Why is it that every new pattern I decide to knit needs a size of needle that I’ve never used before? Or maybe I have the size, but it calls for circular and all I have are straights. I think it’s a conspiracy. Keeping track of all of my knitting needles has never been my forte. So between the need for new sizes and styles for every project I do, and my habit of sticking needles I do have in random drawers, I feel like I’m always buying yet another set of knitting needles. Well NO MORE. I am getting organized. And by organized I mean that I made myself a needle case to keep all those needles safe and sound and in one place. So next project I start, well, I wont be buying duplicate needles for it you can be sure. I haven’t quite collected every size known to man so there is always the possibility that I’ll still need to go out and buy more, but at least this time I’ll have a place to put them!

Because I didn’t want to spend time hemming or lining, I chose boiled wool felt for this project. But it was a toss up between the felt and some very pretty oil cloth that I bought the other day for something…I’m not sure what yet. The Felted wool felt won out because when I think of knitting, I think cozy, and oil cloth, not so cozy.  Any fabric that you don’t need to hem (fleece, vinyl, regular felt) would work. Or, you know, you could hem it. But why bother?

Here’s what you need

Fabric – 10″ by 16″ – or whatever size you need to fit the length of your longest needle and lay out all or most of your needle sets
Contrasting fabric – 10 inches by 6 inches – or the same width as above and around 1/3 the length
Coordinating thread
Sewing machine
Pins
Ribbon – 12 inches or more

1. Lay your fabric out flat with what will be the bottom of your case facing you.

2. Pin the smaller piece of fabric so that the bottom edges line up and the sides are even. Pin in place.

3. Tuck the ribbon, folded in half, under the edge of one side of the smaller piece of fabric so that it is sandwhiched into place. Pin and sew around the sides and bottom.

4. Place a pin to mark the width of each pocket for your needles. You’ll want to think about the size of the needles you have for this. Smaller needles need narrower pockets otherwise they will fall out. You’ll want to make each pocket about the width of three needles set side by side.

5. Stitch up from the bottom to form each pocket.

6. Insert your needles, roll up toward the ribbon end and tie! Now if I can only find a way to keep track of my patterns….

Aside from my wedding ring and my grandmother’s screw on (i.e. can’t fall off) diamond earrings, the only jewelry that I wear on any kind of regular basis are bracelets. I love necklaces, but about a week after my first child was born I realized that kids and necklaces don’t mix. Or at least my kids and necklaces don’t mix. Although now that they are 4 and 8 I’m probably safe to wear them again. But I’m out of practice. My jewelry box is full of bracelets.

Or I should say it’s full of lots of broken bracelets and a few hearty specimens that have survived where the others failed. I break bracelets all the time. Part of this I can blame on the kids, but most of it is all me. I spend a lot of time at the computer and I am constantly putting on and taking off my bracelets, and eventually, they break. Recently I moved most of the broken but-I’ll-fix-it-someday bracelets to a bead jar on my desk and in the process I realized that in most cases I don’t have all the bits and bobs from the originals, so returning them back to that state is probably not going to happen. Enter Stretch Magic.

If you are a veteran of jewelry making, you know all about this stuff, but I’d never tried it and I was so excited to get my hands on some and start turning my jar-o-beads back into wearable jewelry again.

Before you start, think about the size of the holes on your beads. Stretch Magic comes in a variety of thicknesses and several colors. Most of my beads had larger holes and since breaking has been an issue in the past, I chose the 1mm clear for my projects.

If you don’t have any broken bracelets or necklaces to start with (lucky you!) you can always peruse the many options that are out there just waiting for you to make something from them. I know I could go absolutely overboard buying different beads and charms in the jewelry making section.

Cut a good four inches longer than your wrist is around and start sliding on the beads, thinner Stretch Magic may require a needle but I had no problem using it straight with my larger holed beads. Once you have arranged your beads the way you want, tie the ends together using an overhand knot or two to secure the two pieces together without slippage. Trim the ends and enjoy your new (old) jewelry!

Here’s the perfect project for your fashionista tween. These button bobby pins are fast, easy and infinitely customizable. And bonus! They require no sewing! You need very (VERY) little fabric for this so instead of buying new, have your tween search through your scrap bag or even harvest some fabric from favorite worn-out clothing. You can also vary the style by changing the button size. Look for variety packs  for button kits so they can create all kinds of styles and looks.

