Bottle Art Book Review

Crafts, Glossaries, Green Crafting No Comments

October is National Book Month and we’re celebrating by slashing prices on selected project idea books. Choose from a wide variety of paper craft, quilting, home décor and craft books at our National Book Month Sale!

By Recycled Crafts Contributor, Anitra from the blog “Coffee Pot People”.

Design Originals Bottle Art Book

Design Originals Bottle Art Book – There’s an expression I use from time to time, “A good idea poorly executed.” I’m going to be honest here, and say that as I turned the pages of this book, I found it running through my head fairly often. Tastes differ, of course, but a lot of the projects shown just looked, well, not too great to me.

Having said that, I’ll also say I like this book. A lot.

Why? First, because some the projects really are pretty. And second, because it takes one simple medium–bottles–and turns it into…uh…wait a minute…counting here…at least eighteen different types of art. You can use the instructions in this book to make:

Wind Chimes

Earrings

A Variety of Jewelry Even black boards

There are also instructions for making photo holders, light catchers, terrariums, candle holders, goblets and tumblers, vases, bells, and decorated bottles.

Even better, when the author instructs you to use a technique, she doesn’t assume you know how. She has instructions for soldering a frame around a piece of glass, for cutting bottles into slices, for firing in a kiln (and for the first time, I want one!), working with polymer clay, and more.

In short, I think this book is well worth the purchase price, and that just about anyone is going to find it a very useful addition to his/her crafting library. Hope you will, too!

Showing some how-to instructions

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Use Your Words

Crafts, Glossaries, Green Crafting, Paper Crafts, Projects, Rubber Stamping, Techniques and Mediums 2 Comments

By Recycled Crafts Contributor, Anitra from the blog “Coffee Pot People”. 

I’m a Janie-come-lately to stamping, and quickly learning to love it after several recent sessions making tags, decorated envelopes, and ATCs (Artist Trading Cards). I’ve taken to haunting the aisles and websites where rubber stamps may be found, and am intrigued by the possibilities, especially of stamped words.

One thing I’ve noticed, though, is that the words I might want often aren’t available, and if they are they’re sometimes the wrong size or font.

The other day, I ran across a whole aisle full of foam rubber shapes and alphabet letters. Letters? Letters are what you use to make words, and rubber is what rubber stamps are made of! Talk about a light bulb coming on. My options as to size and font might still be limited, but I suddenly had at my disposal any word I wanted. 

Here’s how you can build your stamp vocabulary. Start with:

The first step is to figure out what word(s) you want to put together. With Halloween coming up, I wanted to do a few that would be good for Halloween cards and tags—Boo, Eek, Yikes. I also wanted a stand-alone “Happy”, something I could put in front of any holiday, occasion, or thing I wanted.

Once you’ve chosen your word, there’s one very important thing to remember: You have to apply the word to the foundation piece backwards, and the letters themselves also have to be backwards. If you don’t do that, you’ll be stamping backwards words and letters.

A note on the foundation for your stamp: You don’t have to use something see-through for it, but if you do, you’ll be able to see exactly where you’re stamping when you use it.

The easiest way to do that is to lay out the letters the way you want the word to appear, on a piece you won’t be using for that particular stamp. Lay the actual foundation piece on top of your word, making a ‘word sandwich’, pick everything up, and carefully flip it over and lay it down.  (It’s rather like turning a molded salad out onto a plate, you know?)

Glue the letters down. When the glue is thoroughly dry, you can peel the paper backing off the letter stickers. (Remember, you turned the letters over because they had to be backwards.)Your stamp will be assembled, but it will be sticky. Don’t worry about that. A trip or two to the ink pad will take all that away, or you can give them a light dusting of powder, which will also de-stickify them.

That’s it! You made a word stamp!

