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	<title>Think Crafts Blog - Craft Ideas and Projects - CreateForLess &#187; Glossaries</title>
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	<link>http://thinkcrafts.com</link>
	<description>Think Crafts Blog - Craft, Scrapbooking and Sewing Ideas, Projects and Tips by Maria Nerius, the Expert Craft Advice Columnist at CreateForLess.</description>
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		<title>Cardmaking &amp; Scrapbooking Questions &amp; Answers part 2</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2011/12/27/cardmaking-scrapbooking-questions-answers-part-2/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2011/12/27/cardmaking-scrapbooking-questions-answers-part-2/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 27 Dec 2011 10:40:34 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Peg R</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Cardmaking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Paper Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[archival ink]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[card making]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cardmaking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[distress inks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[dry embossing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[envelope sizes]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[expert papercraft]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[fixed blade trimmer]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Guillotine trimmer]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[paper]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[paper crafting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[paper trimmer]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[ranger distress inks]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rotary trimmer]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Scrapbooking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Scrapbooking Questions]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[tape runner]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/?p=15185</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Q. I'm looking at buying my first paper trimmer, but am confused on the differences between them. Can you please explain the differences? 
A. There are 3 basic trimmers: the Rotary trimmer, Fixed Blade trimmer and Guillotine trimmer.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<fb:share-button href="http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2011/12/27/cardmaking-scrapbooking-questions-answers-part-2/" type="box_count"></fb:share-button><p>By Cardmaking &amp; Scrapbook Layout Contributor, Peg from the blog <strong><a onclick="javascript:_gaq.push(['_trackEvent','outbound-article','http://www.pegscraftingcorner.blogspot.com']);" href="http://www.pegscraftingcorner.blogspot.com/">Peg’s Crafting Corner. </a></strong></p>
<p>Q. I&#8217;m looking at buying my first <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=Scrapbooking%20%26%20Paper%20crafts%20%3E%20paper%20trimmer">paper trimmer</a></strong>, but am confused on the differences between them. Can you please explain the differences?</p>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/12/Ask-the-experts2.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-15188" title="Ask the experts2" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/12/Ask-the-experts2.jpg" alt="" width="521" height="197" /></a></p>
<p>A. There are 3 basic trimmers: the <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=Scrapbooking%20%26%20Paper%20crafts%20%20Rotary%20trimmer">Rotary trimmer</a></strong>, <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/Martha+Stewart+Tools+Simple+Paper+Trimmer/pid162962.aspx">Fixed Blade trimmer</a></strong> and <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=Scrapbooking%20%26%20Paper%20crafts%20%20Guillotine%20trimmer">Guillotine trimmer</a></strong>.</p>
<p>The <strong>rotary trimmer</strong> has a blade that turns as you move it down your paper to make the cut. With this trimmer, you can also remove the cutting blade and put in a decorative <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=Scrapbooking%20%26%20Paper%20crafts%20%20Fiskars%20Rotary%20Trimmer%20Blades">blade</a></strong> that makes a different cut such as a wavy or scalloped one. A rotary trimmer can cut through multiple sheets of paper of lighter weight paper. Many of these have swing out arms that allow you to cut a 12 x 12&#8243; sheet of paper.</p>
<p>A <strong>fixed blade trimmer</strong> has a blade which moves on a track from the top to the bottom to cut the paper. Some of them come with a wire guide so you can make sure your cut is lined up. These are good for smaller projects like making cards. They are also more portable.</p>
<p>A <strong>Guillotine trimmer</strong> has a handle that you raise and lower to cut the paper. These allow you to cut multiple sheets of paper at one time and are good to cut heavier weights of paper.</p>
<p>Q. What are the most common <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=cardmaking">card and envelope</a></strong> sizes to use?</p>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/12/Ask-the-experts2-evelopes.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-15193" title="Ask the experts2 evelopes" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/12/Ask-the-experts2-evelopes.jpg" alt="" width="386" height="160" /></a></p>
<p>&nbsp;</p>
<p>A. Cards can be any size you&#8217;d like them to be, but you need to keep in mind when making them that the larger and heavier the card the more postage it will need. The 2 most common sizes seen are <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/Paper+Accents+Card+_and_+Envelope+4.25x+5.5/plid763.aspx">4 1/4&#8243; x 5 1/2&#8243;</a></strong> which is referred to as an A2 sized card, and <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/Paper+Accents+Card+_and_+Envelope+Pack+5x7/plid760.aspx">5 1/8&#8243; x 7&#8243;</a></strong> or an A7 card size. A7 envelopes are 5 1/4&#8243; x 7 1/4&#8243; and A2 envelopes are 4 3/8&#8243; x 5 3/4&#8243;. <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=cardmaking">Premade card bases and envelopes</a></strong> are the easiest way to create cards, but can, also, be made by cutting <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=cardstock">cardstock</a></strong> into the size you need.</p>
<p>3. What are the differences in inks for stamping?</p>
<p>There are 4 ink types: <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=pigment%20inks">pigment</a></strong>, <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=chalk%20inks">chalk</a></strong>, <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=archival%20inks">archival</a></strong> and <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=dye%20inks">dye</a></strong>.</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>Pigment inks</strong>, such as <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=ranger%20distress">Ranger&#8217;s Distress Inks</a></strong>, allow you to stamp on different mediums such as paper and clay. They&#8217;re a slower drying ink making it easier to use for embossing. These inks are fade-resistant, acid free and archival safe. Pigment ink looks like what you see when you look at the stamp pad and will look the same on paper. These inks won&#8217;t dissolve in water.</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>Chalk inks</strong>, such as <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=Colorbox%20Fluid%20Chalk%20Inks">Colorbox Fluid Chalk Inks</a></strong>, give a softer look to what you are stamping and are fast drying. They can be used on many mediums and can be heat set to make more permanent.</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>Archival ink</strong> won&#8217;t smear when used to stamp an image; then colored in with a marker or water based dye ink. It is more permanent and fade resistant and works on all types of paper, as well as, glass, fabric, plastic, metal, clay and more.</p>
<p style="padding-left: 30px;"><strong>Dye ink</strong> is water based and will dissolve which makes them good for coloring in areas because they blend well. These inks dry faster and work on all types of paper. They are a more concentrated ink so the color will be bolder when dried. It is a more general purpose ink which makes it good for basic stamping.</p>
<p>Q. There are so many <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=Scrapbooking%20%26%20Paper%20Crafts%20%20adhesives">adhesives</a></strong>, which one should I use?</p>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/12/Ask-the-experts2-glues.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-15190" title="Ask the experts2 glues" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/12/Ask-the-experts2-glues.jpg" alt="" width="355" height="146" /></a></p>
<p>A. There are a lot of adhesive types on the market and which one you use will depend on your project. The two you will use most will be a dry adhesive such as a <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=Scrapbooking%20%26%20Paper%20Crafts%20%20tape%20runner">tape runner</a></strong> to adhere your papers and embellishments and a wet adhesive (an <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=Scrapbooking%20%26%20Paper%20Crafts%20%20all%20purpose%20glue">all purpose glue</a></strong> is recommended) to adhere things like ribbons and flowers. Tape runners come in refillable or can be thrown out when empty. You can also purchase repositionable ones that allow you to take your item off and move it around on your projects.</p>
<p>Q. What is wet and dry embossing?</p>
<p>A. Wet embossing is where an image is stamped with <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/Tsukineko+VersaMark+Watermark+Ink+Stamp+Pad+Large+Clear/pid34256.aspx">ink</a></strong> and <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=embossing%20powder%20">embossing powder</a></strong> is poured on the image and is melted to the paper using a <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=Scrapbooking%20%26%20Paper%20Crafts%20%20heat%20tool">heat tool</a></strong>. The heat tool is the most important thing to your creation along with the correct ink.</p>
<p>Dry embossing is done using tools such as a<strong> <a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=embossing%20stylus">stylus</a></strong> that is rubbed over the paper and texture plate. An <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=Scrapbooking%20%26%20Paper%20Crafts%20emboss%20machine">embossing machine</a></strong> and <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=embossing%20folder">embossing folders</a></strong> is another good example of dry embossing.</p>
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		<title>Cardmaking &amp; Scrapbooking Questions &amp; Answers</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2011/11/28/card-making-and-scrapbooking-questions-and-answers/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2011/11/28/card-making-and-scrapbooking-questions-and-answers/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 28 Nov 2011 10:05:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Peg R</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Cardmaking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Craft Professionals]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Paper Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Projects]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Rubber Stamping]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Scrapbooking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[card making]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[cardmaking]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[paper crafting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rubberstamping]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Techniques & Mediums]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/?p=15087</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Q. What is the difference between acrylic and cling stamps?

