Think Crafts Blog - Craft Ideas and Projects - CreateForLess

I’ve been fusing glass for about 5 years now and it’s a craft that is always fascinating. Glass fusing is basically layering several pieces of glass with the same COE and then fusing the pieces together in a kiln or heat source.  The layers of glass create a new single piece of glass.  You can then go on to slump the fused glass using a mold to create bowls, plates, and all kinds of art.

The process is time consuming.  You must create a design or use a pattern.  You need to cut the pieces of glass.  Clean all the pieces to remove any oils or dust.  You then layer your pieces onto a kiln shelf (that is either prepared with kiln wash to prevent sticking or with a piece of shelf paper). You then must fire or bake the glass in a kiln for a timed process.  You can’t just super heat glass because it will shatter so you slowly ramp up the heat in the kiln until the glass melts and then slowly ramp the heat down.  There are schedules prepared by the manufacturers of the glass to help you time the firing.  Once fired, the glass must cool before you can continue.  Fused pieces can take several hours or several days to create. The end result is worth it!

Diamond Tech has created a product kit that turns glass fusing into a very do-able, easy to understand process with its Fuseworks Beginner’s Fusing Kit.  Imagine fusing glass in your microwave in minutes! I have to be very honest, I couldn’t believe fusing could be done so quickly, but all my doubts were gone after my first fusing with the kit and its mini Fuseworks Microwave Kiln!!!

You get a ton of stuff in the kit: an assortment of 90 COE glass, Dichroic bits and pieces (beautiful patterned glass), millefiori glass (small discs that have patterns like flowers and such), confetti glass (thin shards of glass), kiln paper, glass cutter, hot mitts, and jewelry findings (earring sets and bails), plus very well written instructions.  You can make many fused jewelry pieces with the supplies included in the kit.

And it really is as easy as cutting your glass, laying down the kiln paper, stacking your glass, putting the top on the kiln, placing the kiln in your microwave and microwaving for a few minutes!!!  I was thrilled with my pieces and I didn’t have to fire up my kiln… all I needed was my microwave. Your piece is even annealed during the 40-50 minute cool down.

A few words to know when fusing:

Anneal: this is a process where the glass becomes its strongest, all glass pieces should be annealed or there is a good chance of the glass cracking over time.

COE: Coeffcient of Expansion, this is usually given to you as a number: 90 COE, 104 COE.  All glass has a COE number and you can only fuse glass pieces that have the same COE number.  In other words you can’t mix a piece of glass with a 90 COE with a piece of glass with a 104 COE.  Manufacturers will give you the COE of their glass.

Dichroic Glass: A glass with multiple micro-layers of metal oxides which give the glass optical properties.

Dichroic glass shimmers when fused.

Millefiori: A glass work technique where rods of patterned glass are formed and then cut into small discs.

Many discs of millfiori are fused to create this pendant.

Check out my next blog when guest blogger Jeanne Baruth goes into detail about using this new Fuseworks Microwave Kiln!

Guest Blogger: Rita S. LeVine, Diamond Tech

Mosaics add charm and whimsy to any room in your home or a corner of your garden. Mosaics are not only beautiful to display but they are truly a lot of fun to make!

Traditional mosaics are made by cutting tiny pieces of glass and fitting them together with just enough space between each piece for grout. Traditions change however and today’s contemporary mosaics are not only made from glass but broken china pieces, buttons, shells and even Grandma’s rhinestone jewelry.

To begin, choose an item on which to mosaic, my favorites are garage sale fountains, small bistro table and stepping stones but generally mosaics can be applied to any and all surfaces. If you’ve chosen a smooth surface rough it up first using fine grit sandpaper or score it using a craft knife. A rough surface will allow the adhesive to form a better grip. Next, decide on a pattern for your mosaic. For inspiration visit your local library or book store for a pattern or mosaic book. Once you have an idea for a design, draw it on paper and transfer it to the surface using carbon paper and a sharpened pencil or simply draw it directly on the surface.  

Nipping to size your pieces for the mosaic.

As with any craft project the proper tools are essential. Gather or purchase a good multipurpose adhesive (we prefer Liquid Nails), grout, tile nippers (for nipping tile), wheeled glass nippers (for nipping glass), a large sponge, latex gloves, sealer, protective eyewear, drop cloth or newspaper for work surface protection.

