I Like Clipboards yes I do!

October 15, 2009 Crafts, Guest Bloggers, Painting, Projects, Trends 1 Comment

Please welcome experienced crafter and guest blogger Amy, from the blog “Mod Podge Rocks”.

I like clipboards yes I do, I like clipboards how ’bout you?

I’ve had several people tell me recently that they are working on clipboard projects, either for themselves or for gifts. I decided that I wanted to do one too, so I took a dive into the stash and this is what I came up with.

A little research reveal that clipboards are hot for back-to-school this year - but not the typical brown slab with a silver clip.  This year’s clipboards are fun and funky . . . and easy to personalize.  They are also way easier than you might think.  Just follow this tutorial for fabulous results!

"Hi, I'm a boring brown clipboard. To fix me up, gather the following supplies."

Supplies:

Clipboard
Scrapbook paper - 2 coordinating pieces
Acrylic paint - coordinating color (I used Sky Blue)
Spray paint - coordinating color (I used Apple Green)
Craft Glue
Chipboard letters and/or coordinating embellishments
Ribbon - all from my stash
Mod Podge Gloss, 8oz.
Flat paint brush
Ruler
Craft Knife and Mat
Pencil

Start by removing the clip at the top and set it aside.  Time to paint the board.  Paint one side, allow to dry, flip over and paint the other.  Do this at least twice depending on your paint color - I did mine three times because my paint was a little lighter and I wanted great coverage.  Set aside to dry.

 

While you are waiting for the paint to dry on the clipboard, spray the clip.  I had this extra paint laying around which happened to coordinate.  Lucky me, right?  Either buy spray paint (there are baby sizes now), or use outdoor paint such as this.  You can also use regular acrylic paint, but you’ll need to seal it with acrylic sealer so that it doesn’t scrape off.

While both the board and clip are drying, measure and cut your paper.  My clipboard is 9″ x 12″, and I decided I wanted two pieces of paper that met in the middle.  Therefore, I measured out two pieces of paper, 9″ wide x 6″ tall.

Cut both sheets of paper with your craft knife.  Lay them out on the clipboard (which should now be painted and dry) and make sure that they fit.

You laid out the papers on the board - remove the top piece and cover the board with Mod Podge.  Put on a medium coat, and make sure to get the corners well.  You’re probably going to put on more than you think.  Lay the top piece of paper down and smooth out with your fingers.

 

 Okay, so the top piece is down.  Repeat the process with the bottom piece.

Now that both pieces are down, you can use either your fingers or a brayer (like I am above) to smooth both sheets down thoroughly.  If any Mod Podge comes out the sides, wipe it away with your paint brush.  Allow these sheets to dry for 15 - 20 minutes, and then Mod Podge over the top of them.  Allow to dry, flip over and then Mod Podge the back of the clipboard to seal the paint.  Allow to dry for at least an hour.

This is always the fun part for me!  You’ll notice that when the Mod Podge dried, I replaced the clip.  I also laid out some ribbon that I had in my stash, a large brown piece and a thinner orange piece.  I had some chipboard letters to make the “Notes” saying down at the bottom, and I had a sticker to adhere to the clip.  I glued everything down with craft glue and allowed to dry for 24 hours.

 

Here’s the finished clipboard again.  Notice that I tied some ribbon at the top too - they were about 10″ pieces that I just knotted through the hole.  I call the ribbon the “piece de’la resistance.”  That’s French for something really cool!  Enjoy your clipboard, and as always I encourage you to use papers, colors and embellishments that fit your style.  Don’t forget, above all else, have fun!

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Faux Finishes

June 24, 2008 Glossaries, Painting No Comments
Antiquing: to make a new object look old through various techniques!
Binder: component of paint; acrylics are the binder in latex products and oils in alkyd products
Blending: toning down imprints or hue of glaze or paint by sponge brush or clothe to get softer effect or to combine different colors on a surface
Bronze Powders: fine metallic powders from gold to copper
Chisel: tool used to shave edges off wood
Crackle Glaze: the appearance of old paint that has cracked and peeled to reveal a different color of paint underneath.
Crackle Varnish: the finish or varnished layer appears cracked and aged Criss-crossing: applying paint or glaze smoothly and evenly over surface by working top to bottom and then side to side on a surface.
Distressing: deliberately inflicting dents and knocks unto a new surfaces; also accomplished with over sanding.
Dragging: applying glaze and removing some of the glaze by sweeping with metal graining comb, dry brush, or feathers.
Eggshell Finish: slight sheen, reflects low amounts of light Flat Finish: no sheen or gloss; will not reflect light, very porous
Flogging: glaze is manipulated by striking surface with a long bristled brush
Gesso: thick chalky liquid, medium that is smooth and porous, absorbs color, allows for texture and design
Gilding: the application of gold, silver, or other metal leaf to a surface
Glaze: transparent coat of paint that is thinly brushed or sponged over a basecoat or raw surface
Gloss Finish: shiny with luster, reflects light; note that Semi-Gloss less sheen that gloss.
Gold Leaf: Gold and other metals on a thin sheet of a transfer paper for gilding or foiling
High Gloss Finish: the most reflective of all finishes, looks almost like a glass layer over surface
Intarsia: highly developed form of wood inlay
Liming: Wood surfaces are stripped and treated with a limewash for protection
Liquid Gold: bronze powder suspended in medium, must be shaken before use.
Luster Powders: powders containing mica to give luster
Matte: dulled finish, no gloss or luster
Milk Paint: paint made from curds with tint added to taste.
Satin Finish: higher sheen that eggshell, but not shiny like a gloss
Spattering: flicking paint off a brush onto another surface to distress or age.
Sponging: applying paint with sponge for effect or texture
Sponging Out: soaking up paint with a sponge or paper towel to remove areas of pigment for effect
Stains: transparent liquids which allow base surface to show through color.
Stippling: dry brushing paint to surface for highlights and shading with short light dabs
Tooth: to give surface a dull finish usually by sanding; helps paint adhere to a glossy surface
Variegated Wash: different colors have been used in a way to run into each other
Verdigris: bluish green patina formed on copper, brass, and bronze by corrosion of air and saltwater.
Wash: thinned paint for transparent basecoating or aging
Working Dry: adding glaze or paint to dry glaze or paint
Working Wet: adding glaze or paint to wet glaze or paint; also referred to as wet on wet
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Basic Decorative Painting Terms