]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<fb:share-button href="http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2011/11/28/card-making-and-scrapbooking-questions-and-answers/" type="box_count"></fb:share-button><p>By Cardmaking &amp; Scrapbook Layout Contributor, Peg from the blog <strong><a onclick="javascript:_gaq.push(['_trackEvent','outbound-article','http://www.pegscraftingcorner.blogspot.com']);" href="http://www.pegscraftingcorner.blogspot.com/">Peg’s Crafting Corner. </a></strong></p>
<p><strong>Q. What is the difference between <a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=Acrylic%20stamps">acrylic</a> and <a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=cling%20stamps">cling stamps</a>?</strong></p>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/11/ask-the-experts-stamps.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-15088" title="ask the experts stamps" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/11/ask-the-experts-stamps.jpg" alt="" width="436" height="314" /></a></p>
<p><strong>A. <a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=Acrylic%20stamps">Acrylic stamps</a></strong>, also known as clear stamps, are made of a clear polymer that is flexible which allows them to be placed on plastic sheets for easy storage. Since they do not come with a handle like a wood mounted stamp does a reusable <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=Acrylic%20stamp%20block">acrylic block</a></strong> is needed to use this type of stamp. The image has been etched on and die cut closely so they are the easiest to use as you can see through them to know exactly where you are placing your image. <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=cling%20stamps">Cling stamps</a></strong> are rubber stamps without the wooden block. They have been trimmed around and a piece of cling vinyl has been placed on the foam mount to attach to the stamp where normally the wood block would be. This vinyl which is very sticky sticks to the acrylic block allowing it to be the handle of the stamp and can be removed after used. These stamps are the actual size of the image which allows for easier placement on your projects.</p>
<p><strong>Q. What is a <a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=scoring%20board">scoring board</a>?</strong></p>
<p> <a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/11/ask-the-experts-boards.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-15090" title="ask the experts boards" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/11/ask-the-experts-boards.jpg" alt="" width="455" height="261" /></a></p>
<p><strong>A</strong>. S<strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=scoring%20board">coring (or score) board</a></strong> is used to create a grooved line into the paper (score line) which helps in getting a crisp, clean fold. They are a handy tool for card makers to get a clean fold of a card and also can be used for creating the folds in handmade envelopes and boxes, as well as, other projects.</p>
<p><strong>Q. What is fussy cutting in paper crafting?</strong></p>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/11/ask-the-experts-fussy-cut.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-15091" title="ask the experts fussy cut" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/11/ask-the-experts-fussy-cut.jpg" alt="" width="451" height="270" /></a></p>
<p><strong>A.</strong> A lot of people know this term from quilting, but it has also spread into paper crafting. There are two ways of doing a fussy cut. One is when you use<strong> <a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=Scrapbooking%20%26%20Paper%20Crafts%20%20scissor">scissors</a></strong> or a <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=Craft%20knife">craft knife</a></strong> to cut closely around the edge of a particular image; a stamped image for instance. The second way, which may not be thought of as often, is when you use a die and <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=die%20cut%20machine">die cut machine</a></strong> to make a cut around an image in a piece of patterned paper.</p>
<p><strong>Q.</strong> I want to use the cards I received on my layout, but how do I do that?</p>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/11/ask-the-experts-cards.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-15092" title="ask the experts cards" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/11/ask-the-experts-cards.jpg" alt="" width="551" height="193" /></a></p>
<p><strong>A.</strong> You can add a <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=%20re-sealable%20bag">re-sealable bag</a></strong> to your layout and then add embellishments to the outside that match the theme of your layout or you can create a pocket out of cardstock or scrapbook paper by cutting it to a size to fit the widths and heights of the cards with an additional 1/2” added to these measurements on the sides and bottom to score and fold towards the layout which allows it to be attached to the scrapbook page. Both ways allow your cards to stay intact and removable to read again and again.</p>
<p><strong>Q.</strong> Any ideas where I can find some inspiration?</p>
<p> <strong>A.</strong> A great place to start is the <strong><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/">Think Crafts blog</a></strong>, but you may also be interested in the great books that <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/">CreateForLess</a></strong> carries.</p>
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		<title>Get Creative with the Xyron Creative Station 510 Laminator</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2011/05/15/get-creative-with-the-xyron-creative-station-510-laminator/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2011/05/15/get-creative-with-the-xyron-creative-station-510-laminator/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 15 May 2011 12:34:06 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Guest Blogger</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[creating magnets]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[creative station]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[creative station 510]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[DIY stickers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[how to use xyron]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[laminating]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[laminators]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[making labels]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[making stickers]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[xyron]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[xyron 510]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/?p=11464</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Xyron products are always a big hit with crafters and it's easy to see why. The company's laminators and sticker makers look great, help users create beautiful handmade items and, best of all, they're fun to use. Even kids can have fun with them because the devices don't need electricity to work, which makes them really safe to use. The laminators and sticker makers also come in a lot of fun colors such as translucent purple, neon green, and leopard-print.

]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<fb:share-button href="http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2011/05/15/get-creative-with-the-xyron-creative-station-510-laminator/" type="box_count"></fb:share-button><p>By Guest Blogger Brie Beazley, from the Blog <strong><a href="http://www.mybindingblog.com/">&#8220;My Binding Blog&#8221;. </a></strong></p>
<p><strong> <a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/05/xyron.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-11466" title="xyron" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/05/xyron.jpg" alt="" width="344" height="296" /></a></strong></p>
<p>Xyron products are always a big hit with crafters and it&#8217;s easy to see why. The company&#8217;s laminators and sticker makers look great, help users create beautiful handmade items and, best of all, they&#8217;re fun to use. Even kids can have fun with them because the devices don&#8217;t need electricity to work, which makes them really safe to use. The laminators and sticker makers also come in a lot of fun colors such as translucent purple, neon green, and leopard-print.</p>
<p>One of Xyron&#8217;s most popular devices is the <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=xyron%20510">Creative Station 510</a></strong>, which was actually featured on The Martha Stewart Show. The 510 is a laminator made for processing items that are 4.5&#8243; wide or less, but you can do a lot of different things with it. Some of the things you can do include:</p>
<ul>
<li><strong>Making stickers and labels.</strong> There are adhesive cartridges available for the 510 so you can make your very own stickers and labels. You can use the stickers as name tags, to decorate scrapbooks, embellish greeting cards, trade with your friends, and so on.</li>
<li><strong>Creating magnets.</strong> Making your own magnets is a lot of fun. You can take just about any drawing, picture, or text and create a magnet that can go right up on the fridge. (They also make great gifts!) Just pop a magnetic cartridge into the 510 and you&#8217;re good to go.</li>
<li><strong>Laminating.</strong> And, of course, you can use the 510 to laminate smaller items. Make your own laminated bookmarks and paper dolls, and protect your favorite pictures. You could also make flash cards so you or your child can learn new things.</li>
</ul>
<p>You can get really creative with the Xyron Creative Station 510 and it&#8217;s a must-have tool for casual and dedicated crafters alike. It&#8217;s also a great device for kids since it&#8217;s safe to use. There are so many things you can create with the 510, the list is endless.</p>
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		<title>My Favorite Things &#8211; Sewing Books</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2011/05/14/my-favorite-things-sewing-books/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2011/05/14/my-favorite-things-sewing-books/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sat, 14 May 2011 17:15:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Mable Craftsalot</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Projects]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sewing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Bend the rules sewing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Green Crafting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[one yard wonders]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sewing books]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[sewing ideas]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sewing projects]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/?p=11053</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[I have an entire shelf in my book case dedicated to just books about sewing. I’ve looked at them thoroughly from cover to cover and have made at least one project from each book. The two books that I use the most are “One Yard Wonders” and “Bend-the-rules Sewing”. ]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<fb:share-button href="http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2011/05/14/my-favorite-things-sewing-books/" type="box_count"></fb:share-button><p>By Crafts-a lot Contributor, Mable who is an avid reader of craft blogs &amp; magazines and has aspirations to improve her crafting skills. Join Mable on <strong><a href="http://www.facebook.com/CreateForLess">Facebook</a></strong> to socialize and share with other crafters!</p>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/04/covers.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-11064" title="covers" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/04/covers.jpg" alt="" width="454" height="269" /></a></p>
<p>I have an entire shelf in my book case dedicated to just <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=Books%20%3E%20Sewing%20">books about sewing</a></strong>. I&#8217;ve looked at them thoroughly from cover to cover and have made at least one project from each book. The two books that I use the most are <strong><a href="http://www.facebook.com/oneyardwonders">&#8220;One Yard Wonders&#8221;</a> </strong>and <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/Potter+Publishers+Books+Bend+The+Rules+Sewing+Book/pid134952.aspx">&#8220;Bend-the-Rules Sewing&#8221;.</a></strong></p>
<div id="attachment_11056" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 364px"><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/04/bend-the-rules-sewing-21.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-11056" title="bend the rules sewing 2" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/04/bend-the-rules-sewing-21.jpg" alt="" width="354" height="543" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Photo from &quot;Bend-the-Rules Sewing&quot;</p></div>
<p><strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/Potter+Publishers+Books+Bend+The+Rules+Sewing+Book/pid134952.aspx">&#8220;Bend-the-Rules Sewing&#8221;</a></strong> is written by the <strong><a href="http://angrychicken.typepad.com/">Angry Chicken</a></strong> blogger Amy Karol. This book has thirty projects, but what I loved most was all the advice and ideas. She writes about choosing and using different fabrics, and an entire section on techniques. She gives step by step instructions and illustrations of different hand stitches, embroidery techniques, and a lot of sewing vocabulary and descriptions of how and when to use different sewing notions. This book is perfect for a beginner to intermediate sewer.</p>
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<div class="mceTemp mceIEcenter">
<div id="attachment_11061" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 342px"><span style="color: #333333;"><img class="size-full wp-image-11061" title="one yard wonders" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/04/one-yard-wonders1.jpg" alt="" width="332" height="492" /></span><p class="wp-caption-text">Photo from &quot;One Yard Wonders&quot;</p></div>
</div>
</div>
<p>The full title of this book is<strong><a href="http://www.facebook.com/oneyardwonders"> &#8220;One-Yard Wonders: 101 Sewing Fabric Projects; Look How Much You Can Make with Just One Yard of Fabric!&#8221; </a></strong>Really, what more can I say then 101 projects in one book!? This book has projects for everything and everyone. The sections from this book are: Dwell Redux, Household Affairs, On the Go, From Head to Toe, Carry it All, Outfit your Small Wonder, Accessorize your Little One, Playtime and Your Furry Friends.</p>
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		<title>Egg Shell Candles</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2011/04/17/egg-shell-candles/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2011/04/17/egg-shell-candles/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 17 Apr 2011 13:17:17 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Gillian</dc:creator>
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		<description><![CDATA[These little candles are a practically free way of making a sweet, simple Easter decoration for your table. If you don't have block wax on hand, melt down old candle stubs to fill the eggs for a recycled version of this craft!