Here’s what you need:

Fabric scraps
Covered Button Kit
Fabric Scissors
Bobby Pins

1. Cut circles of fabric about the size indicated on the back of the button package. Pay attention to what is centered on the fabric, this will be what’s on your button.

2. Center the circle of fabric on your button holder and press the button top in so that the fabric is pulled tight over the front.

3. Fold down the edges and place the button backing on top, pressing it into place with the presser piece.

4. Pop out your button and thread the shank of the button onto the bobby pin. Pop them in your hair and your ready to go!

Enter to win this Plaid Simply Screen Kit!

This kit comes complete with everything you need to make your own screen printed shirts. With Plaid Simply Screen Stencils it’s quick and fun to decorate and personalize all kinds of projects, such as memory books, frames, furniture, tees, tanks, hoodies, and much more! Simply Stencils are precision cut, have a non-slip pebble back and are made of colorful transparent material so you can easily see where to place the design. Designs can be applied in a single color, or with a multi-color effect by masking areas of the pattern. No muss, no fuss, no waiting. Just choose your design, paint color and shirt to begin creating professional quality screen printed garments.

Kit contains:

Plaid Simply Screen Stencil Chandelier
Plaid Simply Screen Stencil Love
Plaid Simply Screen Foil Pack 6pc
Plaid Simply Screen Glitter Fun Fashion 4pc
Plaid Simply Screen Paint 2oz in Oasis, Envy and Pink Pony
Plaid Simply Screen Foil & Glitter Adhesive
Plaid Technique Guide Simply Screen Printing

Every Friday we’ll post a giveaway on Think Crafts and all you have to do is comment on the blog post answering the question of the week. We’ll pick the winner and contact them via email. Deadline is midnight tonight and the winner will be announced Monday. One entry per person please. Contest opened to all US residents, no purchase necessary.

Question of week: What is your favorite cheesy joke?

Here’s Mine!

Q: What do you get when you put 3 ducks in a box?
A: A box of quakers!

My friend Anna has an amazing ability to take great high-end decorating ideas and making them practical and affordable.  After seeing some great pillows, she decided to ask my friend Aimee to make some for her . . . out of burlap! 

Friends, it may not be a pillow you’ll cozy up to, but the burlap adds great texture and dimension.  They are perfect for a neutral throw pillow to add in with other pillows or to throw on your outdoor bench.  Maybe it sounds crazy, but try it.  In another post will include ways to “spice up” your burlap pillow, so make it now, and get ready for crazy fun.

Here’s what you need:

Scissors
Thread similar to this
Pillow Form
Burlap

Because burlap is see-through, we double-layered it.  You could put colored duck cloth or other fabric underneath, but burlap is inexpensive and it’s just as easy to double it.  The rest of the instructions will assume you just folded over your burlap and are measuring it together.

Figure your dimensions: 

We used a 12” x 16” pillow form.  We accounted for ½” seam allowance on all sides.  We also decided we wanted the make it a pillow case so that when we change our minds and want to do something different with our pillow, we can!  So, we allowed for a 2” over lap in the back plus 2” fold-over (which makes it look good.)  Here’s what that ends up looking like:

Here’s the math: 

Height:  12” (front) + 12” (back) + 1” total seam allowance = cut 25”

Width:  16” (front) + 16” (back) + 1” total seam allowance + 8” fold-over/over-lap =  cut  41”

You should have a 25” x “41 double layer piece of burlap.

Fold over and pin the 2 short ends 2 ½” (2” fold-over + ½” seam allowance).  Sew ½” seam on each end.

With RIGHT SIDES TOGETHER, fold burlap in thirds, over lapping your folded edges 2”, so that the fold on one side meets the seam of the other folded side.

Pin sides.  Sew sides together with a ½” seam.  Don’t worry about raw edges.  It won’t matter in the pillow! 

Trim corners, being careful not to cut through your seams. 

Turn right side out, and viola!  Burlap pillow cover!

Stay tuned for further ideas in burlap décor!