Here are some of my words:

Just a few more bits:

  • Some letters are reversible. Take advantage of that, and just stick them down as usual.
  • Foam letters are very flexible and malleable. Take advantage of that, too.
  • I didn’t find any lower case letters, but judging from past experience there are very few you can’t make with a few judicious snips to the upper case ones.
  • The word ‘OH’ is also ‘HO’ if you turn the stamp upside down, useful for Santa’s “HO HO HO” later! ‘XO’ for making ‘XOXO’ is also ‘OX’ when turned upside down…Well, you probably won’t ever use that, though.
  • The bits of foam from inside the circle of the ‘O’, ‘B’, ‘P’, etc. can be used to make a paw stamp, polka dots, and…?

I’d love to hear what words you decide to make!

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Zippers

Crafts, Glossaries, Sewing, Techniques and Mediums No Comments

By Sewing Contributor Jessica, from the blog “Life Sew Good”.  

Oh, for the love. (Can you just see me rolling my eyes?!) 

Seth Aaron, from Season 7 of Project Runway was the Zipper Super Star.  He used zippers all the time—and not strictly for practical purposes.  Why, oh why can’t I have this same love for zippers?  Probably because I pretend that I know how to sew them when really I don’t, which creates for major frustration and sewing projects that take way longer than they should.  So, instead of experiencing the same frustration I have in sewing zippers, learn from my mistakes and check out the tutorials that I have found most useful.

1.       Know what kind of zipper you need. 

*Are you using it on a skirt, jeans or other pants?  Sewing a centered or lapped closure is probably most appropriate.  There are several ways to do this.  This is one of the best video tutorials I found on how to do this.

*Are you using it on something more formal? Consider an invisible zipper.  Personally, I like to use this zipper on my skirts as well.  Now, here’s the deal with these puppies:  they are super easy IF you have a proper invisible zipper foot.  If you don’t, it’s way more work.  Coats & Clark makes zipper feet that work on various machines, but for the record, they won’t work on Brother machines, so order one; you won’t regret it.  The same woman who brought to you the best lapped zipper video, also made a very clear and wonderful invisible zipper video (Thanks, Susan) 

*Are you using it as an exposed zipper or decorative touch?  Make sure you buy a zipper that will complement your fabric.  There are many options out there, but if you don’t find what you are looking for, decorate your own zipper!  This is a really well done photo tutorial on how to install a decorative zipper.

2. Baste in a different color thread. 

Actually, I recently made this mistake in shooting photos I had intended for this post!  I was using brown thread on brown corduroy fabric and when I got to the point of tearing out my basting stitches, I could not tell which my basting stitches were and which my real stitches were.  It was especially problematic when they crossed.  Oopsy. 

3. Don’t skip steps.

If you really have an aversion to basting, then at least glue it or tape it for a few minutes.  If you want to have a finished, professional looking garment, then do it the right way the first time!

4. There are different methods to sewing zippers.  Find what works!

If you find one way that works for sewing your zippers, then stick with it; however, if you’re getting frustrated and not getting the results you need, then search other ways to insert your zipper! 

5. If you don’t do it a lot, you’ll forget. 

The only good solution to this is to sew many, many garments, so go for it!

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Free Stuff Friday!!

Contests, Free Stuff Friday!!, Glossaries, Quilting 25 Comments

Calling all quilters! We’ve got a giveaway for you! Enter to win two quilting design books, the C&T Publishing Ricky Tims Celtic Fantasy Book and  Adaptable Quilting Designs by Sue Patten.

 

With the Ricky Tims Celtic Fantasy Book add drama to your quilts with flowing Celtic appliqué designs like knots, trees, flowers and more. You get a full-size freezer paper pattern, plus 9 bonus quilt “skeletons” and 25 Celtic appliqué designs.

Adaptable Quilting Designs has quilting patterns were made specifically to address the need to do more than stitch-in-the-ditch in problem areas such as strips, squares, corners, and triangles. This much-needed addition to any quilter’s quilting pattern library is formatted for ease of shrinking or enlarging every design to fit the tricky spaces that happen on all quilts. Minimal text provides maximum space for inspiration or tracing. Over 2 dozen color photos provide additional visual instruction for the quiltmaker.

