plaster Andamento: the direction of the rows [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<table border="0" cellPadding="3" cellSpacing="0">
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Absorbent Paper: </strong></td>
<td>a paper used to make casts of mosaics, when soaked with water it becomes plastic and sticks to mosaic surfaces perfectly</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Air-Setting Mortar: </strong></td>
<td>a mixture of water, aggregate and a non-hydraulic binder that sets in air but is dissolved by water such as lime or gypsum plaster</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Andamento: </strong></td>
<td>the direction of the rows of tesserae; horizontal, circular, or sinuous lines</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Aventurine: </strong></td>
<td>type of glass paste containing sparkling gold colored particles exclusively employed as wall decoration</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Background: </strong></td>
<td>the area surrounding a figure</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bedding Mortar: </strong></td>
<td>a layer of mortar which makes up the foundation of a mural or floor mosaic</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Binder: </strong></td>
<td>a substance used to bind particles together, ensuring consistency and solidification; the process of setting can be through the loss or absorption of moisture or by a chemical reaction</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Burnt Lime: </strong></td>
<td>a caustic substance that is prepared by burning calcium carbonate limestone at approximately 900 degrees Celsius; at this high temperatures carbon dioxide is driven off and the limestone is converted to quick lime</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cartoon: </strong></td>
<td>the full-size drawing on which the final mosaic is based</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cement Mortar: </strong></td>
<td>a mixture of approximately three parts sand to one part Portland cement with water</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Chip Mosaic: </strong></td>
<td>mosaic formed from irregular chippings of stone</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Chopping Machine: </strong></td>
<td>used for cutting stone and smalti into tesserae; it has two blades, the bottom one being fixed while the top one is moved by a wheel so that it falls exactly over the fixed blade</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Flat Headed Nails: </strong></td>
<td>used to help plaster bind to a wall; strong nails with large flat heads</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Intarsia: </strong></td>
<td>decorative technique in wood or stone in which pieces of different color and equal thickness are cut to the shape according to the design and then attached to a support; also called inlay</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Interstice: </strong></td>
<td>the space between each tessera that is filled with grout</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Mortar: </strong></td>
<td>a mixture of binder, aggregate and water that will set hard over a period of time</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Pouncing: </strong></td>
<td>a technique used to transfer the design on a cartoon directly to the work surface; the design is pricked through along the contours and then pounced with charcoal dust so that the design is left on the surface underneath</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Pigment: </strong></td>
<td>a substance added to the glass paste or limestone to give it color</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rainbow Style: </strong></td>
<td>style of mosaic where the colors of tesserae are arranged in diagonal sequence instead of rows</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rotino: </strong></td>
<td>a small grinding wheel turned by hand used for shaping tesserae so that each join together perfectly</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Statumen: </strong></td>
<td>layer of rubble underneath the mortar bedding for a mosaic pavement</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Tessera: </strong></td>
<td>the basic unit of mosaic; a small piece of glass or stone, or any other material suitable for mosaic work, cut to a square, rectangular, triangular or other regular shape</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Tessellatum: </strong></td>
<td>commonly used in the phrase opus tessellatum to distinguish floor mosaic from wall mosaic</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Underpainting: </strong></td>
<td>a fresco painting on the top plaster coat when the mortar is still damp</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Vermiculatum: </strong></td>
<td>literally &#8216;worm like&#8217;; commonly used to describe the technique of pictorial mosaics made with minute tesserae</td>
</tr>
</table>
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		<title>Metalsmithing Jargon</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/metalsmithing-jargon/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/metalsmithing-jargon/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 23:36:46 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Craft Professional]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Craft Professionals]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft terms]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft tools]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[crafting professionals]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[crafting tools]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[metal smith]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[metalsmithing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Metalsmithing Jargon]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tools for crafting]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/metalsmithing-jargon/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Annealing: heat treating (softening) of metal after it has been work-hardened with steel tools, and is necessary between raising and forging stages; annealing is also used to remove tension in a piece of metal before brazing to help reduce warping Brazing: form of soldering that utilizes high temperature alloys to join high temperature metals Chasing: [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<table border="0" cellPadding="3" cellSpacing="0">
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Annealing: </strong></td>