If you’re a crafter, or a blogger, or both, you’ve probably run into times when people have asked about something you’ve made and how they can get one. It’s one of those moments when you think “hmm, I wish I had a business card!” except, it’s hard to justify a whole box of business cards when you just need one here and there. And what if what you’re crafting changes, as it does with most crafty people. Do you order a whole new set of cards? Maybe you just want to have your contact information handy for meeting other moms. What’s a crafty gal to do?

Instead of weighing your desk down with a big box of cards, grab some shipping labels and a stamp kit and have an ever changeable business card making set always at your fingertips! These tags are also handy for gift wrapping, organizing and a myriad of other things, so don’t be afraid to buy in bulk!

Here’s what you need

Letter stamp kit
Fun stamps
 Box of Shipping Labels
Stamp Pad 

Before you break out the tweezers and teeny letters, figure out what you want your card to say. Do you want a phone number or just an email address? Do you have a website or a blog? How do you want your name to look? Do you have a tagline? Write it all down so you can lay out your stamp easily, then pull out those tweezers and start arranging letters. I found my custom stamp kit with the small letters at a business supply store.

Once you have your words ready to go, look through your collection of fun stamps (come on, I know you have some!) and try out a few on your card. Or try cutting the end off the card with pinking sheers, you can even glue small strips of ribbon to the card or play around with embossing. Try out several combinations until you have a few you love and stamp away. Remove the wire from the tag and tuck a few in your bag. The next time someone stops you at the park and asks “where did you get that?” you can come back with “Why, I made it, here’s my card!” And a small business is born

There’s not a lot to like about smoking, given its effect on a person’s health, but when my friend Buddy gifted me with his empty cigar boxes, I was selfish enough to be glad he’d been a cigar smoker! They’ve been so much fun to work with I thought I’d share my techniques and ideas for turning a cigar box into a purse.

Here’s what you’ll need:

• A cigar box, either the oval or rectangular kind
• Scraps of fabric
• Braid, lace, bits of trim, ribbon, old jewelry, etc.
• 4 washers (mine are black plastic, but metal is fine)
• About a yard of heavy cord 
• Adhesives, glue gun, etc.

The first thing you’ll want to do is take off any labels that won’t be covered by fabric. Take a blow dryer, and blast that stream of hot air at the label, then gently peel the label off. It’s pretty easy to do, but be careful not to burn your fingers!

Measure the circumference and width of the cigar box and cut a piece of fabric about 1” (2.5cm) longer than the circumference and about 1/4” (.6cm) narrower than the width. Turn a very narrow hem on each end, and either glue or sew it. No need to hem the sides, as they’re going to be covered by trim. Wrap the box, gluing along the edges, and across the indentation where the lid is hinged, and turning the ends of the fabric piece to the inside of the box.

Cut two pieces of trim just the length of the box’s circumference. (You’ll want something like braid or velvet ribbon so that no glue shows through.) If you’re using a trim that will fray, run a line of glue across the underside of each end.

Glue the trim to the edges of the box, covering the edges of the fabric wrap completely.

It’s time now to do the handles. With the oval boxes, the lid hinge will be at the top of the purse; with the rectangular style, the hinge is at the bottom. Measure about an inch down from the top of the purse on each uncovered side, and drill or punch a hole large enough for the handle cord to pass through.

Cut a piece of cord about 36” (1m) long, and tape each end to keep it from unraveling while you work. Tie a knot as close to one end as you can, and thread on the first washer. From the inside of the cigar box, push the unknotted end through the hole you made, and pull through. Put a bit of glue all around the edges of the hole, inside and out, and thread on another washer, pulling the knot and both washers tight against the box. Thread on another washer, and run the other end of the cord through the other hole. Thread on the last washer. Knot the cord, put glue around the edges of the hole, and pull the knot and both washers flush. Trim off the taped ends of the cord close to the knots. Wipe off any excess glue, and hang the bag from a doorknob, to keep pressure on the knots and washers while the glue dries.

When the glue is dry, decorate your purse with lace, old jewelry, etc., covering any glue boo-boos. The oval boxes have a magnetic clasp built in; for a “regular” box, affix the clasp of your choice—a button and elastic loop will work well.

Front of the cigar purses

...and the back!