Every Friday we’ll post a giveaway on Think Crafts and all you have to do is comment on the blog post answering the question of the week. We’ll pick the winner and contact them via email. Deadline is midnight tonight and the winner will be announced Monday. One entry per person please. Contest opened to all US residents.

Question of week: What is your favorite summer time treat?

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Jewelry Making Jargon

Glossaries, Jewelry Making 2 Comments
Texture: refers to the physical surface qualities of the plant or flowers in an arrangement. Smooth, glossy, rough, soft. It can also refer to the size of leaves, twigs, or branches in an arrangement.
Wreath: flowers, twigs, grasses, and/or vines intertwined in a circular or continuous shape.
Alloy: metal made up of a mixture of two or more different metals. Common examples of alloys include bronze (a mixture of copper and tin), brass (copper and zinc), and pewter (tin with antimony, copper and sometimes lead
Annealed: softened by heat
Bail: metal triangle used to attach a bead or a pendant to a necklace
Baroque: irregular, rounded stone, glass or bead
Base Metal: non-precious metals used as a core for plating and gold-filled items; brass and nickel are common base metals in jewelry
Bead Loom: wood or plastic frame used to stretch warp threads for bead weaving
Bead Tip: jewelry finding used for attaching thread to a clasp. A knot sits inside a small concave shape attached to a bent metal loop
Beeswax: used to strengthen and smooth beading thread
Bell Cap: jewelry finding used to convert a bead or stone with no hole into a pendant using glue
Bib: necklace that fits close to the base of the neck and extends over the chest in the shape of child’s bib
Burr: roughness left by a tool in cutting wire or metal
Cabochon: a round or oval stone, cut and polished with one flat side (the back) and one smooth domed side (the front or face); afaceted cabochon is cut with faceted surfaces around the edge of the stone
Catches: used for necklaces and bracelets to attach or clasp one end to the other end
Choker: short necklace, usually 15 inches long, fitting snugly at the base of the neck
Coil: flat spiral of wire or metal
Crimp Bead: small, soft metal beads that are squeezed shut to secure loops of threading material fasteners onto clasps
Dog collar: wide choker, worn tightly around the neck
Drop: attachment to jewelry that allows bead or metal to dangle away from the main line of the jewelry piece
Eyepin: wire finding with a loop at one end. used for linking beads or beaded links together
Facet: flat, polished surface cut into a stone or bead
Findings: as in jewelry findings, head pins, eye pins, fastenings, brooch and earring fittings, and more
Gauge: measure of dimension
Gold: yellow colored, soft, shiny metal commonly used in jewelry. The purity of gold is measured in “karats.” 24 karat (or 24k) denotes pure or fine gold; 12k is 50% gold; 14k is about 58% gold. Gold that is less than 24k is actually an alloy
Gold-filled: thin layer of gold bonded to a base metal core. In gold-filled products, the gold layer must be at least 1/20th (5%) of the overall product, by weight
Gold-plated: very thin layer of gold bonded to a base metal core
Hat Pin: very straight, often long eye pin with a sharp end, which usually has a back or cover. Originally used to help the ladies keep on their hats, modern use is ornamental rather than functional. Most of pin is exposed to the eye
Head Pin: also known as eye pins; long wires with a flattened end, used for basic component in many bead style earrings or for attaching beads to any type of jewelry piece
Hoop: circular earrings
Jump Rings: small metal rings used to attach necklace fastenings and to join metal lines
Knot: knots are formed to each side of bead to separate, space, or secure
Lampwork: technique for making glass beads by hand. A glass rod or cane is held into a flame or “lamp” and wound around a mandrel. The bead is shaped or smoothed by rotating the mandrel through the flame
Lapel Pin: also known as a bar pin; eye pin is bent to form clasp, is threaded, and then bent again to hold beads in place and form a pin back; back of pin not exposed to the eye
Lapidary: cutting, shaping, polishing and creating jewelry from precious and semi-precious stones
Lavaliere: necklace with a drop of a single stone suspended from a chain
Loaf: block of clay with a pattern throughout; usually a square shape
Log: roll of clay that is thicker than a cane
Matinee: necklace 24 to 26 inches long; in Europe, 30 to 35 inches
Opera: necklace 28 to 30 inches long; in Europe, 48 to 90 inches, can extend to 120 inches
Opacity: quality of not allowing light to pass through (the quality of being opaque)
Opaque: not allowing light to pass through; solid
Paste: jewelry made of glass imitating faceted gemstones
Pendant: main bead or other “show” piece that is dropped from a necklace
Princess: necklace 20 to 21 inches long
Rope: string of beads, pearls, stones used to form a bracelet or necklace
Sautoir: long necklace popular in the 1920s; usually made of chains, beads, or pearls and ending in a tassel or fringe
Silver: white colored, soft, shiny metal, commonly used in jewelry. Like gold, silver is available in different levels of purity: the purest form, Fine silver, is 99.9% silver; Sterling silver is 92.5% silver, with other metals (usually copper) making up the remaining 7.5%; Coin silver is 90% silver with 10% copper. Nickel silver is an alloy of copper (65%), nickel and zinc – no silver at all
Silver-plated: a very thin layer of silver bonded to a base metal core
Split Ring: small base metal finding resembling a key-ring
Stud: as in earring, simple earring with no drops
Torsade: combination of several strands of pearls, chains, or beads twisted together into a single necklace
Translucent: allowing some light to pass through; objects seen through translucent material are diffused or indistinct
Transparent: easily seen through; allowing light to pass through without obscuring the ability to see objects on the other side
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Woodworking Jargon