<td>heat treating (softening) of metal after it has been work-hardened with steel tools, and is necessary between raising and forging stages; annealing is also used to remove tension in a piece of metal before brazing to help reduce warping</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Brazing: </strong></td>
<td>form of soldering that utilizes high temperature alloys to join high temperature metals</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Chasing: </strong></td>
<td>technique of detailing the front surface of a metal article with various hammer-struck punches</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Checking: </strong></td>
<td>hammering down onto the edge of a form to strengthen and visually thicken the edge</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Crimping: </strong></td>
<td>rapid raising process by forming radiating valleys from the center to the outer edge of a metal object then raised</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Die Forming: </strong></td>
<td>process of stamping or hammering a sheet of metal into a form, which has the outline of the object</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Drawbench: </strong></td>
<td>narrow, waist-high bench equipped with a chain dragging a pair of draw tongs (large coarse-toothed pliers) used to grip the end of a piece of wire and then pull the wire through a series of consecutively smaller dies (round, square, triangular) reducing its thickness</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Engraving: </strong></td>
<td>process of cutting shallow lines into metal with a sharp graver, reproducing artwork, which has been drawn on the metal article</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Firescale: </strong></td>
<td>purple stain that develops in sterling when oxygen penetrates the outer surface of an object during brazing, oxidizing the copper content</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Head: short, </strong></td>
<td>polished, cast metal mushroom-type stake that fits into a horse and is used for planishing and burnishing metal objects over</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Horse: </strong></td>
<td>held in a vise, this straight or L-shaped holding devise accommodates various heads</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Planishing: </strong></td>
<td>act of hammering or refining the surface of a metal object with highly polished hammer faces</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Polishing: </strong></td>
<td>process of refining a metal surface by use of a polishing wheel attached to a long-spindled motorized arbor that runs at high speed</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Raising: </strong></td>
<td>technique of forming a flat sheet of metal over a cast iron T-stake or head, forming and compressing the metal to take a hollow form</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Repoussé: </strong></td>
<td>process used to roughly emboss a metal object from the back or inside with larger punches than those used in chasing</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rolling Mill: </strong></td>
<td>hand or motor-driven cast iron mill with polished or patterned hardened steel rollers that reduce the thickness or impart a texture on metal sheet or wire</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Scratch Brush: </strong></td>
<td>long-spindled motorized arbor using fine wire wheels rotating at slow speed, burnishing the surface of a metal object after soldering; soapy water is used as a lubricant between the wheel and object</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Silversmith: </strong></td>
<td>one who fashions silver objects and wrought items such as forged flatware</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sinking: </strong></td>
<td>hammering of a flat piece of metal into a concave hemispherical shape in the top of a tree stump or any dished form</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Snarling: </strong></td>
<td>embossing from underneath or inside an object with a long-armed steel tool, with one end placed in a vise</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Soldering: </strong></td>
<td>low-temperature form of brazing</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Spinning: </strong></td>
<td>forcing of a flat disc of metal over a profiled steel or wooden form (chuck) with long-handled, polished steel tools</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Stake: </strong></td>
<td>any polished cast iron or steel tool placed in a vise and is used for forming and planishing metal over</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Surface Gauge: </strong></td>
<td>vertical steel rod mounted with an adjustable arm fastened to a heavy base</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Surface Plate: </strong></td>
<td>a perfectly level steel, cast iron or granite table of any dimension; used to check the level and flatness of an object</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>T-Stake: </strong></td>
<td>any polished, cast iron or steel tool in the form of an elongated &#8220;T&#8221;; used in a vise for raising, forming or planishing metal</td>
</tr>
</table>
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		<title>Glue Primer</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/glue-primer/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/glue-primer/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 23:06:23 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Techniques and Mediums]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft adhesive]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft gloassary]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft glue]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft terms]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[glue]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[glue and adhesive]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[glue glossary]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[glue term]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/glue-primer/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[2-Way Glue: Interesting glue! If you bond the two surfaces while the glue is wet, you have a permanent bond. If you bond the two surfaces after the glue dries, you have a temporary bond. This liquid glue is used mainly in paper art and craft and with photos. Craft Glue: Excellent general purpose glue [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<table border="0" cellPadding="3" cellSpacing="0">