]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<fb:share-button href="http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2011/04/17/egg-shell-candles/" type="box_count"></fb:share-button><p>By Kid&#8217;s Craft Contributor, Gillian from the blog <a title="Dried Figs and Wooden Spools" onclick="_gaq.push(['_trackEvent','outbound-article','driedfigsandwoodenspools.blogspot.com']);" href="http://driedfigsandwoodenspools.blogspot.com/" target="_self"><strong>“Dried Figs and Wooden Spools”.</strong></a></p>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/04/egg-candles.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-10640" title="egg candles" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/04/egg-candles.jpg" alt="" width="451" height="308" /></a></p>
<p>These little candles are a practically free way of making a sweet, simple Easter decoration for your table. If you don&#8217;t have <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=candle%20wax">block wax</a></strong> on hand, melt down old candle stubs to fill the eggs for a recycled version of this craft!</p>
<p>Here&#8217;s what you&#8217;ll need</p>
<ul>
<li>Eggs</li>
<li><strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=candle%20wicks">Candle wicking</a></strong></li>
<li><strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/Forster+Mini+Dowels+250pc/pid75556.aspx">Dowels</a></strong> or pencils</li>
<li>Egg carton</li>
<li><strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=candle%20wax">Wax</a></strong></li>
<li>Double boiler</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/04/egg-candles3.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-10641" title="egg candles3" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/04/egg-candles3.jpg" alt="" width="444" height="309" /></a></p>
<p>1. Crack the eggs at the top of the shell, removing about the top third of the shell. Rinse each shell and allow it to dry.</p>
<p>2. Set the wax to melt in the double boiler. Add <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=candle%20scent">scent</a></strong> or <strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/Yaley+Candle+Dye+Block/plid136.aspx">color</a></strong> if desired.</p>
<p>3. Place the eggs in the egg carton an fill 1/2 way with wax.</p>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/04/egg-candles4.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-10644" title="egg candles4" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/04/egg-candles4.jpg" alt="" width="397" height="243" /></a></p>
<p>4 Cut the wick into 5 5 inch lengths. Tie one end around the pencil or dowel and then tie a knot about 1 1/2 inch down, trim off excess.</p>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/04/egg-candles2.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-10645" title="egg candles2" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/04/egg-candles2.jpg" alt="" width="404" height="269" /></a></p>
<p>5. Lower the knot end of the wick into the wax and balance the pencil over the shell so that the wick is centered on the egg.</p>
<p>6. Allow the wax to cool and then top off with about 1/4 inch of wax to fill in the void around the candle (this happens during the cooling process).</p>
<p>7. Trim the wick and break off any shell that will come near the flame. Set in egg cups and light!</p>
<p>Easter is already next week!</p>
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		<title>50 Free and Adorable Amigurumi Patterns</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2011/03/13/50-free-and-adorable-amigurumi-patterns/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2011/03/13/50-free-and-adorable-amigurumi-patterns/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 13 Mar 2011 13:27:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Guest Blogger</dc:creator>
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		<description><![CDATA[By Web Design Schools Guide Amigurumi is the Japanese art of crafting stuffed crochet or knit toys that are usually made into animals, dolls and inanimate objects. These stuffed dolls are known for having oversized spherical heads on an undersized body and expressional faces. Whether you’re a beginner or an expert at amigurumi, you always [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<fb:share-button href="http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2011/03/13/50-free-and-adorable-amigurumi-patterns/" type="box_count"></fb:share-button><p>By <strong><a href="http://www.webdesignschoolsguide.com/library/50-free-and-adorable-amigurumi-patterns.html">Web Design Schools Guide</a></strong></p>
<p>Amigurumi is the Japanese art of crafting stuffed crochet or knit toys that are usually made into animals, dolls and inanimate objects. These stuffed dolls are known for having oversized spherical heads on an undersized body and expressional faces. Whether you’re a beginner or an expert at amigurumi, you always need a pattern to reference and guide you along the way. Thankfully, the Web has tons of free patterns and instructions on how to make these darling toys for less.</p>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/03/Amigurumi.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-9897" title="Amigurumi" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/03/Amigurumi.jpg" alt="" width="250" height="190" /></a></p>
<p>Here are 50 free and adorable amigurumi patterns to get you going:</p>
<p><strong>Animals</strong></p>
<p>Animals are the most common type of amigurumi made, and these are the cutest of the creatures.</p>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://www.coatsandclark.com/NR/rdonlyres/0BE67E92-96F2-45E2-A999-CB2354D0B0F4/157277/LW2267.pdf"><strong>Monkey</strong></a>: This classic sock monkey is designed to be an ornament, but it would make a great handheld toy too.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.coatsandclark.com/NR/rdonlyres/F5B35C73-86E9-468B-9275-3BB2F7073F3E/101070/WT1742.pdf"><strong>Owl</strong></a>: This adorable wide-eyed owl is easy to crochet and would make a great gift for anyone.</li>
<li><a href="http://amigurumipatterns.blogspot.com/2007/10/little-octopus-ornament-to-sweeten-up.html"><strong>Jellyfish</strong></a>: Don’t worry, this soft, purple jellyfish will only sting you with cuteness.</li>
<li><a href="http://enamieyes.blogspot.com/2008/09/my-big-fuzzy-spider-pattern_22.html"><strong>Spider</strong></a>: This harmless looking spider is perfect for Halloween decorating or everyday play.</li>
<li><a href="http://lisalovesyarn.blogspot.com/2010/12/dachshund-amigurumi-crochet-pattern.html"><strong>Dachshund</strong></a>: Dachshunds make the perfect pups for amigurumi dolls, and this one is by far the cutest.</li>
<li><a href="http://tamiesnow.typepad.com/roxycraft/2009/04/free-pattern-amigurumi-easter-bunny-bunny-boo.html"><strong>Bunny</strong></a>: You’ll be hoppy, er, happy to crochet this floppy-eared bunny.</li>
<li><a href="http://baghisblog.blogspot.com/2010/08/free-amigurumi-pattern-moko-cat.html"><strong>Cat</strong></a>: This kitty amigurumi will make the purrfect toy for a kid or cat lover.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.np-trade.de/anleit/pdf/e-little%20pig.pdf"><strong>Pig</strong></a>: This precious pink pig is just oinking to be made by you.</li>
<li><a href="http://bittersweetblog.wordpress.com/2008/08/01/damed_beaver/"><strong>Beaver</strong></a>: From the buck teeth to the paddle tail, this little beaver is a spitting image of the real thing.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.crochetville.org/forum/showthread.php?t=30845"><strong>Hippo</strong></a>: Challenge yourself by crocheting this happy hippo who is cuter than words.</li>
</ol>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/03/Amigurumi2.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-9898" title="Amigurumi2" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2011/03/Amigurumi2.jpg" alt="" width="263" height="366" /></a></p>
<p><strong>Video Game Characters</strong></p>
<p>Even your favorite video game characters have amigurumi patterns like these.</p>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://nerdigurumi.com/2010/10/amigurumi-kirby-with-pattern.html"><strong>Kirby</strong></a>: You’ll enjoy crocheting this adorable pink puffball from the Nintendo game Kirby.</li>
<li><a href="http://wolfdreamer-oth.blogspot.com/2009/03/pikachu-plushie-pattern.html"><strong>Pikachu</strong></a>: From the yellow plush body to the lightning bolt tail, this Pikachu doll is a spitting image of the game character.</li>
<li><a href="http://wolfdreamer-oth.blogspot.com/2009/04/bombomb.html"><strong>Bomb-omb</strong></a>: This crocheted Bomb-omb from Mario can be a toy or paperweight, but either way it won’t explode.</li>
<li><a href="http://tanoshimou.wordpress.com/2010/05/27/link-legend-of-zelda-amigurumi-free-pattern/"><strong>Link</strong></a>: If you’re a <em>Legend of Zelda</em> fan, you’ll love making this adorable Link doll.</li>
<li><a href="http://arpelia.blogspot.com/2008/03/super-mario-invincibility-star-crochet.html"><strong>Invisibility Star</strong></a>: This Super Mario invisibility star is super cool and oh-so-cute with or without a smile.</li>
</ol>
<p><strong>Holiday/Celebration</strong></p>
<p>Use these amigurumi patterns to decorate for the holidays and for gift giving.</p>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://translate.google.com/translate?hl=en&amp;langpair=ja%7Cen&amp;u=http://www11.ocn.ne.jp/~yagurun/amizu/ri-su.htm&amp;tbb=1&amp;rurl=translate.google.com"><strong>Christmas Wreath</strong></a>: Try your hand at crocheting this little Christmas wreath with colorful leaves and a mini snowman.</li>
<li><a href="http://blog.fuzzymitten.com/2009/04/spring-chick.html"><strong>Spring Chicks</strong></a>: These adorable fuzzy chicks would make the perfect Easter decoration or basket surprise.</li>
<li><a href="http://mygurumi.blogspot.com/2009/02/pop-heart-pattern.html"><strong>Valentine’s Heart</strong></a>: Give your Valentine your heart, your amigurumi pop heart, that is.</li>
<li><a href="http://freeamigurumipatterns.blogspot.com/2009/10/amigurumi-turkey.html"><strong>Turkey</strong></a>: Everyone will gobble up this amigurumi turkey because it’s just that adorable.</li>
<li><a href="http://freeamigurumipatterns.blogspot.com/2010/05/bridal-peas-in-pod.html"><strong>Peas in a Pod</strong></a>: Give your newlywed friends something original like these peas in a pod.</li>
</ol>
<p><strong>Food</strong></p>
<p>These adorable amigurumi foods look good enough to eat, but I don’t recommend trying.</p>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://www.planetjune.com/blog/free-crochet-patterns/amigurumi-apples/"><strong>Apples</strong></a>: Take a bite at this apple pattern that is cuter than words.</li>
<li><a href="http://amigurumiparadise.blogspot.com/2008/11/amigurumi-banana-free-pattern.html"><strong>Banana</strong></a>: Peel back the layers of this amigurumi banana and you’ll find this sweet face.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.craftster.org/forum/index.php?topic=170065.0"><strong>Cherry Pie Slice</strong></a>: Don’t let this crocheted slice of cherry pie fool you – it’s just for looks.</li>
<li><a href="http://amigurumipatterns.blogspot.com/2009/03/little-cafe-con-lech-cup-from-amigurumi.html"><strong>Coffee Cup</strong></a>: Don’t you wish your coffee mug was this cute?</li>
<li><a href="http://mammaspyssel.blogspot.com/search/label/Stekt%20%C3%A4gg"><strong>Fried Eggs</strong></a>: Fried eggs never looked cuter and more real! Note: Scroll down on the pattern for the English translation.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.crochetspot.com/free-crochet-pattern-amigurumi-s%E2%80%99more/"><strong>S’more</strong></a>: Just like the campfire version, except for the smiling marshmallow that’s too sweet to eat.</li>
<li><a href="http://amigurumigirl.blogspot.com/2007/08/pears-pears-everywhere.html"><strong>Pear</strong></a>: Give this adorable amigurumi pear a try, and don’t forget to add the stem and rosy cheeks as well.</li>
<li><a href="http://bittersweetblog.wordpress.com/2007/05/22/hot-dog/"><strong>Hot Dog</strong></a>: How doggone cute is this hot dog and bun amigurumi pattern? Crochet on some ketchup or relish for added color and taste.</li>
<li><a href="http://bittersweetblog.wordpress.com/2006/10/09/heard-it-through-the-grape-vine/"><strong>Grapes</strong></a>: Try your hand at crocheting these beautiful purple grapes that looks divine.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.thriftyfun.com/tf34890489.tip.html"><strong>Oreo Cookies</strong></a>: This may be a fat-free version of the real deal, but they are just as much fun to crochet than eat.</li>
</ol>
<p><strong>Nature</strong></p>
<p>These amigurumi patterns add an adorable twist to nature’s finest.</p>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://www.planetjune.com/blog/free-crochet-patterns/amigurumi-acorn/"><strong>Acorns</strong></a>: These adorable acorns are easy to crochet and make the perfect decoration for fall.</li>
<li><a href="http://mygurumi.blogspot.com/2008/07/flower-pot-downloadable.html"><strong>Flower Pot</strong></a>: These flowers make a great centerpiece, and, best of all, they won’t ever die!</li>