Crafts, Glossaries No Comments
Arris: the sharp corner formed by the meeting of two adjacent surfaces of a board
Astragal: narrow, half-round molding
Backlash: slack or play in the adjustment mechanism of the plane
Baller: tool used to round over the end of a dowel
Barefaced Joint: joint in which one or more of its shoulders are eliminated
Bead: traditional decoration often used with a tongue-and- groove joint to hide the gap between the boards
Bedding Angle: angle at which the frog or bed of the plane holds the plane iron
Bench Planes: planes used to smooth the face and edges of a board
Bevel: angle other than 90 degrees; inside surface that is sharpened on a plane blade, chisel, or other cutting tool; tool used to mark angles; it consists of a stock or handle and an adjustable blade and the edge of the stock rests against the edge of a board and the blade rests across the face: also called a bevel square or sliding T bevel
Bow: distortion in a board that causes the face to curve from end to end. If you place the face of a bowed board on a flat surface the center of the board will rest on the surface while the ends are above the surface
Block Planes: small planes that fit into the palm of your hand used primarily for trimming
Block Cushion Grainer: wood-graining tool used to mechanically reproduce wood grains; it has a rubber face that is covered with concentric, semi-circular grooves
Boxing: process of adding a new piece of wood to the front of the mouth of the plane
Burnished surface: surface that has a smooth, polished look
Cabinet scraper: scraper with a cast-iron body that holds a scraper blade
Camber: slight convexity, arch, or curvature
Cambium: layer of cells just beneath the bark of a tree where new growth occurs
Carcass: basic box or frame of a cabinet
Chalking: dusty film of pigments left on the surface of weathered paint
Chamfer: beveled cut on an edge
Cheek: part of the joint that is parallel with the face or edge
Clearance angle: angle formed between the work and the underside of the cutting edge of the blade
Closed-grain: wood with no easily discernible pore structure; does not require filling to achieve a smooth finish
Combination Plane: any plane that can be used for more than one job
Common Pitch: refers to a plane iron held at 45 degrees to the work by the frog or bed
Compass Plane: plane used to make convex or concave shapes
Corner: on a board the corner is the place where the face, edge and end meet
Crook: distortion in the edge of a board that causes the edge to curve from end to end; when the edge is placed on a flat surface the center of the edge will touch the surface while the ends are above the surface
Cove: concave molding cut into the edge of the board
Crosscutting: process of cutting a board at approximately a right angle to the grain direction
Cutting Angle: angle formed between the work and the top of the blade
Dado: flat bottomed recess cut into the face of a board across the grain
Dress: improve or smooth the surface of the wood
Dust Nibs: tiny bumps in a finished surface caused by dust particles landing on the wet finish
Edges: the narrowest surfaces of a board that are approximately parallel with the grain direction
Edge-Grain Wood: term applied to quarter-sawed wood, particularly softwood
Ends: narrowest surfaces of a board that are approximately perpendicular with the grain direction
End Grain: wood surface that has been cut at a 90″ angle to the length of the cells, often the end of a piece of lumber; end grain absorbs finishing material to a greater degree than other wood surfaces because open-cell cavities are exposed at the surface
Face: the four surfaces of a board that are approximately parallel to the grain; or the two widest surfaces of a board also called sides; or the widest surface of a board with the least number of defects is sometimes called the best face or select face
Filler Stick: wax-based wood putty in stick form available in a variety of colors and frequently used to fill nail holes after a finish has been applied
Fillet: flat section on a molding used to separate a section of the molding