<tr>
<td colSpan="2"></td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/search.aspx?txtSearch=two%20way%20glue" title="2-Way Glue">2-Way Glue</a>:</td>
<td>Interesting glue! If you bond the two surfaces while the glue is wet, you have a permanent bond. If you bond the two surfaces after the glue dries, you have a temporary bond. This liquid glue is used mainly in paper art and craft and with photos.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/search.aspx?txtSearch=all%20purpose%20glue" title="Craft Glue">Craft Glue:</a></td>
<td>Excellent general purpose glue for porous surfaces like paper, wood, and florals. Just like our name, usually less is more with this glue.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/search.aspx?txtSearch=epoxy%20glue" title="Epoxy Glue">Epoxy Glue:</a></td>
<td>This glue usually comes in 2 parts that are mixed. One of the strongest glues for non-porous surfaces or heavy items. Read packaging carefully as you need to work quickly before the glue sets. This is an iffy glue for paper bonding.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/search.aspx?txtSearch=hot%20glue" title="Hot Glue">Hot Glue:</a></td>
<td>Used when you want super quick tack and hold, but not best if the project will be exposed to extreme heat (the glue will soften and lose its grip) or extreme cold (glue will snap). You are better off with using a tacky glue and a little patience for a project that will be used outside in the winter or summer. Needs a glue gun for application. In this category you’ll find glue guns for hot, low temp, and dual temperature.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/search.aspx?txtSearch=jewelry%20glue" title="Jewelry Glue">Jewelry Glue:</a></td>
<td>Designed to hold a non-porous surface to a porous surface. This glue is also designed to hold heavy items (usually thought of in the jewelry category such as beads, but great for all crafts).</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/search.aspx?txtSearch=Non%20Porous%20glue" title="Non-Porous Surface Glue">Non-Porous<br />
Surface Glue:</a></td>
<td>There are glues designed to hold two non-porous surfaces together such on glazed ceramic to glazed ceramic or glass to metal or metal to metal. If possible, give the surface some teeth (sand, scratch the surface to give the glue something to hold on to). Read packaging carefully, these glues usually need to be used in a well-ventilated room. Often labeled as Glass, Ceramic or Tile glue. This glue is not good for any paper use or bonding.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/search.aspx?txtSearch=paper%20glue" title="Paper Glue">Paper Glue:</a></td>
<td>Thin bodied glue designed not to absorb into the paper. Anymore, this glue is acid-free and archival, but read packaging. You don’t need to use much paper glue to get a good bond. Use a thin line or thin film of this glue for best results.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/search.aspx?txtSearch=tacky%20glue" title="Tacky Glue">Tacky Glue:</a></td>
<td>Thicker than craft or paper glues, this glue is best for quick tack or heavier items.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/search.aspx?txtSearch=wood%20glue" title="Wood Glue">Wood Glue:</a></td>
<td>Believe it or not, glue designed specifically for wood is the best glue to bond wood (painted or unpainted). Just remember it doesn’t dry clear like many colored glues, it will dry pale yellow.</td>
</tr>
</table>
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		<title>Floral Jargon</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/floral-jargon/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/floral-jargon/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 23:04:15 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Floral Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft glossary]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft term]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[floral craft ideas]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[floral craft projects]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[floral crafting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[floral crafting idea]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[floral glossary]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[floralcrafts]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/floral-jargon/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[One man&#8217;s weed patch, may be another man&#8217;s garden. The world of flowers, foliage, and fauna has a language of its own. Here&#8217;s some key words to help you understand the seeds of the floral business. Asymmetrical Balance: informal, natural design, somewhat abstract design Bouquet: flowers selected and fastened together in a bunch. Bushes: silk [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<table border="0" cellPadding="3" cellSpacing="0">
<tr>
<td colSpan="2">One man&#8217;s weed patch, may be another man&#8217;s garden. The world of flowers, foliage, and fauna has a language of its own. Here&#8217;s some key words to help you understand the seeds of the floral business.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Asymmetrical Balance:</strong></td>
<td>informal, natural design, somewhat abstract design</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bouquet:</strong></td>
<td>flowers selected and fastened together in a bunch.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bushes:</strong></td>
<td>silk flowers sold with several stems gathered at base.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Composition:</strong></td>
<td>the grouping of the various parts that make up the floral arrangement. All parts become part of the whole (arrangement.)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Containers:</strong></td>
<td>natural, wood, metal, glass, plastic, pottery, ceramic vases, bowls, boxes, pots, and any other holder for arrangements.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Dried Flowers:</strong></td>
<td>through the process of air hanging, desiccants, pressing, or heat flowers and leaves have all moisture removed, preserving as much color, texture, and shape as possible.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Dried Look:</strong></td>
<td>silk flowers made to look like dried flowers.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fillers:</strong></td>