June 24, 2008 Glossaries, Painting No Comments
These words can paint a picture for you to understand the lingo of the decorative painter and artist. A colorful palette to impress your friends.
Acrylic: as in paint; waterbased paint that dries quickly.
Antiquing: technique used in finishing a painted item that gives an aged or darken look to the paint. Available in sprays and cremes. Usually applied to the wood and then rubbed off.
Basecoat: color applied to an entire piece. Like a background color with other colors or detailing work is added to the piece. Usually one or two coats of paint.
Color: another word for paint.
Dry Brushing: technique of using a dry brush with a minimal amount of paint in it to add shading or highlighting details to a design. Brush is dipped in paint and using a paper towel most of the paint is removed from brush.
Fan: brush used to create texture; bristles are shaped like a fan; used dry or with only tips of brush loaded with paint.
Ferrule: metal part of a brush where the bristles meet the brush handle
Flat: as in flat brush; ferrule is crimped or flat; used in stroke work, basecoating, and shading/highlighting. Various sizes available
Flip Float: floating one side, flipping the brush, and floating opposite side as in pant legs.
Float: one side of a flat brush is loaded with paint and the brush is stroked on palette until a blended color is achieved. Floating is used to shade or highlight.
Filbert: brushes used to create soft edges, blend colors, and has the shape of a flower petal or leaf.
Highlight: lighten a painted area as is the sun (light) was touching it. Gives a more realistic effect to painted piece. Color used to highlight is lighter than color being highlighted
Gloss: as in finish/sealer; very shiny surface; gloss sealer is the final step to piece to protect the work from light and water damage.
Liner: brush that is round used to create straight or curves lines with consistency.
Load: as in load a brush; brush is dipped into paint and paint is stroked into brush
Matte: as in finish/sealer; dull, non-glossy surface.
Round: as in round brush; ferrule is round, brush has pointed tip, used for stroke and detail work like comma strokes, writing, vines, or eyelashes. Various sizes available
Sealer: finish in spray or brushed on to seal raw wood before paint is applied.
Shade: opposite of highlighting; area is darkened to give the appearance of shadow or shading.
Stylus: tool to make dots of paint, emboss, or transfer a design, end(s) is small metal ball; tip end of brush can be used as a stylus.
Palette: colors used to create a design; palette paper is a coated paper designed to help blend colors, make washes, and is usually disposable. Also used as palettes are plastic lids, ceramic tiles, and freezer paper.
Technique: method used to achieve a specific look, texture, or feel to a piece; examples include: stripping, sponging, marbleizing, or antiquing.
Tint: light, transparent color; a hint of color.
Tole: painting on tin or metal.
Transfer Paper: paper coated on one side with gray, black, white, blue, or red material that aids painters in transfer a design to surface. Paper is placed color side down, design is placed on top of transfer paper, and a stylus or pencil is used to trace the design.
Wash: water is added to dilute paint making it lighter in color and transparent; wood grain can be seen through a wash.
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Trends In 2008 - Paint and Brush

January 8, 2008 Painting, Trends No Comments

Traditional painting and even paint by numbers is showing a comeback in 2008. More kits and books will be available. Canvas seems to be the surface of choice with wood objects following very close behind. It’s hip not to frame canvas, but just hang it on the wall in groupings. Bold designs with tropical and abstract flavor are popular. Little shading is seen, but highlighting seems bolder and has a big impact.

Brushes do the main work when painting and take advantage of the specialty brushes if you want to add some texture or highlight to your projects. Stenciling is seeing a big interest especially in home décor and paper arts. Who would have thought that scrapbookers would be grabbing paint and brush? Well, they are and they are loving it. Cardmakers are including more paint in designs too.

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