Now let’s have some fun choosing tesserae! Tesserae is the small pieces used to make a mosaic. China, pottery pieces, stones, marbles and cut glass are popular forms of tesserae. Ceramic and glass tiles are another form of tesserae. Ceramic tiles have glossy color fired onto the top surface of a ceramic or porcelain tile. Glass tile or Vitreous tile has rich color that extends throughout the body of the tile. Either has smooth front and textured back for better adhesive grip. 

Gluing pieces down onto surface.

Before gluing the tesserae to your surface determine the best placement and fit. Nip pieces using either a tile or wheeled glass nippers to desire shape, ensuring a proper fit. It is always best to work from the center of the design outward making sure you stop 1/4 ” from the edge of the surface. Leave 1/8″ space between each piece of tesserae for grout.

When you are ready to glue, pick up each piece place a small amount of glue on the backside and press firmly into place. Hold in place until there is no movement in the tesserae. If the surface is rounded, place it on its side using pillows to hold it in place as you mosaic. Continue this process until the design is complete. Allow glue to dry according to manufacture’s instructions. 

Applying the grout.

The final step in mosaics is applying the grout. Grout can dramatically effect on the look of your mosaic. Grouts are available in a multitude of colors, select a shade that either blends or contrast with the tesserae. Mixing grout is quite simple. Wearing a disposable glove, follow the manufacturer’s directions and mix just enough for the project. Once mixed apply to the surface, spread the grout into all the nooks and crannies. Wait about 15 minutes for grout to set. Begin to gently wipe away the excess grout using a paper towel taking care not to pull the grout out of tile spaces.  It is very important to remove any grout on the tiles surface before grout is completely dry. Using the soft cloth, buff the tiles to a clean shine. Allow 24 hours for the mosaic piece to dry thoroughly.

Cleaning all excess grout from mosaic.

References:

Diamond Tech

Society of American Mosaic Artists

So many of our current trendy crafts include some hand writing.  Crafts like scrapbooking, card making, collage, altered art, and even painting.  At the very least you should be adding your signature to your crafts as the finishing touch!

I don’t know about you, but as my god son would say, “My handwriting sucks!” I hated penmanship in school (dating myself with that word!) and most of the time I’m in such a hurry that I can’t even read what I’ve written.  Heck, I’m so lazy that my signature is just my first inital and last name and even then I’m just scribbling always remembering to dot the i! Many use the computer and its heavenly wealth of fonts to make their crafts neater, but the whole point of being creative is to express yourself through your own mind, heart, and hands.

My most treasured keepsake from my mother is a silly old calendar on which she wrote a little something each day. I treasure it because seeing her hand written words makes me feel close to her again.  If she had used a computer, rub on letters, or sticker phrases, I don’t think the calendar would have much meaning to me. 

Maybe I should have been a doctor, my handwriting is horrible!

Here are some handwriting tips I learned while teaching at a scrapbooking expo:

Practice. Practice. Practice! If you don’t write often, you’ll “forget” how.

Make it easier with light marks to keep your handwriting straight and not marching up and down or slanting.  Keep pencil marks light. A heavy line will leave imprints on your page and be more difficult to erase. These imprints can also affect the way the paper takes colored pencils, chalks and watercolors.

A heavy-handed eraser can take the color off white core paper, patterned or solid. Go lightly!

Small, evenly placed characters look clean and precise.

Concentrate.  Don’t be distracted.  Don’t be doing four things at once. You want your lettering to look good, so take the time to do it right.

Whether you use a template or create guidelines yourself, be diligent about it. A little advance planning goes a long way.

It is great to copy and emulate other fonts or people’s writing, but the point here is to get your writing in your books. So find a style that suits you. Are you someone who loves cursive? Do you write in all caps, all lowers, or a mixture of both? Make sure that your style shines through in your letters.

Sometimes the faster you go, the better the results can be.  Just making sure that you’re concentrating. If you’re trying for a carefree look, make your guide lines, pencil in your text for correct spacing, and then go for it!

Use a straight edge for your verticals. If you’re doing large letters for a title, or even for your journaling, use a ruler to make your verticals. This is a trick architects use to make their printing look prefect every time.

Use shadowing for a great effect. It softens the subtle imperfections in your writing, making your letters look better. Grab a Black and Platinum Zig Writer and create letters that jump off your page.

Do not be too critical of yourself. Hand lettering is not, and will never be, perfect. And it shouldn’t be.