<td>smaller and more neutral colored flowers and greenery that serve as background to more showy pieces in design, used to &#8220;fill in&#8221; between main accent flowers.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Focal Point:</strong></td>
<td>the main area of arrangement that the eye will go to, usually a single element. This spot dominates the design. In a symmetrical design the focal point is at center, in a asymmetrical design the focal point is placed toward the high side of arrangement.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Foliage:</strong></td>
<td>leaves collectively, artistic grouping of leaves, twigs, flowers, branches, etc.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Free Form:</strong></td>
<td>there is no focal point of the arrangement.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Frog:</strong></td>
<td>a flower stem holder, any object that is used to hold stems securely in position.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Foundations:</strong></td>
<td>natural bare ropes, garland, wreathes, topiary trees, baskets, etc.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Garland:</strong></td>
<td>a wreath or rope of flowers and leaves</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Greenery:</strong></td>
<td>vines, ivies, ferns, or plants.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Handwraps:</strong></td>
<td>flower, leaves, and stem of silk flower have been hand wrapped with floral tape.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Harmony:</strong></td>
<td>parts of floral arrangement do not conflict with each other, but flow and compliment the design.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Nosegay:</strong></td>
<td>a small bunch or grouping of flowers, also called a posy</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Oil Dyes:</strong></td>
<td>dying process that allows for more realistic coloring and overall effect of silk flowers</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Polystem:</strong></td>
<td>Flower with solid stem versus a flower with a hand wrapped stem with floral tape.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Potpourri:</strong></td>
<td>a collection of flowers, leaves, seeds, spices, oils, and other natural ingredients used for scent and color.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Proportion:</strong></td>
<td>the relationship between elements of the arrangement in size, color, quantity, and setting.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Silica gel crystals:</strong></td>
<td>crystals used to dry flowers and foliage quickly, a desiccant used to remove moisture. Flowers and crystals are placed in an air tight container and flowers are dried in 3-4 days.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Stem:</strong></td>
<td>single flower or foliage.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Symmetrical Balance:</strong></td>
<td>formal design, perfect equality, all sides of arrangement match the other sides.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Swag:</strong></td>
<td>literally sinks or hangs down by its own weight, a rope or intertwined floral arrangement that hangs down at center.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Texture:</strong></td>
<td>refers to the physical surface qualities of the plant or flowers in an arrangement. Smooth, glossy, rough, soft. It can also refer to the size of leaves, twigs, or branches in an arrangement.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Wreath:</strong></td>
<td>flowers, twigs, grasses, and/or vines intertwined in a circular or continuous shape.</td>
</tr>
</table>
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		<title>Faux Finishes</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/faux-finishes/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/faux-finishes/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 23:02:53 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Painting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Techniques and Mediums]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft finishes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft mediums]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft techniques]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Decorative Painting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[faux finish]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[mediums]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[paint finishes]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/faux-finishes/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Antiquing: to make a new object look old through various techniques! Binder: component of paint; acrylics are the binder in latex products and oils in alkyd products Blending: toning down imprints or hue of glaze or paint by sponge brush or clothe to get softer effect or to combine different colors on a surface Bronze [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<table border="0" cellPadding="3" cellSpacing="0">
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Antiquing:</strong></td>
<td>to make a new object look old through various techniques!</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Binder:</strong></td>
<td>component of paint; acrylics are the binder in latex products and oils in alkyd products</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Blending:</strong></td>
<td>toning down imprints or hue of glaze or paint by sponge brush or clothe to get softer effect or to combine different colors on a surface</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bronze Powders:</strong></td>
<td>fine metallic powders from gold to copper</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Chisel:</strong></td>
<td>tool used to shave edges off wood</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Crackle Glaze:</strong></td>
<td>the appearance of old paint that has cracked and peeled to reveal a different color of paint underneath.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Crackle Varnish:</strong></td>
<td>the finish or varnished layer appears cracked and aged Criss-crossing: applying paint or glaze smoothly and evenly over surface by working top to bottom and then side to side on a surface.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Distressing:</strong></td>
<td>deliberately inflicting dents and knocks unto a new surfaces; also accomplished with over sanding.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Dragging:</strong></td>
<td>applying glaze and removing some of the glaze by sweeping with metal graining comb, dry brush, or feathers.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Eggshell Finish:</strong></td>