<li><a href="http://crochetme.com/media/p/88806.aspx"><strong>Inchworm</strong></a>: Inch your way through this adorable inchworm amigurumi pattern.</li>
<li><a href="http://gnathalie2.wordpress.com/2008/05/23/maddies-shroom-house/"><strong>Mushroom</strong></a>: You can’t go wrong making this colorful mushroom house.</li>
<li><a href="http://amigurumipatterns.blogspot.com/2007/11/thank-you-little-cactus.html"><strong>Cactus</strong></a>: There are no spikes on this adorable cactus plant – just a smile and cute bow.</li>
</ol>
<p><strong>Random</strong></p>
<p>These are the amigurumi patterns that don’t quite fit into any one category.</p>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://www.crochetville.org/forum/showthread.php?t=113917"><strong>Alien</strong></a>: This googly-eyed alien is too cute not to make.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.crochetspot.com/crochet-pattern-amigurumi-light-bulb/"><strong>Light Bulb</strong></a>: This light bulb amigurumi pattern is a bright idea and oh-so-cute.</li>
<li><a href="http://monstercrochet.blogspot.com/2006/09/free-pattern-severed-finger.html"><strong>Finger</strong></a>: These severed fingers are perfect for Halloween and anytime you want to scare your friends to death.</li>
<li><a href="http://imaginarywardrobe.blogspot.com/2008/09/crocheted-eyeballs.html"><strong>Eyeball</strong></a>: Not only are these eyeballs easy to make, but they are fun to toss around too.</li>
<li><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20080305192553/http://naidascrochet.tripod.com/patterns/poo.html"><strong>Poo</strong></a>: Yep, you read it right. It may be strange, but this is the cutest pile of poo.</li>
</ol>
<p><strong>Easy</strong></p>
<p>If you’re new to amigurumi, these easy patterns will get you started and improve your skills in no time.</p>
<ol>
<li><a href="http://yarn-pixie.blogspot.com/2008/12/little-miss-peanut-free-crochet-pattern.html"><strong>Little Miss Peanut</strong></a>: This adorable peanut amigurumi is easy to crochet and can be a plushy toy or a scented sachet.</li>
<li><a href="http://6ichthusfish.typepad.com/6ichthusfish/2009/11/free-crochet-pattern-for-christmas-tree-baubles.html"><strong>Baubels</strong></a>: These Christmas baubles can be customized for any holiday and look good in any color.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.craftbits.com/project/mr-sour-pickle-man"><strong>Mr. Sour Pickle Man</strong></a>: This sour pickle man is adorable and super easy to crochet since it’s all one shape and color.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.ripitgood.net/2010/06/23/mouserat-amigurumi/"><strong>Mouse</strong></a>: Eek! This not-so-scary mouse is easy to make and plenty adorable.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.suncatchereyes.net/Ghost%20Pattern.html"><strong>Ghost</strong></a>: This ghoulish ghost can be simplified even further and still look just as adorable.</li>
<li><a href="http://www.suncatchereyes.net/Ghost%20Pattern.html"><strong>Ball</strong></a>: It doesn’t get much easier than crocheting a perfect sphere in one continuous color like this pattern.</li>
<li><a href="http://freeamigurumipatterns.blogspot.com/search/label/cherry"><strong>Cherry</strong></a>: Check out this simple cherry pattern that even comes with a video tutorial to guide you!</li>
<li><a href="http://freeamigurumipatterns.blogspot.com/search/label/chocolates"><strong>Chocolates</strong></a>: These adorable chocolates look just as sweet as the real stuff and are easy to crochet.</li>
<li><a href="http://web.archive.org/web/20080610151449/www.yarncat.com/crotomato.html"><strong>Tomato</strong></a>: This tomato amigurumi is round, red and easy to make.</li>
<li><a href="http://imaginarywardrobe.blogspot.com/2008/08/bertie-bott-every-flavor-beans.html"><strong>Beans</strong></a>: These beans come in every flavor and color, but best of all, they’re super easy to crochet!</li>
</ol>
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		<title>Embellishing with Anything Book Review</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2010/10/20/embellishing-with-anything-book-review/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2010/10/20/embellishing-with-anything-book-review/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Wed, 20 Oct 2010 12:23:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Anitra</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Projects]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Techniques and Mediums]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[book review]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft books]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[crafting books]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Green Crafting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[national book month]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[national book month sale]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Techniques & Mediums]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[October is National Book Month and we’re celebrating by slashing prices on selected project idea books. Choose from a wide variety of paper craft, quilting, home décor and craft books at our National Book Month Sale. By Recycled Crafts Contributor, Anitra from the blog “Coffee Pot People”. All right, there&#8217;s no point in beating around the bush [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<fb:share-button href="http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2010/10/20/embellishing-with-anything-book-review/" type="box_count"></fb:share-button><p style="text-align: left;"><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">October is National Book Month and we’re celebrating by slashing prices on selected project idea books. Choose from a wide variety of </span></strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/Book+Sale/Paper+Craft+Books/a!2,aid!18882-inf-/search.aspx?SH=RD0xNX5HPTU2MTIyXjF_ST1QcmljZX5LPTR_TD0xfk09Mjl_Tj0yfg&amp;SI=f26d3e09-fa0d-47d1-9237-fe3182792861"><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">paper craft</span></strong></a><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">, </span></strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/Book+Sale/Quilt+Books/a!2,aid!18723-inf-/search.aspx?SH=RD0xNX5HPTU2MTIyXjF_ST1QcmljZX5LPTR_TD0xfk09Mjl_Tj00fg&amp;SI=f26d3e09-fa0d-47d1-9237-fe3182792861"><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">quilting</span></strong></a><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">, </span></strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/Book+Sale/Home+Decor+Books/a!2,aid!18731-inf-/search.aspx?SH=RD0xNX5HPTU2MTIyXjF_ST1QcmljZX5LPTR_TD0xfk09Mjl_Tj02fg&amp;SI=f26d3e09-fa0d-47d1-9237-fe3182792861"><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">home décor</span></strong></a><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;"> and </span></strong><a href="http://www.createforless.com/Book+Sale/Craft+Books/a!2,aid!18749-inf-/search.aspx?SH=RD0xNX5HPTU2MTIyXjF_ST1QcmljZX5LPTR_TD0xfk09Mjl_Tj04fg&amp;SI=f26d3e09-fa0d-47d1-9237-fe3182792861"><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">craft books</span></strong></a><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;"> at our National Book Month Sale.</span></strong></p>
<p>By Recycled Crafts Contributor, Anitra from the blog <strong><a title="Coffee Pot People" onclick="javascript:_gaq.push(['_trackEvent','outbound-article','coffee-pot-people.blogspot.com']);" href="http://coffee-pot-people.blogspot.com/" target="_self">“Coffee Pot People”.</a></strong></p>
<p><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;"><a href="http://www.createforless.com/C_and_T+Publishing+Embellishing+With+Anything+Book/pid150985.aspx" target="_self"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-7309" title="01-Cover (1)" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/01-Cover-1.jpg" alt="" width="328" height="448" /></a></span></strong></p>
<p>All right, there&#8217;s no point in beating around the bush here: I LOVE this book.</p>
<p>I ordered it because the subtitle mentioned ATCs (Artist Trading Cards), an art form I have just begun to explore, and because the main title said <a href="http://www.createforless.com/C_and_T+Publishing+Embellishing+With+Anything+Book/pid150985.aspx" target="_self"><strong>Embellishing with Anything</strong></a>. I am all Over that! And it didn&#8217;t hurt anything at all that the cover art was beautiful and interesting. (The author is Gladys Love, and the book is published by <a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=%20C%26T%20Publishing" target="_self"><strong>C&amp;T Publishing</strong></a>.)</p>
<p>When the book arrived, I fairly flew through the pages, exclaiming at the pictures and promising myself, &#8220;I&#8217;m going to try that!&#8221;</p>
<p>Here&#8217;s a look at the blurb on the back:</p>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/02-Blurb.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-7310" title="02-Blurb" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/02-Blurb.jpg" alt="" width="425" height="259" /></a> </p>
<p>A look at the table of contents gives you the next hint at what lies between the covers:</p>
<ul>
<li>7 pages explaining 9 techniques</li>
<li>7 pages of &#8220;Ephemera from Everywhere&#8221;, including sushi wrap, bark, clothing labels, and even a dragonfly skeleton</li>
<li>6pages on fabric beads</li>
<li>54 pages of instructions on creating 17 projects</li>
<li>5 gallery pages showing other artists&#8217; works</li>
</ul>
<p>Here are pictures of a few things in the book:</p>
<div class="mceTemp mceIEcenter">
<div id="attachment_7312" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 435px"><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/03-Felted-beads1.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-7312" title="03-Felted-beads" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/03-Felted-beads1.jpg" alt="" width="425" height="245" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Felted Beads</p></div>
</div>
<p> </p>
<dl></dl>
<p style="text-align: center;">  <a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/04-Buttonhole-stitch-1.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-7313  aligncenter" title="04-Buttonhole-stitch (1)" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/04-Buttonhole-stitch-1.jpg" alt="" width="319" height="265" /></a></p>
<p style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/Computer-printed-ATCs.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-7314  aligncenter" title="Computer-printed-ATCs" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/Computer-printed-ATCs.jpg" alt="" width="376" height="370" /></a></p>
<div class="mceTemp mceIEcenter">
<div id="attachment_7321" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 301px"><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/Gingko-wall-hanging1.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-7321" title="Gingko-wall-hanging" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/Gingko-wall-hanging1.jpg" alt="" width="291" height="402" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Gingko Wall Hanging</p></div>
</div>
<p style="text-align: center;">
<div id="attachment_7316" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 300px"><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/Ladybug-ATC.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-7316" title="Ladybug-ATC" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/Ladybug-ATC.jpg" alt="" width="290" height="412" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Ladybug ATC</p></div>
<p style="text-align: left;"> This is one of those books I know I will go back to again and again and again, and I know I will find something I&#8217;d missed previously or had forgotten about, something new to try, something that will inspire me all over again.</p>
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		<title>Bottle Art Book Review</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2010/10/17/bottle-art-book-review/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2010/10/17/bottle-art-book-review/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Sun, 17 Oct 2010 15:46:20 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Anitra</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Green Crafting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[book sale]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bootle art book]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[bottle art book review]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[CreateForLess]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[jewelry]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jewelry Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jewelry Making]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[national book month]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[recycled crafts]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[There's an expression I use from time to time, "A good idea poorly executed." I'm going to be honest here, and say that as I turned the pages of this book, I found it running through my head fairly often. Tastes differ, of course, but a lot of the projects shown just looked, well, not too great to me.