Filling: process of packing the pores of open-grained wood with filler to create a smooth surface.
Fish Eyes: small, round depressions in a finished surface; frequently caused by contamination of the finish with silicones
Flat: finished surface with no gloss
Fluting: decorative molding that is frequently used as a decoration on table legs
Fore Plane: plane about 18 inches long used to surface or dress rough lumber
Grain: orientation of the fibers in the wood, or a term used to describe the visible pattern of pores and growth rings on a board; pattern produced by the annual rings in a piece of wood; also refers to the direction of the wood fibers
Grinding: coarse wearing away of a softer material by the abrasive actions of a harder material
Grit: abrasive particles used in coated abrasives
Groove: a flat-bottomed recess cut into the face of a board with the grain
Gutter Plane: plane with a convex sole and iron that can be used to make large architectural moldings such as the cove molding
Hand Scraper: simple scraper that consists of a steel blade that is held in your hands
Hardwood: wood derived from broad-leafed trees; has no relation to the actual hardness of the wood
Heartwood: wood from the center portion of the log. It is generally darker and more decay-resistant than the younger sapwood
High spots: areas of the board that are thicker or wider than the rest of the board
Honing: giving a keen edge to a plane iron
Jack Plane: a plane 12 to 17 inches long that is used to remove saw marks from lumber and cut down high spots
Jointer: a plane 22 to 36 inches long that is designed to make an edge straight and square with the face of the board
Jointing: making an edge straight and square with the face of the board
Kerf: a cut made in a board with a saw.
Knot: the intersection between a limb and the trunk of a tree that shows up in sawed lumber as a round, oval, or spike shaped area that is darker and harder than the surrounding wood
Length: the dimension of a board running parallel with the grain
Match Planes: planes used to make tongue-and-groove joints; these planes are used in pairs: one plane cuts the tongue and the other plane cuts the groove
Microbevels: small, secondary bevels at the tip of the plane iron
Mill Marks: marks left by a planer that give the surface of a board a wavy appearance
Mitre Joint: a joint that is cut at an angle; when two boards meet at 90 degrees, the mitre angle is 45 degree
Mortise and Tenon Joint: a joint in which a projection called a tenon on one board fits into a pocket called a mortise in the other board
Ogee: a molding with an S-shaped profile
Open Grain: the appearance of wood with large, visible pores that must be filled with paste filler to achieve a smooth surface; there are two types of open-grained wood: ring-porous and diffuse-porous: ring-porous woods like oak and ash have large pores at the beginning of each annual ring and diffuse porous wood like Philippine mahogany have large pores evenly distributed throughout the wood
Particle Board: a man-made reconstituted wood product that is made from very small wood chips or particles bonded together with glue under heat and pressure
Patina: the condition of a wood and its finish that develops over time; it is characterized by a smooth, worn surface and darkening of the wood; also includes the build-up of waxes and oils that have been applied to wood over time and the scars and marks that are acquired through use
Pointer: a tool used to taper the end of a dowel.
Pores: small openings in the surface of a board
PSI: Pounds per Square Inch; a way to measure the pressure of compressed air
Quarter-Sawed: wood that has been cut so that the annual rings form an angle of 45″ to 90″ with the surface; also called edge-grain, vertical-grain, or quarter-sawn
Quirk: the small groove that defines the edges of the bead
Radius Plane: a plane used to round or chamfer the edges of a board
Raised Grain: a condition that occurs when water causes wood fibers to swell so that some stand above the surface of the board
Rake Angle: the angle formed between the top of the cutting edge and a line perpendicular to the work surface