<td>slight sheen, reflects low amounts of light Flat Finish: no sheen or gloss; will not reflect light, very porous</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Flogging:</strong></td>
<td>glaze is manipulated by striking surface with a long bristled brush</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Gesso:</strong></td>
<td>thick chalky liquid, medium that is smooth and porous, absorbs color, allows for texture and design</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Gilding:</strong></td>
<td>the application of gold, silver, or other metal leaf to a surface</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Glaze:</strong></td>
<td>transparent coat of paint that is thinly brushed or sponged over a basecoat or raw surface</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Gloss Finish:</strong></td>
<td>shiny with luster, reflects light; note that Semi-Gloss less sheen that gloss.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Gold Leaf:</strong></td>
<td>Gold and other metals on a thin sheet of a transfer paper for gilding or foiling</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>High Gloss Finish:</strong></td>
<td>the most reflective of all finishes, looks almost like a glass layer over surface</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Intarsia:</strong></td>
<td>highly developed form of wood inlay</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Liming:</strong></td>
<td>Wood surfaces are stripped and treated with a limewash for protection</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Liquid Gold:</strong></td>
<td>bronze powder suspended in medium, must be shaken before use.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Luster Powders:</strong></td>
<td>powders containing mica to give luster</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Matte:</strong></td>
<td>dulled finish, no gloss or luster</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Milk Paint:</strong></td>
<td>paint made from curds with tint added to taste.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Satin Finish:</strong></td>
<td>higher sheen that eggshell, but not shiny like a gloss</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Spattering:</strong></td>
<td>flicking paint off a brush onto another surface to distress or age.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sponging:</strong></td>
<td>applying paint with sponge for effect or texture</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sponging Out:</strong></td>
<td>soaking up paint with a sponge or paper towel to remove areas of pigment for effect</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Stains:</strong></td>
<td>transparent liquids which allow base surface to show through color.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Stippling:</strong></td>
<td>dry brushing paint to surface for highlights and shading with short light dabs</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Tooth:</strong></td>
<td>to give surface a dull finish usually by sanding; helps paint adhere to a glossy surface</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Variegated Wash:</strong></td>
<td>different colors have been used in a way to run into each other</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Verdigris:</strong></td>
<td>bluish green patina formed on copper, brass, and bronze by corrosion of air and saltwater.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Wash:</strong></td>
<td>thinned paint for transparent basecoating or aging</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Working Dry:</strong></td>
<td>adding glaze or paint to dry glaze or paint</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Working Wet:</strong></td>
<td>adding glaze or paint to wet glaze or paint; also referred to as wet on wet</td>
</tr>
</table>
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		<item>
		<title>Fabric and Fiber Jargon</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/fabric-and-fiber-jargon/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/fabric-and-fiber-jargon/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 23:00:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Quilting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sewing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft glossary]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Craft Professional]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Craft Professionals]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft tools]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[crafting professionals]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[crafting tools]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fabric]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fabric terms]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fiber]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fiber term]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Needle Arts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tools for crafting]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/fabric-and-fiber-jargon/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Color: a phenomenon of light or visual perception that enables one to differentiate identical items Color Value: Lightness or darkness of a color Consistency: the thinness or thickness of a fabric or fibre Contrast: the sharp difference between two colors Count: The number given a yarn or fiber to indicate its yardage per weight Crinkling: [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<table border="0" cellPadding="3" cellSpacing="0">
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Color: </strong></td>
<td>a phenomenon of light or visual perception that enables one to differentiate identical items</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Color Value: </strong></td>
<td>Lightness or darkness of a color</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Consistency: </strong></td>
<td>the thinness or thickness of a fabric or fibre</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Contrast: </strong></td>
<td>the sharp difference between two colors</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Count: </strong></td>
<td>The number given a yarn or fiber to indicate its yardage per weight</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Crinkling: </strong></td>
<td>To make or become wrinkled, rippled, roughened, or creased; usually done to fabrics like linen, challis, silk, or cotton</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Dye: </strong></td>