Having said that, I'll also say I like this book. A lot.
]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<fb:share-button href="http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2010/10/17/bottle-art-book-review/" type="box_count"></fb:share-button><p><strong><span style="font-size: x-small;">October is National Book Month and we’re celebrating by slashing prices on selected project idea books. Choose from a wide variety of <a href="http://www.createforless.com/Book+Sale/Paper+Craft+Books/a!2,aid!18882-inf-/search.aspx?SH=RD0xNX5HPTU2MTIyXjF_ST1QcmljZX5LPTR_TD0xfk09Mjl_Tj0yfg&amp;SI=f26d3e09-fa0d-47d1-9237-fe3182792861">paper craft</a>, <a href="http://www.createforless.com/Book+Sale/Quilt+Books/a!2,aid!18723-inf-/search.aspx?SH=RD0xNX5HPTU2MTIyXjF_ST1QcmljZX5LPTR_TD0xfk09Mjl_Tj00fg&amp;SI=f26d3e09-fa0d-47d1-9237-fe3182792861">quilting</a>, <a href="http://www.createforless.com/Book+Sale/Home+Decor+Books/a!2,aid!18731-inf-/search.aspx?SH=RD0xNX5HPTU2MTIyXjF_ST1QcmljZX5LPTR_TD0xfk09Mjl_Tj02fg&amp;SI=f26d3e09-fa0d-47d1-9237-fe3182792861">home décor</a> and <a href="http://www.createforless.com/Book+Sale/Craft+Books/a!2,aid!18749-inf-/search.aspx?SH=RD0xNX5HPTU2MTIyXjF_ST1QcmljZX5LPTR_TD0xfk09Mjl_Tj04fg&amp;SI=f26d3e09-fa0d-47d1-9237-fe3182792861">craft books</a> at our <a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=Book%20Sale" target="_self">National Book Month Sale</a>!</span></strong></p>
<p>By Recycled Crafts Contributor, Anitra from the blog <strong><a title="Coffee Pot People" onclick="javascript:_gaq.push(['_trackEvent','outbound-article','coffee-pot-people.blogspot.com']);" href="http://coffee-pot-people.blogspot.com/" target="_self">“Coffee Pot People”.</a></strong></p>
<div id="attachment_7290" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 323px"><a href="http://www.createforless.com/Design+Originals+Bottle+Art+Book/pid176017.aspx"><img class="size-full wp-image-7290" title="01-Cover" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/01-Cover.jpg" alt="" width="313" height="415" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Design Originals Bottle Art Book</p></div>
<p><a href="http://www.createforless.com/Design+Originals+Bottle+Art+Book/pid176017.aspx" target="_self"><strong>Design Originals Bottle Art Book</strong></a> &#8211; There&#8217;s an expression I use from time to time, &#8220;A good idea poorly executed.&#8221; I&#8217;m going to be honest here, and say that as I turned the pages of this book, I found it running through my head fairly often. Tastes differ, of course, but a lot of the projects shown just looked, well, <em>not too great </em>to me.</p>
<p>Having said that, I&#8217;ll also say I like this book. A lot.</p>
<p>Why? First, because some the projects really are pretty. And second, because it takes one simple medium&#8211;bottles&#8211;and turns it into&#8230;uh&#8230;wait a minute&#8230;counting here&#8230;at least eighteen different types of art. You can use the instructions in this book to make:</p>
<div id="attachment_7291" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 268px"><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/02-Wind-chiimes.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-7291" title="02-Wind-chiimes" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/02-Wind-chiimes.jpg" alt="" width="258" height="430" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Wind Chimes</p></div>
<div id="attachment_7292" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 386px"><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/03-Earrings.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-7292" title="03-Earrings" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/03-Earrings.jpg" alt="" width="376" height="258" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Earrings</p></div>
<div id="attachment_7293" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 393px"><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/04-A-variety-of-jewelry.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-7293" title="04-A-variety-of-jewelry" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/04-A-variety-of-jewelry.jpg" alt="" width="383" height="248" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">A Variety of Jewelry Even black boards</p></div>
<p>There are also instructions for making photo holders, light catchers, terrariums, candle holders, goblets and tumblers, vases, bells, and decorated bottles.</p>
<p>Even better, when the author instructs you to use a technique, she doesn&#8217;t assume you know how. She has instructions for soldering a frame around a piece of glass, for cutting bottles into slices, for firing in a kiln (and for the first time, I want one!), working with polymer clay, and more.</p>
<p><em><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/06-Some-how-tos.jpg"></a></em>In short, I think this book is well worth the purchase price, and that just about anyone is going to find it a very useful addition to his/her crafting library. Hope you will, too!</p>
<div id="attachment_7296" class="wp-caption aligncenter" style="width: 242px"><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/06-Some-how-tos1.jpg"><img class="size-full wp-image-7296" title="06-Some-how-to's" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/06-Some-how-tos1.jpg" alt="" width="232" height="670" /></a><p class="wp-caption-text">Showing some how-to instructions</p></div>
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		<title>Use Your Words</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2010/10/11/use-your-words/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2010/10/11/use-your-words/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 11 Oct 2010 13:54:12 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Anitra</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Green Crafting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Paper Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Projects]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Rubber Stamping]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Techniques and Mediums]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[art]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[green crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[make stamps]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[make your own stamps]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[paper crafting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[rubber stamps]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Techniques & Mediums]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[I’m a Janie-come-lately to stamping, and quickly learning to love it after several recent sessions making tags, decorated envelopes, and ATCs (Artist Trading Cards). I’ve taken to haunting the aisles and websites where rubber stamps may be found, and am intrigued by the possibilities, especially of stamped words.

One thing I’ve noticed, though, is that the words I might want often aren’t available, and if they are they’re sometimes the wrong size or font.