Rank Setting: the setting of a plane iron (blade) that will make a heavy cut
Reed: a series of beads cut side by side
Ripping: the process of cutting a board approximately parallel to the grain.
Rotary-Cut: wood that is cut by rotating a log against a fixed knife to produce a continuous sheet
Rounder: a tool used to make dowels or round stock
Router Plane: a plane used to smooth the bottom of a recess, which is a cut indentation in a piece of wood
Sandpaper: a coated abrasive with a paper backing
Sapwood: The new wood near the outside of a tree; generally lighter in color and more prone to decay than heartwood which is in the center of a log
Sash planes: a special moulding plane used to make windows
Scraper: a tool used for the final smoothing of wood
Sharpening Angle: the angle that you hold the blade at while you hone it on a whetstone
Shooting Boards: boards with straight, true edges that are used to guide the plane
Shoulder: the part of the joint that is cut 90 degrees to the face or edge of the board; a joint only has a shoulder when that part of the board that fits into a joint must be thinner or narrower than the rest of the board
Sides: the two widest surfaces of a board, also called faces
Siphon-Feed Gun: a spray gun that uses atmospheric pressure to deliver liquid from the cup to the nozzle
Skew: to set something at an angle
Slipstone: small whetstone that is rounded or tapered
Smooth Plane: plane 9 or 10 inches long used to smooth the surface of a board,
Softwood: wood produced by trees that have needles rather than broad leaves
Stick: the board that the moulding is cut into
Striking: the process of cutting mouldings
Stopped: a cut or joint that ends before the edge or end of a board. For example, a stopped dado ends before the front edge of the board.
Stropping: process sometimes used when sharpening a plane blade in which a piece of leather that is impregnated with a fine abrasive is used to make the cutting edge very sharp
Tack Rag: piece of cheesecloth that has been treated so that it attracts dust
Tampico: natural filament derived from plants in the cactus family; it is resistant to chemicals and is used primarily in brushes used to apply chemical stains
Tannin: acid found in wood; it forms different-colored compounds when it reacts with certain chemicals; most chemical stains depend on a reaction with the tannin in wood
Taper: gradual angle cut on one or more faces of a board
Tear-Out: condition that occurs when the grain of a board changes direction and the plane blade starts to chip the wood
Temper: the correct heat treatment of a tool’s metal, to make it stay sharp longer
Tongue And Groove Joint: a two-part joint in which a projection on one board called a tongue fits into a groove on the other board
Tuning: the process of adjusting all of the working parts of a plane to their optimum positions and removing all imperfections in the casting left from the manufacturing process
Turning: piece of wood that has been shaped on a lathe
Twist: a distortion in a board that results in the ends of a board not being parallel. When the face of a twisted board is placed on a flat surface, one corner of the board will be lifted off the surface.
Universal Plane: any plane that can be used with cutters of different sizes
Veneer: a thin sheet of wood; face veneers are usually made from expensive wood species and applied over cheaper wood’s core; veneers are made from inexpensive woods like fir and are used for the inner plies in plywood; veneers may be produced by rotary process, slicing or sawing
Warp: any distortion in the shape of a board caused by changes in the moisture content of the wood
Water Stain: a clear, permanent aniline dye stain that uses water as its solvent; it will raise the grain of the wood
Wet Or Dry Sandpaper: sandpaper that uses waterproof glue to attach the abrasive particles to a water-resistant paper backing
Whetstones: abrasive stones used to sharpen edge tools
Whitewood: wood that has not yet been finished
Wood Putty: a doughy product used to fill nail holes and defects in wood.
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Wood Finishes and Finishing Jargon