I’ve been doing a lot of fashion crafting lately, which is fun because I feel like I have a new wardrobe!  I really love chandeliers, and my boring orange ol’ t-shirt needed something to spice it up.  Simply Screen, a DIY screenprinting program, was just the ticket – it took only a few minutes to get this fabulous glittery chandelier.

To make, you’ll need to gather these supplies:

T-Shirt

Simply Screen Stencil Chandelier 

Simply Screen Glue 

Simply Screen Glitter Precious Metal 

T-shirt form, or something to put in between the t-shirt while crafting

Parchment Paper

Iron

Here are the goods (minus the glitter pack, which I couldn’t find when I took this photo).  I’m ready to get my craft on!

Make sure that you put something between your t-shirt and lay it down on a flat surface – smooth the stencil down firmly wherever you want the image to go (the stencil is self-adhesive).

Place a line of glue across the top of the screen.  I’ll show you why in the next step.

Using the squeegee that comes with the stencil, spread the glue down the front in smooth strokes.  I repeated several times until the glue covered the image, making sure to get it in every part of the design. You can even go side to side – just make sure not to get any on the t-shirt!

Peel off the stencil and let the glue stand for 30 seconds.  Then sprinkle glitter all over the design, making sure to cover all areas well.  You might want to do this outside, or at least in an area that be glitterized.  Don’t shake yet!

Allow the adhesive to dry for three hours, and then place parchment paper over the top. Iron for 30 seconds on the cotton setting.  Shake off the excess glitter and your design is done!

One other thing – Simply Screen also comes with some great paints, so you can combine paint and glitter to your heart’s content.  Fun, huh?

Enter to win a 25 yard box of  Steam-A-Seam!

Steam-A-Seam Lite is a sticky back light fusible web. It sticks temporarily (one side) when applied, and bonds permanently (both sides) when ironed. Made especially for sheer and lightweight fabrics, it allows you to apply delicate trims and lace with ease! Creates softer and more supple hems, seams and applique. Complete instructions included. 12″x 25 yd Box

Every Friday we’ll post a giveaway on Think Crafts and all you have to do is comment on the blog post answering the question of the week. We’ll pick the winner and contact them via email. Deadline is midnight tonight and the winner will be announced Monday. One entry per person please.

Question of week: What are you doing for the 4th of July?

Do you have a little princess that likes to play dress up?  I highly suggest a magic wand!  This is actually an inexpensive yard decoration that I found.  With supplies that I already had on hand, I was able to make a wand fit for a princess on a budget.  Keep in mind that because this is wood, it’s for older princesses only!  Always make sure to use with adult supervision.

To make, you’ll need to gather these supplies:

“Magic” Wand – decorative wood stick
FolkArt Acrylic Paint – Ocean Cruise, Wicker White, Perfect Purple, Kelly Green or the colors of your choice
Art Institute Glitter – Blue Hawaii (Ultrafine Opaque), Celery (Ultrafine Opaque), Angel Dust (Ultrafine Transparent)�
Mod Podge Gloss�
Flat Paint Brush and Liner Brush
Ribbon – 6 feet of your choice, I used white chiffon

Using your flat paint brush, paint your flower first.

Paint the handle and the leaves next.  If your wand has black print on it like mine, it will take several coats.  I used the smaller liner brush on the petals and to get around the edges of my flower.  Allow to dry.

Using the end of your brush handle, dot white polka dots on the main body of the flower.  Allow to dry.

It’s time to apply glitter in the areas of interest – I’ll show you an example with the center of the flower.  Paint Mod Podge in the area that you want glittered.

Using your glitter (I have one of these cool dispensers), spread the glitter all over the Mod Podge.  Allow to dry and then tap on the side of something (like a table) to get ride of the excess.  You can see that I did it on the leaves as well – I also went back and added some on the white polka dots.  It’s very sparkly!

Allow your wand to dry completely overnight before giving it to your princess.  I highly recommend adding some ribbon tied around the handle for some extra flair.

My parents re-did their backyard, so I decided to make them a birdhouse in celebration.  They aren’t as kitschy as I am, but I still think they will appreciate this gnome and mushroom birdhouse.  If they don’t love the gnome or the mushrooms, they will surely love the woodgrain roof.  It’s magical! 