]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<fb:share-button href="http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2010/10/11/use-your-words/" type="box_count"></fb:share-button><p>By Recycled Crafts Contributor, Anitra from the blog <strong><a title="Coffee Pot People" onclick="javascript:_gaq.push(['_trackEvent','outbound-article','coffee-pot-people.blogspot.com']);" href="http://coffee-pot-people.blogspot.com/" target="_self">“Coffee Pot People”.</a></strong> </p>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/09/01-Eek-Yikes-Boo.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-6941" title="01-Eek-Yikes-Boo" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/09/01-Eek-Yikes-Boo.jpg" alt="" width="320" height="458" /></a></p>
<p>I’m a Janie-come-lately to <a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=stamping" target="_self"><strong>stamping</strong></a>, and quickly learning to love it after several recent sessions making tags, decorated envelopes, and ATCs (Artist Trading Cards). I’ve taken to haunting the aisles and websites where <a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=rubber%20stamps" target="_self"><strong>rubber stamps</strong></a> may be found, and am intrigued by the possibilities, especially of stamped words.</p>
<p>One thing I’ve noticed, though, is that the words I might want often aren’t available, and if they are they’re sometimes the wrong size or font.</p>
<p>The other day, I ran across a whole aisle full of foam rubber shapes and <a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=rubber%20stamps%20%20ABC%20%26%20123%20" target="_self"><strong>alphabet letters</strong></a>. Letters? Letters are what you use to make words, and rubber is what rubber stamps are made of! Talk about a light bulb coming on. My options as to size and font might still be limited, but I suddenly had at my disposal any word I wanted. </p>
<p>Here’s how you can build your stamp vocabulary. Start with:</p>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/09/02-You-Will-Need.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-6942" title="02-You-Will-Need" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/09/02-You-Will-Need.jpg" alt="" width="370" height="394" /></a></p>
<ul>
<li>A package of <a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=foam%20letter%20sticker" target="_self"><strong>foam rubber self-adhesive letters</strong></a></li>
<li>An assortment of clear or translucent items to use as foundations for your words—
<ul>
<li><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=panacea%20marble%20accents" target="_self"><strong>Large clear marbles</strong></a></li>
<li>Small plastic boxes</li>
<li><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=Acrylic%20stamp%20block" target="_self"><strong>Acrylic stamp block</strong></a></li>
<li>The little cases digital cards (like your camera card) come in</li>
<li>Scraps of plexi or strong plastic</li>
<li>Cassette tape cases</li>
<li>Etc.—Just take a look around as see what you have!</li>
<li><a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=glue" target="_self"><strong>Glue</strong></a></li>
</ul>
</li>
</ul>
<p>The first step is to figure out what word(s) you want to put together. With Halloween coming up, I wanted to do a few that would be good for Halloween cards and tags—Boo, Eek, Yikes. I also wanted a stand-alone &#8220;Happy&#8221;, something I could put in front of any holiday, occasion, or thing I wanted.</p>
<p>Once you’ve chosen your word, there’s one very important thing to remember: You have to apply the word to the foundation piece backwards, and the letters themselves also have to be backwards. If you don’t do that, you’ll be stamping backwards words and letters.</p>
<p>A note on the foundation for your stamp: You don’t have to use something see-through for it, but if you do, you’ll be able to see exactly where you’re stamping when you use it.</p>
<p>The easiest way to do that is to lay out the letters the way you want the word to appear, on a piece you won’t be using for that particular stamp. Lay the actual foundation piece on top of your word, making a &#8216;word sandwich&#8217;, pick everything up, and carefully flip it over and lay it down.  (It’s rather like turning a molded salad out onto a plate, you know?)</p>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/09/03-Flipping-the-word.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-6943" title="03-Flipping-the-word" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/09/03-Flipping-the-word.jpg" alt="" width="501" height="144" /></a></p>
<p>Glue the letters down. When the glue is thoroughly dry, you can peel the paper backing off the letter stickers. (Remember, you turned the letters over because they had to be backwards.)Your stamp will be assembled, but it will be sticky. Don’t worry about that. A trip or two to the ink pad will take all that away, or you can give them a light dusting of powder, which will also de-stickify them.</p>
<p>That’s it! You made a word stamp!</p>
<p>Here are some of my words:</p>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/09/04-Words-words-words.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-6944" title="04-Words-words-words" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/09/04-Words-words-words.jpg" alt="" width="390" height="309" /></a></p>
<p>Just a few more bits:</p>
<ul>
<li>Some letters are reversible. Take advantage of that, and just stick them down as usual.</li>
<li>Foam letters are very flexible and malleable. Take advantage of that, too.</li>
<li>I didn&#8217;t find any lower case letters, but judging from past experience there are very few you can&#8217;t make with a few judicious snips to the upper case ones.</li>
<li>The word ‘OH’ is also ‘HO’ if you turn the stamp upside down, useful for Santa’s “HO HO HO” later! ‘XO’ for making ‘XOXO’ is also ‘OX’ when turned upside down…Well, you probably won’t ever use that, though.</li>
<li>The bits of foam from inside the circle of the ‘O’, ‘B’, ‘P’, etc. can be used to make a paw stamp, polka dots, and…?</li>
</ul>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/09/05-Uh-oh.jpg"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-6945" title="05-Uh-oh" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/09/05-Uh-oh.jpg" alt="" width="425" height="198" /></a></p>
<p>I’d love to hear what words you decide to make!</p>
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		<title>Zippers</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2010/10/04/lapped-zipper/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2010/10/04/lapped-zipper/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Mon, 04 Oct 2010 14:13:24 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>jessica</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Sewing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Techniques and Mediums]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[lapped ziper]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[put in a zipper]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Techniques & Mediums]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[zipper]]></category>

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		<description><![CDATA[Seth Aaron, from Season 7 of Project Runway was the Zipper Super Star.  He used zippers all the time—and not strictly for practical purposes.  Why, oh why can’t I have this same love for zippers?  Probably because I pretend that I know how to sew them when really I don’t, which creates for major frustration and sewing projects that take way longer than they should.  So, instead of experiencing the same frustration I have in sewing zippers, learn from my mistakes and check out the tutorials that I have found most useful.]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<fb:share-button href="http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2010/10/04/lapped-zipper/" type="box_count"></fb:share-button><p>By Sewing Contributor Jessica, from the blog <a onclick="javascript:_gaq.push(['_trackEvent','outbound-article','lifesewgood.blogspot.com']);" href="http://lifesewgood.blogspot.com/" target="_blank"><strong>“Life Sew Good”. </strong></a> </p>
<p>Oh, for the love. (Can you just see me rolling my eyes?!) </p>
<p>Seth Aaron, from Season 7 of Project Runway was the Zipper Super Star.  He used zippers all the time—and not strictly for practical purposes.  Why, oh why can’t I have this same love for <a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=zipper" target="_self"><strong>zippers</strong></a>?  Probably because I pretend that I know how to sew them when really I don’t, which creates for major frustration and sewing projects that take way longer than they should.  So, instead of experiencing the same frustration I have in sewing zippers, learn from my mistakes and check out the tutorials that I have found most useful.</p>
<p><strong>1.       </strong><strong>Know what kind of zipper you need.  </strong></p>
<p>*Are you using it on a skirt, jeans or other pants?  Sewing a centered or lapped closure is probably most appropriate.  There are several ways to do this.  This is one of the best video tutorials I found on <a href="http://video.about.com/sewing/Sew-a-Lapped-Zipper.htm" target="_self"><strong>how to do this.</strong></a></p>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/zipper.gif"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-6882" title="zipper" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/zipper.gif" alt="" width="417" height="287" /></a></p>
<p>*Are you using it on something more formal? Consider an <a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=invisible%20zipper" target="_self"><strong>invisible zipper</strong></a>.  Personally, I like to use this zipper on my skirts as well.  Now, here’s the deal with these puppies:  they are super easy IF you have a proper invisible zipper foot.  If you don’t, it’s way more work.  Coats &amp; Clark makes <a href="http://www.createforless.com/Coats+_and_+Clark+Invisible+Zipper+Foot+4+pc/pid7211.aspx" target="_self"><strong>zipper feet</strong></a> that work on various machines, but for the record, they won’t work on Brother machines, so order one; you won’t regret it.  The same woman who brought to you the best lapped zipper video, also made a very clear and wonderful <a href="http://video.about.com/sewing/Sew-a-Hidden-Zipper.htm" target="_self"><strong>invisible zipper video</strong></a> (Thanks, Susan) </p>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/zipper2.gif"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-6883" title="zipper2" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/zipper2.gif" alt="" width="259" height="408" /></a></p>
<p>*Are you using it as an exposed zipper or decorative touch?  Make sure you buy a zipper that will complement your fabric.  There are many options out there, but if you don’t find what you are looking for, decorate your own zipper!  This is a really well done <strong><a href="http://www.threadsmagazine.com/item/9385/installing-a-decorative-zipper" target="_self">photo tutorial</a></strong> on how to install a <a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=decorative%20zipper" target="_self"><strong>decorative zipper</strong></a>.</p>
<p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/zipper3.gif"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-6884" title="zipper3" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/10/zipper3.gif" alt="" width="317" height="406" /></a></p>
<p><strong>2. Baste in a different color thread.  </strong></p>
<p>Actually, I recently made this mistake in shooting photos I had intended for this post!  I was using brown thread on brown corduroy fabric and when I got to the point of tearing out my basting stitches, I could not tell which my basting stitches were and which my real stitches were.  It was especially problematic when they crossed.  Oopsy. </p>
<p><strong>3. Don’t skip steps.</strong></p>
<p>If you really have an aversion to basting, then at least <a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=fabric%20glue" target="_self"><strong>glue</strong></a> it or <a href="http://www.createforless.com/search/results.aspx?txtSearch=fabric%20tape" target="_self"><strong>tape</strong></a> it for a few minutes.  If you want to have a finished, professional looking garment, then do it the right way the first time!</p>
<p><strong>4. There are different methods to sewing zippers.  Find what works!</strong></p>
<p>If you find one way that works for sewing your zippers, then stick with it; however, if you’re getting frustrated and not getting the results you need, then search other ways to insert your zipper! </p>
<p><strong>5. If you don’t do it a lot, you’ll forget.  </strong></p>
<p>The only good solution to this is to sew many, many garments, so go for it!</p>
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		<title>Free Stuff Friday!!</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2010/07/09/free-stuff-friday-33/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2010/07/09/free-stuff-friday-33/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Fri, 09 Jul 2010 12:05:07 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator>Allie</dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Contests]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Free Stuff Friday!!]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Quilting]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Contest]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Craft Drawing]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[craft giveaway]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[CreateForLess giveaway]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Free Stuff Friday]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Giveaway]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[quilting books]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[quilting patterns]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/?p=5861</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Calling all quilters! We&#8217;ve got a giveaway for you! Enter to win two quilting design books, the C&#38;T Publishing Ricky Tims Celtic Fantasy Book and  Adaptable Quilting Designs by Sue Patten.   With the Ricky Tims Celtic Fantasy Book add drama to your quilts with flowing Celtic appliqué designs like knots, trees, flowers and more. [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<fb:share-button href="http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2010/07/09/free-stuff-friday-33/" type="box_count"></fb:share-button><p><a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/05/free-stuff-friday1.gif"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-4882" title="free-stuff-friday" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/05/free-stuff-friday1.gif" alt="" width="210" height="155" /></a></p>
<p>Calling all quilters! We&#8217;ve got a giveaway for you! Enter to win two quilting design books, the <a href="http://www.createforless.com/C_and_T+Publishing+Ricky+Tims+Celtic+Fantasy+Book/pid145499.aspx" target="_self"><strong>C&amp;T Publishing Ricky Tims Celtic Fantasy Book</strong></a> and  Adaptable Quilting Designs by Sue Patten.</p>
<p>  <a href="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/07/quilting-book.gif"><img class="aligncenter size-full wp-image-5862" title="quilting book" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/files/2010/07/quilting-book.gif" alt="" width="464" height="259" /></a></p>