<td>a color used for staining, tinting, or toning a medium. There is no separation of ingredients once dye is made</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Finishing: </strong></td>
<td>Any treatment given to a fabric after weaving or to garments after cleaning to improve appearance like sizing or ironing</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Hand: </strong></td>
<td>The feel, body, drape, or touch of the surface of fabric</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Hue: </strong></td>
<td>the name of a pure color</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Intensity: </strong></td>
<td>color’s purity or strength</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Nib, Nep, Nubb: </strong></td>
<td>Small bits of fiber that stick above surface of otherwise smooth fabric</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Piece: </strong></td>
<td>Length of fabric</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Primary colors: </strong></td>
<td>red, blue, yellow</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Secondary colors: </strong></td>
<td>mixing of primary colors; green, orange, purple</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Skein: </strong></td>
<td>a coil of yarn also called hank</td>
</tr>
</table>
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		<item>
		<title>Enameling Terms</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/enameling-terms/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/enameling-terms/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 22:59:28 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Craft Professional]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Craft Professionals]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft terms]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft tools]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[crafting professionals]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[crafting tools]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[enameling]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Enameling Terms]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tools for crafting]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/enameling-terms/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Annealed: the process of heating a metal to make it less brittle Bassetaille: applying enamels to metal which is in low relief Champleve: enameling technique where metal has been etched or carved away and the resulting depressions filled with enamel Chasing: the art of ornamenting metal with individual strokes of a hammer on chasing tools [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<table border="0" cellPadding="3" cellSpacing="0">
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Annealed:</strong></td>
<td>the process of heating a metal to make it less brittle</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bassetaille:</strong></td>
<td>applying enamels to metal which is in low relief</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Champleve:</strong></td>
<td>enameling technique where metal has been etched or carved away and the resulting depressions filled with enamel</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Chasing:</strong></td>
<td>the art of ornamenting metal with individual strokes of a hammer on chasing tools or punches</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cloisonne:</strong></td>
<td>enamel surface embellishment where the colors are separated by thin metal strips</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cold Forging:</strong></td>
<td>forming metal which has been annealed and cooled</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Enameling:</strong></td>
<td>glass fused to metal</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Grisaille:</strong></td>
<td>monochrome enameling</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Limoge:</strong></td>
<td>painted enamels</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Patina:</strong></td>
<td>a thin layer of green oxidation appearing on copper; can be produced by age or chemical process</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Pickled:</strong></td>
<td>an acid used to remove oxidation from metal</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Plique-a-jour:</strong></td>
<td>enameling technique where transparent enamels are placed in a wire framework giving a stained glass effect</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Repousse:</strong></td>
<td>decorating the surface of metal by hammering the reverse of the object, design refined by chasing</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sgraffito:</strong></td>
<td>method of scratching through the surface to reveal what is beneath</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Verdigris:</strong></td>
<td>green patina finish on copper</td>
</tr>
</table>
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		<title>Crafting Tools</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/crafting-tools/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/crafting-tools/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 22:58:22 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Craft Professional]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Craft Professionals]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft tools]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[crafting professionals]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[crafting tools]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tools for crafting]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/crafting-tools/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Abrasives: family of smoothing tools including, sandpaper, grit paper, steel wool, sand sticks, sand blocks, taping and cording. Abrasives can be dry or wet. Adhesives: substance or chemical mixture used to temporarily or permanently bond two surfaces or items Awl: sharp pointed usually metal tool for hand punching holes or openings Bevel: instrument to balance [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<table border="0" cellPadding="3" cellSpacing="0">
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Abrasives:</strong></td>
<td>family of smoothing tools including, sandpaper, grit paper, steel wool, sand sticks, sand blocks, taping and cording. Abrasives can be dry or wet.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Adhesives:</strong></td>