To make, you’ll need to gather these supplies: 

Wood Birdhouse
Mod Podge Outdoor
FolkArt Paint – Fresh Foliage, Burnt Umber, Pure Orange
Martha Stewart Woodland Collection – 12” x 12” paper pad, stickers and letters
Cardstock scraps
Craft Glue
Flat Paint Brush
Scissors or Craft Knife
Ruler
Pencil
Outdoor Sealer  

Choose a few sheets of paper to cover the sides of your birdhouse (except for the front).  Using your ruler, measure the size paper you’ll need and then cut it down to fit with the craft knife.  Set aside. 

Paint your birdhouse.  I chose to paint the roof with Burnt Umber and the sides with Fresh Foliage.  The only side you’ll have to completely cover is the front – all of the other sides are going to be covered with paper. 

You can’t see it here, but later I went back and covered the perch with some Pure Orange.  It needed a special touch! 

This is the fun part.  Keep in mind that Outdoor Mod Podge is thick, but that is intentional.  Working one side at a time, spread a medium layer of Mod Podge on your birdhouse. 

Immediately smooth your paper down thoroughly.  Use an old credit or gift card to get underneath the roof, and make sure to smooth *really* well.  Complete the other two sides and the roof.  Allow to dry for 15 – 20 minutes. 

You are now ready to coat the entire birdhouse.  Give it a medium layer of Mod Podge, allow to dry for 15 – 20 minutes and then repeat.  Allow to dry. 

When it comes to the front, that is your embellishment area, so decorate it how you like!  I added my parents’ last name, the gnome and then some mushrooms I cut out with my die cutter.  I had some extra cardstock lying around.  This is the time to decorate to your heart’s content.  Seal everything with the Outdoor Mod Podge and allow to dry overnight. 

Once your birdhouse is dry, it will be slightly tacky – to remedy this and to give the birdhouse an extra protective layer, I highly recommend using a clear outdoor sealer so that your project will last for years to come.

Enter to win the Kandi Professional Rhinestone Applicator! 

Kandi Applicators are just the tools you will need to add sparkle, glitz and glamour! Using this applicator makes embellishing so quick, easy and fun that you will want to use it on everything: sewing, quilting, jeans, t-shirts, hats, purses, scrapbooks, crafts and more. Use to apply crystals, pearls, nailheads and rhinestudes. Simply heat the tool and you are ready to go.

Every Friday we’ll post a giveaway on Think Crafts and all you have to do is comment on the blog post answering the question of the week. We’ll pick the winner and contact them via email. Deadline is midnight tonight and the winner will be announced Monday. One entry per person please.

Question of week “Who is your crafting hero?”

I’ve been helping my mom move, and in the process have helped her decide where to hang the numerous photos, prints, and paintings. One little set of butterflies reminded me of the hours we’d spent indulging in the craft that produced them. They were worth reproducing, as well as introducing to others, so I went home and made a pair for myself.

You’ll need very little to make your own:

• Two wooden drapery rings 
• Paper with a repeating pattern 
• Silicone adhesive/sealer 
• Clear stiff plastic, or a background paper you like
• A snippet of ribbon in a coordinating color

What you’re going to do is create shaped layers that will simulate a 3-dimensional object, so first choose a picture you have at least three copies of that will fit inside a drapery ring. Wrapping paper is great for that, or you can use three identical note cards. 

Cut one image out in its entirety. It’s the bottommost picture you’ll use. Figure out what’s going to stick out farther than the first picture and cut that out. Your last picture, you’ll cut so that only the parts that stick out the most remain.

(I cheated. I wanted to my butterfly to be a little bigger, so I used an extra set of wings. You can ignore that step, or copy it, your choice!)

Trace a circle that’s a little smaller than the outside dimension of your drapery ring on a sheet of clear plastic, and cut out. (The lid from a box of greeting cards works well for this.) I like the clear plastic because when the butterflies are on the wall, their background will automatically match the room, but you can use a pretty paper as your background if you prefer. If you do that, you’ll want to use a fairly heavy paper so it won’t be flimsy.

Now glue your first, largest, layer to the circle. I glued down my extra pair of wings and then glued the full butterfly atop that. This layer is flat.