<p>With the <a href="http://www.createforless.com/C_and_T+Publishing+Ricky+Tims+Celtic+Fantasy+Book/pid145499.aspx" target="_self"><strong>Ricky Tims Celtic Fantasy Book</strong></a> add drama to your quilts with flowing Celtic appliqué designs like knots, trees, flowers and more. You get a full-size freezer paper pattern, plus 9 bonus quilt &#8220;skeletons&#8221; and 25 Celtic appliqué designs.</p>
<p>Adaptable Quilting Designs has quilting patterns were made specifically to address the need to do more than stitch-in-the-ditch in problem areas such as strips, squares, corners, and triangles. This much-needed addition to any quilter&#8217;s quilting pattern library is formatted for ease of shrinking or enlarging every design to fit the tricky spaces that happen on all quilts. Minimal text provides maximum space for inspiration or tracing. Over 2 dozen color photos provide additional visual instruction for the quiltmaker.</p>
<p>Every Friday we’ll post a giveaway on Think Crafts and all you have to do is comment on the blog post answering the question of the week. We’ll pick the winner and contact them via email. Deadline is midnight tonight and the winner will be announced Monday. One entry per person please. Contest opened to all US residents.</p>
<p><strong>Question of week: What is your favorite summer time treat? </strong></p>
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		<title>Jewelry Making Jargon</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/07/24/jewelry-making-jargon-2/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/07/24/jewelry-making-jargon-2/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Thu, 24 Jul 2008 23:35:21 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jewelry Making]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jewelry Crafts]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/jewelry-making-jargon-2/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Texture: refers to the physical surface qualities of the plant or flowers in an arrangement. Smooth, glossy, rough, soft. It can also refer to the size of leaves, twigs, or branches in an arrangement. Wreath: flowers, twigs, grasses, and/or vines intertwined in a circular or continuous shape. Alloy: metal made up of a mixture of [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<fb:share-button href="http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/07/24/jewelry-making-jargon-2/" type="box_count"></fb:share-button><table border="0" cellPadding="3" cellSpacing="0">
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Texture:</strong></td>
<td>refers to the physical surface qualities of the plant or flowers in an arrangement. Smooth, glossy, rough, soft. It can also refer to the size of leaves, twigs, or branches in an arrangement.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Wreath:</strong></td>
<td>flowers, twigs, grasses, and/or vines intertwined in a circular or continuous shape.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Alloy: </strong></td>
<td>metal made up of a mixture of two or more different metals. Common examples of alloys include bronze (a mixture of copper and tin), brass (copper and zinc), and pewter (tin with antimony, copper and sometimes lead</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Annealed: </strong></td>
<td>softened by heat</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bail: </strong></td>
<td>metal triangle used to attach a bead or a pendant to a necklace</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Baroque: </strong></td>
<td>irregular, rounded stone, glass or bead</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Base Metal: </strong></td>
<td>non-precious metals used as a core for plating and gold-filled items; brass and nickel are common base metals in jewelry</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bead Loom: </strong></td>
<td>wood or plastic frame used to stretch warp threads for bead weaving</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bead Tip: </strong></td>
<td>jewelry finding used for attaching thread to a clasp. A knot sits inside a small concave shape attached to a bent metal loop</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Beeswax: </strong></td>
<td>used to strengthen and smooth beading thread</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bell Cap: </strong></td>
<td>jewelry finding used to convert a bead or stone with no hole into a pendant using glue</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bib: </strong></td>
<td>necklace that fits close to the base of the neck and extends over the chest in the shape of child&#8217;s bib</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Burr: </strong></td>
<td>roughness left by a tool in cutting wire or metal</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cabochon: </strong></td>
<td>a round or oval stone, cut and polished with one flat side (the back) and one smooth domed side (the front or face); afaceted cabochon is cut with faceted surfaces around the edge of the stone</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Catches: </strong></td>
<td>used for necklaces and bracelets to attach or clasp one end to the other end</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Choker: </strong></td>
<td>short necklace, usually 15 inches long, fitting snugly at the base of the neck</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Coil: </strong></td>
<td>flat spiral of wire or metal</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Crimp Bead: </strong></td>
<td>small, soft metal beads that are squeezed shut to secure loops of threading material fasteners onto clasps</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Dog collar: </strong></td>
<td>wide choker, worn tightly around the neck</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Drop: </strong></td>
<td>attachment to jewelry that allows bead or metal to dangle away from the main line of the jewelry piece</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Eyepin: </strong></td>
<td>wire finding with a loop at one end. used for linking beads or beaded links together</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Facet: </strong></td>
<td>flat, polished surface cut into a stone or bead</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Findings: </strong></td>
<td>as in jewelry findings, head pins, eye pins, fastenings, brooch and earring fittings, and more</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Gauge: </strong></td>
<td>measure of dimension</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Gold: </strong></td>
<td>yellow colored, soft, shiny metal commonly used in jewelry. The purity of gold is measured in &#8220;karats.&#8221; 24 karat (or 24k) denotes pure or fine gold; 12k is 50% gold; 14k is about 58% gold. Gold that is less than 24k is actually an alloy</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Gold-filled: </strong></td>
<td>thin layer of gold bonded to a base metal core. In gold-filled products, the gold layer must be at least 1/20th (5%) of the overall product, by weight</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Gold-plated: </strong></td>
<td>very thin layer of gold bonded to a base metal core</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Hat Pin: </strong></td>
<td>very straight, often long eye pin with a sharp end, which usually has a back or cover. Originally used to help the ladies keep on their hats, modern use is ornamental rather than functional. Most of pin is exposed to the eye</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Head Pin: </strong></td>
<td>also known as eye pins; long wires with a flattened end, used for basic component in many bead style earrings or for attaching beads to any type of jewelry piece</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Hoop: </strong></td>
<td>circular earrings</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Jump Rings: </strong></td>
<td>small metal rings used to attach necklace fastenings and to join metal lines</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Knot: </strong></td>
<td>knots are formed to each side of bead to separate, space, or secure</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Lampwork: </strong></td>
<td>technique for making glass beads by hand. A glass rod or cane is held into a flame or &#8220;lamp&#8221; and wound around a mandrel. The bead is shaped or smoothed by rotating the mandrel through the flame</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Lapel Pin: </strong></td>
<td>also known as a bar pin; eye pin is bent to form clasp, is threaded, and then bent again to hold beads in place and form a pin back; back of pin not exposed to the eye</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Lapidary: </strong></td>
<td>cutting, shaping, polishing and creating jewelry from precious and semi-precious stones</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Lavaliere: </strong></td>
<td>necklace with a drop of a single stone suspended from a chain</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Loaf: </strong></td>
<td>block of clay with a pattern throughout; usually a square shape</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Log: </strong></td>
<td>roll of clay that is thicker than a cane</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Matinee: </strong></td>
<td>necklace 24 to 26 inches long; in Europe, 30 to 35 inches</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Opera: </strong></td>
<td>necklace 28 to 30 inches long; in Europe, 48 to 90 inches, can extend to 120 inches</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Opacity: </strong></td>
<td>quality of not allowing light to pass through (the quality of being opaque)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Opaque: </strong></td>
<td>not allowing light to pass through; solid</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Paste: </strong></td>
<td>jewelry made of glass imitating faceted gemstones</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Pendant: </strong></td>
<td>main bead or other &#8220;show&#8221; piece that is dropped from a necklace</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Princess: </strong></td>
<td>necklace 20 to 21 inches long</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rope: </strong></td>
<td>string of beads, pearls, stones used to form a bracelet or necklace</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sautoir: </strong></td>
<td>long necklace popular in the 1920s; usually made of chains, beads, or pearls and ending in a tassel or fringe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Silver: </strong></td>
<td>white colored, soft, shiny metal, commonly used in jewelry. Like gold, silver is available in different levels of purity: the purest form, <strong><em>Fine</em></strong> silver, is 99.9% silver; <strong><em>Sterling</em></strong> silver is 92.5% silver, with other metals (usually copper) making up the remaining 7.5%; <strong><em>Coin</em></strong> silver is 90% silver with 10% copper. Nickel silver is an alloy of copper (65%), nickel and zinc &#8211; no silver at all</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Silver-plated: </strong></td>
<td>a very thin layer of silver bonded to a base metal core</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Split Ring: </strong></td>
<td>small base metal finding resembling a key-ring</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Stud: </strong></td>
<td>as in earring, simple earring with no drops</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Torsade: </strong></td>
<td>combination of several strands of pearls, chains, or beads twisted together into a single necklace</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Translucent: </strong></td>
<td>allowing some light to pass through; objects seen through translucent material are diffused or indistinct</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Transparent: </strong></td>
<td>easily seen through; allowing light to pass through without obscuring the ability to see objects on the other side</td>
</tr>
</table>
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		<title>Woodworking Jargon</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/woodworking-jargon/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/woodworking-jargon/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 23:54:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/woodworking-jargon/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Arris: the sharp corner formed by the meeting of two adjacent surfaces of a board Astragal: narrow, half-round molding Backlash: slack or play in the adjustment mechanism of the plane Baller: tool used to round over the end of a dowel Barefaced Joint: joint in which one or more of its shoulders are eliminated Bead: [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<fb:share-button href="http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/woodworking-jargon/" type="box_count"></fb:share-button><table border="0" cellPadding="3" cellSpacing="0">
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Arris: </strong></td>
<td>the sharp corner formed by the meeting of two adjacent surfaces of a board</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Astragal: </strong></td>
<td>narrow, half-round molding</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Backlash: </strong></td>
<td>slack or play in the adjustment mechanism of the plane</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Baller: </strong></td>
<td>tool used to round over the end of a dowel</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Barefaced Joint: </strong></td>
<td>joint in which one or more of its shoulders are eliminated</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bead: </strong></td>
<td>traditional decoration often used with a tongue-and- groove joint to hide the gap between the boards</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bedding Angle: </strong></td>
<td>angle at which the frog or bed of the plane holds the plane iron</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bench Planes: </strong></td>
<td>planes used to smooth the face and edges of a board</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bevel: </strong></td>
<td>angle other than 90 degrees; inside surface that is sharpened on a plane blade, chisel, or other cutting tool; tool used to mark angles; it consists of a stock or handle and an adjustable blade and the edge of the stock rests against the edge of a board and the blade rests across the face: also called a bevel square or sliding T bevel</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bow: </strong></td>
<td>distortion in a board that causes the face to curve from end to end. If you place the face of a bowed board on a flat surface the center of the board will rest on the surface while the ends are above the surface</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Block Planes: </strong></td>
<td>small planes that fit into the palm of your hand used primarily for trimming</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Block Cushion Grainer: </strong></td>
<td>wood-graining tool used to mechanically reproduce wood grains; it has a rubber face that is covered with concentric, semi-circular grooves</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Boxing: </strong></td>
<td>process of adding a new piece of wood to the front of the mouth of the plane</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Burnished surface: </strong></td>
<td>surface that has a smooth, polished look</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cabinet scraper: </strong></td>