Crafts, Glossaries No Comments
Adhesion: the property causing one material to stick to another
Barrier Coat: a coat applied which separates the substrate from contact with the topcoats
Bleeding: when a dye or color absorbs through to the top layer; this is due to a common solvency of the topcoat and the dye
Bloom: a bluish haze of a film usually caused by insufficient drying time of the oil stain before top-coating
Blushing: a white, milky cast in a film which is caused by trapping moisture into the film; blushing can be prevented and eliminated by slowing down the drying of the coating by adding a blush retarder
Blush Retarder: a reducer with slower drying properties
Body: the thickness of viscosity of the coating while in liquid form
Bond: the adhesion of or ability of two items to stick to one another
Bridge: when a finish forms a layer over a crack or void
Coat: the act of applying a coating to a surface
Coating: any material applied to a surface leaving a protective layer on that surface
Cold Checking: the cracking of a finish due to exposure to cold temperatures
Crawling: when a coating applied tends to flow away from areas leaving them uncoated; this is usually caused by grease or oil contamination of the surface to be coated
De-Laminate: the separation of layers due to lack of adhesion
Distressing: fly speck spotting (and/or other age marks like hammering) in the finished surface or on the substrate
Dye: a coloring material that dissolves in a system very transparent and not as color fast as a pigment
Dry Hard: the elapsed time at which a coating has reached its optimum hardness
Fading: the loss of color due to exposure to sunlight
Fast to Light: a color which is not significantly affected by exposure to sunlight
Finish: general term referring to the final protective coat done to add life to the piece painted that can be applied by brush or spray
Fish Eye: pock marks or craters that show up on finished surface when silicone is present
Flash point: the temperature at which a material will ignite when exposed to a source of ignition
Flat or Matte: a dull finish with little light reflection; non-glossy
Flood: the act of very heavily applying a coating to the substrate
Flow: the smoothing and leveling out of a coating
Glaze: an oil based pigment which is applied between lacquer coats to accent or give a graining effect
Gloss: the shininess or reflectability of a surface
Holiday: an uncoated area of a coated surface usually missed unintentionally
Incompatible: used in reference to coatings and/or stains that are not capable of being mixed with one another
Leveling: the act of applying a coat which will smooth out a previously rough coat
Opaque/Opacity: the degree of hiding of a pigmented coating. The opposite of transparent.
Orange Peel: a rough surface of a film similar in appearance to the skin of an orange
Pigment: a finely ground, insoluble powder which contributes color to a coating – usually very color fast
Pinholeing: the appearance of numerous small holes in a film, usually caused by bubbles due to heat drying of the coating
Primer: a coating which is first applied to a bare surface to make it smooth and help paint adhere to the surface
Reducer: to add solvent in order to thin a material to a workable thickness (viscosity)
Sanding Sealer: a lacquer formulated to give better filling and sandability than the topcoat lacquer
Substrate: the surface or material to be coated
Transparent: clear enough to see through
Translucent: allows light to pass through but not clear enough to see through
Viscosity: the thickness of a coating material in its liquid form
Volatile: the solvent portion of a coating
Washcoat: very thin coat of shellac or sealer
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