Take the middle sized layer, and shape it a bit, curving the wings, and making a crease along the body where the wings join.

The silicone adhesive is what you’ll use to hold the shape of the layers. Put a little blob of it where it will support an upward curve. Toothpicks work well for getting good placement. The advantage of the silicone is that it’s both malleable and sticky. If you think the layer looks like it sticks out too much, just squish down on it a little, or you can pull up a bit on the paper if you want more depth. The silicone holds its shape while acting as glue, too.

You won’t be using much silicone, but do work in a well-ventilated area.

Do the same thing for the remaining layers.

Let dry. Flip over and glue to the back of the drapery ring. Carefully twist the metal loop at the top of the drapery ring so that it faces you. Tie a bow at the base of the drapery ring’s hanging loop.

Here’s an activity that’s so fun everyone will want to do it, and so simple you can tell the kids, “Sure!” when they ask if they can make some, too.  It’s also made with things you most likely have hanging around the house already, which, to my mind, makes it “practically perfect in every way”.  We’re talking custom refrigerator magnets here.

You’ll need:

• Sheet magnet material. If you have  little magnetic calendars businesses sometimes hand out, those work great.
• Glue 
• Images and objects

Notice that list says “Images and objects”. Don’t let the fact that most refrigerator magnets are flat limit you. You can uses anything you like that has a flat back for gluing—photos, bookmarks, blobs of fused glass, buttons, small tiles, stickers, broken jewelry, school pictures, beer mats, whatever strikes you as fun or attractive.

If you’re using a photo or other paper image, cut it almost to size but leave a bit of a border. Glue your image or object to the magnet sheet, and let dry.

Once dry, preserve and protect your creation with decoupage medium, DuraClear, or clear Contac Paper. (Contac paper is a good choice if you’ve printed your own images, as inkjet inks may smear if you use a liquid protectant.)

When the coating is dry, cut out the magnet(s) and you’re done! Don’t get stuck in a rectangle rut when you cut; shaped magnets can be especially appealing.

And remember the men! The magnets below are small collages using stickers:

Last step:  Redecorate your fridge!

Summertime. Sandals, hula hoops, water balloons, picnics, and filling the sidewalks with colorful chalk art.

What’s even more fun than gettin’ down and drawing on concrete? Making your own sidewalk chalk first, and it’s easy!

You’ll need:

• Plaster of Paris 
• Food coloring, tempura paints, or acrylic paints 
• Water
• Mixing containers and a spoon
• Molds

You could probably figure out what to do just from that list, but I have some tips to go with it.

You’ll use two parts water to one part Plaster of Paris. Pour the water into your mixing container, and add the coloring agent you’ve chosen to that. Then add the plaster of Paris.

Add your color to water

Add Plaster

The thing about plaster of Paris is that stirring it makes it set up faster. Adding the color to the water means less stirring, and more time to work with the goop. Warm or hot water also makes the plaster set up more quickly.

Wet your mold before pouring the plaster into it, to make the chalk easier to remove when it’s hardened.  Don’t worry if you slop a little on or around the edges; it will flake off easily later. Give the mold a jiggle or two, to settle the plaster and smooth it out.

Molds can be anything you like. Ice cube trays work well, as would popsicle or candy molds. I’ve even used the tubes from inside toilet paper, wrapped in plastic film, and just torn them off when the plaster was set. By happy circumstance, I ran across molds made specifically for making chalk at Goodwill.

The last step is to let the plaster set up firmly. Don’t get impatient to see your chalk “all done” and try to turn it out before its time, or you’ll get what I got—broken chalk!

Hats are nice, but crowns are better! Could there be a better way to herald spring than to proclaim yourself Queen for a Day? I think not. I’m going to show you how, with a little imagination and elbow grease, you can build yourself a ‘one-of-a-kind’ crown, worthy of any Palace!

For this project, the most challenging part will be to find a base on which to build. I find that the stainless & silver plate aisle at Goodwill is a good bet. For my example, I am using a re purposed casserole holder. You could also build a base using fabric, cardboard, wire – or any number of things but I like the built-in filigree of casserole holders.