<td>substance or chemical mixture used to temporarily or permanently bond two surfaces or items</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Awl:</strong></td>
<td>sharp pointed usually metal tool for hand punching holes or openings</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bevel:</strong></td>
<td>instrument to balance or make centered</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Blending Stump:</strong></td>
<td>paper or soft textile stick used to blend pencil colors, chalk, pastels, or charcoal</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bone:</strong></td>
<td>hard wood tool used to score other materials</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bow Saw:</strong></td>
<td>hand held saw with thick blade anchored onto angled metal bridge, rough cutting</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Brad Point Bit:</strong></td>
<td>bit used on rounded surfaces for smoother cut or boring.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Brayer:</strong></td>
<td>similar to a rolling pin used to smooth or flatten materials</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Brush:</strong></td>
<td>natural or man made bristles gathered and clamp to transport a medium to another medium; sponge, round, flat, stencil, and more</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Burnisher:</strong></td>
<td>metal or wood instrument used to smooth, shape, embellish, polish, or transfer one material to another; also referred to as a embossing tool</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Calipers:</strong></td>
<td>metal instruments used in measuring, inside and outside measurements use different calipers</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Chisel:</strong></td>
<td>metal tools used to create decorative work in wood or create edges.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Circular Saw:</strong></td>
<td>hand held power tool with round or circle blade, rough to detail cuts</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Clamps:</strong></td>
<td>work holding device; C-clamps, bar, pipe, hand-screw, band, web, and specialty</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Coping Saw:</strong></td>
<td>hand held saw with thin cutting blade that is anchored across a metal bridge, fine cutting</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Drill:</strong></td>
<td>portable tool that can be hand held or placed in a press, used to bore holes, but anything is possible with the variety of bits available today.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Files:</strong></td>
<td>hardened steel with rows of finely spaced cutting teeth for smoothing, trimming and sharpening</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Hammer:</strong></td>
<td>hard or soft head with handle to pound smooth or insert one item into another, over 30 varieties for specific tasks. Include the mallet which is a rubber headed tool</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Kiln:</strong></td>
<td>like an oven used in ceramic to heat or fire work</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Lathe:</strong></td>
<td>tool that allows carving or decoration of wood with a spinning or turning motion while wood is clamped to machine.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Loom:</strong></td>
<td>frame used to weave materials or hold materials in place.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Miter Box:</strong></td>
<td>guide created to give accurate cutting of angle</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Needle:</strong></td>
<td>instrument with eye which can be threaded with thin materials, point is sharp or blunted</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Mold:</strong></td>
<td>used to cast or shape mediums or materials</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Palette Knife:</strong></td>
<td>shaped like a pie cutter, used to transfer medium, smooth medium, or texture medium</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Plane:</strong></td>
<td>used to smooth or flatten wood, hand held or power</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Radial Arm Saw:</strong></td>
<td>power saw with round blades used where the material is stationary and the saw moves to cut</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Ribs:</strong></td>
<td>smooth hand size wood pieces with edges in different degrees of texture used to shape clays or other modeling mediums</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rifflers:</strong></td>
<td>files with very small heads and large hand grips for detail work</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Router:</strong></td>
<td>portable power tool with changeable bits for variety of tasks from cutting to edging</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Ruler:</strong></td>
<td>also referred to in soft form as a tape, measurements in inches and meters</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sabre Saw:</strong></td>
<td>hand held power tool which only one end of straight blade is attached to saw</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Smoldering Iron:</strong></td>
<td>heating tool used to melt metals or transfer metal to a surface</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Square:</strong></td>
<td>wood and metal tool used to make correct corners, edges, and cuts</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Staple Gun:</strong></td>
<td>hand or power tool that shoots staples or nails into material</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Stylus:</strong></td>
<td>metal rounded tip used to create perfect, consistent dots</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Table Saw:</strong></td>
<td>Stationary saw with a round blade use where material is moved to cut.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Tack Cloth:</strong></td>
<td>very sticky cloth or fabric used to remove fine particles or dust from wood, metal, ceramic, etc.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Tjanting:</strong></td>
<td>holds wax to use in applying lines of wax to materials as in batik</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Trim Tool:</strong></td>
<td>used to smooth or cut materials, wires of different shapes, thickness, and widths are clamped to a hand held handle</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Wheel:</strong></td>
<td>table with flat top that rotates or spins</td>
</tr>
</table>
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