Air dry clay is often thought of as a child’s art and craft supply, but it’s so much more than that!  If you enjoy polymer clay, you’ll also enjoy paper clay.  You don’t have to bake this type of clay as it air dries. 

Materials

• Paper clay (also called air-dry clay):  This clay air-dries, no need to heat or bake.
• Rolling pin:  To evenly flatten clay if necessary for your project.
• Wax or freezer paper
• Rubberstamps, clay tools, molds or texture sheets:  To make patterns or images into the clay.
• Craft knife, NuBlade^TM, tissue blade (or other thin cutting tool).

Step by Step

1. Wash your hands thoroughly and make sure your work surface is clean.  Clay picks up every dust or particle on the work surface and your hands.

2. Roll clay out to about ¼” thickness or thickness desired.  Stamp an image into the clay with a rubberstamp or press clay into any type of mold and remove.  Trim with cutting tool if needed.  You can also hand form or sculpt the clay.

3. Place on wax paper to dry, turning every few hours for even drying.  To avoid curling you might want to weigh down the clay after a few hours of drying.

4. You can also use this clay to sculpt.  It easily can be colored, painted, inked, chalked, glittered, and otherwise embellished. 

Using an air dry clay, Helen Bradley created this watch for Jewlery Creations #2 Magazine (CK Media) using a clay from AMACO.

Tips

• Clay adheres to most surfaces with a dab or two of glue.
• You can cut this clay while still wet or when it has dried. 
• Use a wet fingertip to smooth rough edges while clay is still wet.
• Use a fine sanding paper or emery board to smooth clay edges once clay has dried.
• You can paint, ink, or chalk a dry piece of paper clay.
• You can add paint, ink, or chalk to wet clay to color it!
• Make an embellishment for the front of a scrapbook, diary or journal.
• Another wonderful way to use your rubberstamps.  You can make buttons to coordinate your designs and projects.
• Store unused clay in an airtight container like a zip-lock plastic bag.  You can’t add water to clay to restore, once it dries out, it’s not re-useable!
• There are wonderful cutting, shaping, and design tools on the market for clays, but don’t forget that toothpicks, paper clips, cookie cutters, and pencils are handy tools too.

I found some great sites with fun projects:

Colorful Fun

Earthy Heart Pendant

Upscale Designer

Another wonderful design by Helen Bradley for AMACO. This design was also published in Jewelry Creations #2, CK Media.

Above is a mini scrapbook page I created for a pet scrapbook I’m keeping.  I used fabric paper and just did a little primitive stitching around the edges.  I wanted to add stitches for texture and to highlight the quilt in the photo. This page was featured on a segment of Creative Living (PBS) for CreateForLess.

I love sewing.  Machine sewing or hand sewing, there is something very soothing about working with fabric, thread, and a needle.  I gathered up a few random tips I’ve learned from my scrapbook sewing experiences and these tips can also be used for other paper crafts!

• When using a sew machine always use a scrap piece of paper (the same weight as the paper you want to use for your scrapbook page) and run some test stitches to get the feel of how your machine sews the paper.
• Experiment with the stitch width of your machine for different looks.
• Sewing machines do a great job for sewing a border.
• Sew on a pocket for your page.  Randomly sew across, up, down, and diagonal creating a unique background paper.
• Use any decorative stitches your sewing machine might have.
• Always make sure there is no adhesive on the front or back of anything you are sewing through.  Adhesive can jam up your sewing machine.
• When hand sewing you might have an easier time if you paper punch small holes where you plan to hand sew.  It’s much easier than hoping your needle can pierce the paper evenly.
• Threads and fibers can be used to dangle charms, paper roses and small buttons.
• When hand sewing you might want to lightly trace your pattern or design onto the scrapbook page or cardstock (for a card).
• Try using embroidery flosses and threads, tapestry yarn, tatting thread, metallic threads and specialty yarns.  The variety makes for a fun textured page or card.
• To keep fibers from unraveling dab just a touch of clear paper glue to each raw end.  You can also use a fray stopping liquid.
• A dab of clear nail polish will hold any knot and keep it from coming through the paper.  Make sure the knot is to the back of your scrapbook page.
• Try mixing colors and textures of fibers for a page.  Use thick fibers to frame your title, captions or photos.
• Don’t throw out your scraps of threads and fibers.  Keep them in a small box and use them for smaller projects.
• Pulling a thread over beeswax or thread conditioner will keep the threads from tangling and knotting.  Beeswax will stiffen thread, while thread conditioner will soften threads.