Other materials might include:

10 – 12 gauge wire
Vintage buttons or millinery
Ribbons or rhinestones 
Glitter stems
Ball chain
Fabric (about 20″ square)
Old belt
Vintage Christmas trim
Pearl or beaded strand�

You will also need:

Hot glue gun
 Hole punch or drill
Metallic Paint 
Paint (reddish brown & black)
Needle nose pliers
 Scissors

I’m going to explain how I built this example, but there are many variations on what I’m going to show you. I wanted an antique looking crown, so the first thing I did was paint over the metal with a watered down mixture of (mostly) reddish brown and (a little bit of) black paint. If you find that your paint does not want to stick to the metal surface of your frame, you can either heat the metal, or sand it lightly.

Because I was going for something a little rustic, I punched holes a bit randomly around the top of the frame and used rusted bailing wire for my braces. These wire braces can be in a variety of shapes. I wanted the top of my crown to have a traditional shape, so I went with an ogee silhouette. I bound them together in the center and left them at odd lengths – entwined.

At this point you will need to choose a fabric that will make up the inner top part of the crown. Cut a square about 20″ wide and holding the crown upside down, set the fabric inside the frame – creating a bowl of sorts. Stuff newspaper into the bowl and adjust fabric as needed. Cut the excess off and hot glue the edges to the inside of the frame. Keep the newspaper inside the crown until you are completely done. It provides structure while you are building.

Next I ripped 3/4″ strips of a complimentary fabric and set them behind my wire bracing. I used gold glitter stems and a short length of pearl trim to create little ‘buttons’. I hot-glued these onto the fabric with the wire sandwiched in the middle. (Both the glitter stems and the pearl trim were antiqued using the same reddish brown & black paint.)

Once each wire has a strip of fabric and your ‘buttons’ are attached, you can begin to work on the outside of the crown frame. I used a combination of ripped silk, vintage christmas tinsel and antique millinery trim for the upper band and then along the bottom I used an old belt and a ball chain. I painted the belt with metallic gold paint and stuck a strip of vintage christmas ribbon behind it. You can just see it peeking up behind the ball chain.

To finish it off, I wrapped the top with an antiqued string of plastic pearls!�
Et Viola – vous etre une reine du jour!

I am obsessed with pretty spring birds, I admit it!  I had such fun making these today out of Shrinky Dinks, and you will too!  Here is what you need:

• White shrink plastic
• Colored pencils 
• Big & Glitzy Glitter Glue  (I used Aquamarine and Ruby)
• Scissors 
• Hole punch 
• Ribbon 
• Your oven

Try this:

1.  Print bird pattern.  Lay it under shrink plastic.  Trace with pencil.  You should get two birds out of a sheet of plastic.

2.  Color birds with colored pencils.  Put the kids to work, have them color! Cut out the birds.  Use hole punch to punch a hole in the top wing.

3.  Bake in the oven on a cookie sheet following the instructions on the shrink plastic package.  See how much they shrink?

The color intensifies when they shrink.  Pretty!

4.  Squeeze a little glitter glue on the bird.  Spread with a small brush or with your finger.  Let glitter dry.  Even prettier!

So this is one of those rare combinations of a project that boys will love (it involves pounding, what boy, well what kid doesnt love pounding away at things with a hammer) and a result that is just about guaranteed to become fabulous keepsake or gift.

The idea behind this is to literally pound the color out of flowers and into paper. Because you want as much color to soak into the paper as possible, use good thick drawing paper or even better, watercolor paper for the project. The possibilities don’t stop at book marks either, note cards, book covers and framed art are all great uses for pounded flower prints.

Here’s What You Need

Watercolor or good drawing paper
Paper towels
Brightly colored flowers (pansies gave the best results)
Hammer or rolling pin
Hole punch
Scissors
Ribbon 

Lay the flowers out on a surface that can take a little abuse, a cutting board works perfectly for this, and cover first with a sheet of paper and then with a paper towel.  

Gently (well, not too gently, but not so hard that the paper gets holes or shifts) tap the paper with the hammer or end of a rolling pin, making sure you cover all of the flower.

The color should start seeping up through the paper towel and if you peek under it you should be able to see the outline of each flower on the back of the paper.

Once you’ve pounded enough, flip the paper over and carefully brush off the remains of the flower. Allow the paper to dry before cutting to size and, if you like, adding a ribbon to the top to help mark your place.

Are you interested in decoupage, but don’t know where to begin?  Have I got the project for you!  Coasters are great for home décor and gifts, and are the perfect project to start with if you have never used Mod Podge.  I got mine from the dollar bin, but these are easy to find.  There is always a set needing a little love.  Set aside a few hours one afternoon, grab your Mod Podge and you’re ready to go.

To make, you’ll need to gather these supplies:

Coasters  

K & Company Scrapbook paper  – 3 sheets coordinating

Ranger Adirondack Alcohol Ink Set Cottage Path  (I used Meadow)

Mod Podge Outdoor 

Flat Paint Brush 

Scissors  or Craft Knife 

Ruler 

Pencil or Pen

Cotton cloth or facial round – something disposable for alcohol ink application

Sandpaper  (optional)

Here are the coasters I started with.  They were only $1 for six!

I sanded my coasters lightly because the paper on top had a coating, and I wanted to rough it up so that the Mod Podge would stick well.

Place one coaster down on the paper and trace – repeat for as many coasters as you have.  I used three different sheets of coordinating papers, two coasters came out of each sheet.  When you are done tracing, cut out the coaster shapes with your craft knife or scissors.

Spread your Mod Podge down on the surface of the coaster in a medium layer.  Apply the paper and SMOOTH thoroughly until the air bubbles are removed.  Wipe away any Mod Podge that comes out the edges with your brush.  Repeat with the other coasters and then allow them to dry for 15 – 20 minutes.

DO NOT Mod Podge over the top yet.

The alcohol ink adds a little extra color and distressing effect around the edges.  I grabbed a bowl and mixed some Meadow ink with water.

Using your cloth or facial round, apply the ink to the edges.  Add more ink for a stronger color effect.  Allow to dry.

Once they are dry, seal them with at least two more coats your Mod Podge.  I used the Outdoor to seal (even though my Gloss is sitting nearby) – this is the most water resistant!

Your coasters are finished, but before you use them, I HIGHLY recommend spraying with an outdoor sealer to make them waterproof.

I have a boatload of books and not enough bookshelves.  I also have a craft book selection that I like to have easy access to on my desk, but the stack wasn’t working out.  So I decided to make these bookends.

To make, you’ll need to gather these supplies:

Bookends – any will do.  I got these from a friend

K & Company scrapbook paper  – 1 sheet (you might need 2 if your bookends are larger)

FolkArt Acrylic Paint   (whatever coordinates with your paper).  I used:

•             Light Periwinkle  
•             Pumpkin  
•            Turner’s Yellow  
•             Wicker White  

Mod Podge Gloss  

Flat Paint Brush  

Scissors  or Craft Knife  and Mat  

Ruler  

Pencil

First trace your bookends onto the BACK of your sheet of paper.  Cut out.

Trim the sheets of paper down to fit your bookends exactly.

Paint your bookends using the orange paint.  For complete coverage, you’ll need about three or four coats.  Set aside to dry.

While you are waiting for the bookends to dry, put a coat of Mod Podge on your paper sheets.  Coat the front, allow to dry, coat the back.  Set aside.

Tip: If you don’t have a cutout in your bookends like I do, you can skip this step.

Coat the back of the bookend with a medium layer of Mod Podge.  Apply evenly.

Place your paper down on the back of the bookend and smooth thoroughly.  You’ll notice that I used a brayer, and then to get down into the crack I used an old Starbucks card.  These are my favorite tools for smoothing!  Make sure you get the air bubbles out and then set aside to dry for 15 – 20 minutes.

Once the bookends are dry, coat both of them with Mod Podge.  Cover the fronts, backs and bottoms.  Give a first coat, allow to dry and then apply at least two more coats.  Allow to dry.

Once your bookends are dry, use the end of a paintbrush and the other coordinating paint colors to create polka dots around the cutout.  Allow to dry.

Tip: If your bookends don’t have a cutout, add a decorative shape cut out of paper to the front of your bookends for an accent.  Then you can use the polka dot method just like I did!

Here they are, holding my books and magazines!  Aren’t they great?  Quick, easy and perfect for some fun home décor.