<td>scraper with a cast-iron body that holds a scraper blade</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Camber: </strong></td>
<td>slight convexity, arch, or curvature</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cambium: </strong></td>
<td>layer of cells just beneath the bark of a tree where new growth occurs</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Carcass: </strong></td>
<td>basic box or frame of a cabinet</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Chalking: </strong></td>
<td>dusty film of pigments left on the surface of weathered paint</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Chamfer: </strong></td>
<td>beveled cut on an edge</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cheek: </strong></td>
<td>part of the joint that is parallel with the face or edge</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Clearance angle: </strong></td>
<td>angle formed between the work and the underside of the cutting edge of the blade</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Closed-grain: </strong></td>
<td>wood with no easily discernible pore structure; does not require filling to achieve a smooth finish</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Combination Plane: </strong></td>
<td>any plane that can be used for more than one job</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Common Pitch: </strong></td>
<td>refers to a plane iron held at 45 degrees to the work by the frog or bed</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Compass Plane: </strong></td>
<td>plane used to make convex or concave shapes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Corner: </strong></td>
<td>on a board the corner is the place where the face, edge and end meet</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Crook: </strong></td>
<td>distortion in the edge of a board that causes the edge to curve from end to end; when the edge is placed on a flat surface the center of the edge will touch the surface while the ends are above the surface</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cove: </strong></td>
<td>concave molding cut into the edge of the board</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Crosscutting: </strong></td>
<td>process of cutting a board at approximately a right angle to the grain direction</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cutting Angle: </strong></td>
<td>angle formed between the work and the top of the blade</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Dado: </strong></td>
<td>flat bottomed recess cut into the face of a board across the grain</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Dress: </strong></td>
<td>improve or smooth the surface of the wood</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Dust Nibs: </strong></td>
<td>tiny bumps in a finished surface caused by dust particles landing on the wet finish</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Edges: </strong></td>
<td>the narrowest surfaces of a board that are approximately parallel with the grain direction</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Edge-Grain Wood: </strong></td>
<td>term applied to quarter-sawed wood, particularly softwood</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Ends: </strong></td>
<td>narrowest surfaces of a board that are approximately perpendicular with the grain direction</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>End Grain: </strong></td>
<td>wood surface that has been cut at a 90&#8243; angle to the length of the cells, often the end of a piece of lumber; end grain absorbs finishing material to a greater degree than other wood surfaces because open-cell cavities are exposed at the surface</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Face: </strong></td>
<td>the four surfaces of a board that are approximately parallel to the grain; or the two widest surfaces of a board also called sides; or the widest surface of a board with the least number of defects is sometimes called the best face or select face</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Filler Stick: </strong></td>
<td>wax-based wood putty in stick form available in a variety of colors and frequently used to fill nail holes after a finish has been applied</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fillet: </strong></td>
<td>flat section on a molding used to separate a section of the molding</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Filling: </strong></td>
<td>process of packing the pores of open-grained wood with filler to create a smooth surface.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fish Eyes: </strong></td>
<td>small, round depressions in a finished surface; frequently caused by contamination of the finish with silicones</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Flat: </strong></td>
<td>finished surface with no gloss</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fluting: </strong></td>
<td>decorative molding that is frequently used as a decoration on table legs</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fore Plane: </strong></td>
<td>plane about 18 inches long used to surface or dress rough lumber</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Grain: </strong></td>
<td>orientation of the fibers in the wood, or a term used to describe the visible pattern of pores and growth rings on a board; pattern produced by the annual rings in a piece of wood; also refers to the direction of the wood fibers</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Grinding: </strong></td>
<td>coarse wearing away of a softer material by the abrasive actions of a harder material</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Grit: </strong></td>
<td>abrasive particles used in coated abrasives</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Groove: </strong></td>
<td>a flat-bottomed recess cut into the face of a board with the grain</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Gutter Plane: </strong></td>
<td>plane with a convex sole and iron that can be used to make large architectural moldings such as the cove molding</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Hand Scraper: </strong></td>
<td>simple scraper that consists of a steel blade that is held in your hands</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Hardwood: </strong></td>
<td>wood derived from broad-leafed trees; has no relation to the actual hardness of the wood</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Heartwood: </strong></td>
<td>wood from the center portion of the log. It is generally darker and more decay-resistant than the younger sapwood</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>High spots: </strong></td>
<td>areas of the board that are thicker or wider than the rest of the board</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Honing: </strong></td>
<td>giving a keen edge to a plane iron</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Jack Plane: </strong></td>
<td>a plane 12 to 17 inches long that is used to remove saw marks from lumber and cut down high spots</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Jointer: </strong></td>
<td>a plane 22 to 36 inches long that is designed to make an edge straight and square with the face of the board</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Jointing: </strong></td>
<td>making an edge straight and square with the face of the board</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Kerf: </strong></td>
<td>a cut made in a board with a saw.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Knot: </strong></td>
<td>the intersection between a limb and the trunk of a tree that shows up in sawed lumber as a round, oval, or spike shaped area that is darker and harder than the surrounding wood</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Length: </strong></td>
<td>the dimension of a board running parallel with the grain</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Match Planes: </strong></td>
<td>planes used to make tongue-and-groove joints; these planes are used in pairs: one plane cuts the tongue and the other plane cuts the groove</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Microbevels: </strong></td>
<td>small, secondary bevels at the tip of the plane iron</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Mill Marks: </strong></td>
<td>marks left by a planer that give the surface of a board a wavy appearance</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Mitre Joint: </strong></td>
<td>a joint that is cut at an angle; when two boards meet at 90 degrees, the mitre angle is 45 degree</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Mortise and Tenon Joint: </strong></td>
<td>a joint in which a projection called a tenon on one board fits into a pocket called a mortise in the other board</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Ogee: </strong></td>
<td>a molding with an S-shaped profile</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Open Grain: </strong></td>
<td>the appearance of wood with large, visible pores that must be filled with paste filler to achieve a smooth surface; there are two types of open-grained wood: ring-porous and diffuse-porous: ring-porous woods like oak and ash have large pores at the beginning of each annual ring and diffuse porous wood like Philippine mahogany have large pores evenly distributed throughout the wood</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Particle Board: </strong></td>
<td>a man-made reconstituted wood product that is made from very small wood chips or particles bonded together with glue under heat and pressure</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Patina: </strong></td>
<td>the condition of a wood and its finish that develops over time; it is characterized by a smooth, worn surface and darkening of the wood; also includes the build-up of waxes and oils that have been applied to wood over time and the scars and marks that are acquired through use</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Pointer: </strong></td>
<td>a tool used to taper the end of a dowel.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Pores: </strong></td>
<td>small openings in the surface of a board</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>PSI: </strong></td>
<td>Pounds per Square Inch; a way to measure the pressure of compressed air</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Quarter-Sawed: </strong></td>
<td>wood that has been cut so that the annual rings form an angle of 45&#8243; to 90&#8243; with the surface; also called edge-grain, vertical-grain, or quarter-sawn</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Quirk: </strong></td>
<td>the small groove that defines the edges of the bead</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Radius Plane: </strong></td>
<td>a plane used to round or chamfer the edges of a board</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Raised Grain: </strong></td>
<td>a condition that occurs when water causes wood fibers to swell so that some stand above the surface of the board</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rake Angle: </strong></td>
<td>the angle formed between the top of the cutting edge and a line perpendicular to the work surface</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rank Setting: </strong></td>
<td>the setting of a plane iron (blade) that will make a heavy cut</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Reed: </strong></td>
<td>a series of beads cut side by side</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Ripping: </strong></td>
<td>the process of cutting a board approximately parallel to the grain.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rotary-Cut: </strong></td>
<td>wood that is cut by rotating a log against a fixed knife to produce a continuous sheet</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rounder: </strong></td>
<td>a tool used to make dowels or round stock</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Router Plane: </strong></td>
<td>a plane used to smooth the bottom of a recess, which is a cut indentation in a piece of wood</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sandpaper: </strong></td>
<td>a coated abrasive with a paper backing</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sapwood: </strong></td>
<td>The new wood near the outside of a tree; generally lighter in color and more prone to decay than heartwood which is in the center of a log</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sash planes: </strong></td>
<td>a special moulding plane used to make windows</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Scraper: </strong></td>
<td>a tool used for the final smoothing of wood</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sharpening Angle: </strong></td>
<td>the angle that you hold the blade at while you hone it on a whetstone</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Shooting Boards:</strong></td>
<td>boards with straight, true edges that are used to guide the plane</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Shoulder: </strong></td>
<td>the part of the joint that is cut 90 degrees to the face or edge of the board; a joint only has a shoulder when that part of the board that fits into a joint must be thinner or narrower than the rest of the board</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sides: </strong></td>
<td>the two widest surfaces of a board, also called faces</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Siphon-Feed Gun: </strong></td>
<td>a spray gun that uses atmospheric pressure to deliver liquid from the cup to the nozzle</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Skew: </strong></td>
<td>to set something at an angle</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Slipstone: </strong></td>
<td>small whetstone that is rounded or tapered</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Smooth Plane: </strong></td>
<td>plane 9 or 10 inches long used to smooth the surface of a board,</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Softwood: </strong></td>
<td>wood produced by trees that have needles rather than broad leaves</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Stick: </strong></td>
<td>the board that the moulding is cut into</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Striking: </strong></td>
<td>the process of cutting mouldings</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Stopped: </strong></td>
<td>a cut or joint that ends before the edge or end of a board. For example, a stopped dado ends before the front edge of the board.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Stropping: </strong></td>
<td>process sometimes used when sharpening a plane blade in which a piece of leather that is impregnated with a fine abrasive is used to make the cutting edge very sharp</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Tack Rag: </strong></td>
<td>piece of cheesecloth that has been treated so that it attracts dust</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Tampico: </strong></td>
<td>natural filament derived from plants in the cactus family; it is resistant to chemicals and is used primarily in brushes used to apply chemical stains</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Tannin: </strong></td>
<td>acid found in wood; it forms different-colored compounds when it reacts with certain chemicals; most chemical stains depend on a reaction with the tannin in wood</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Taper: </strong></td>
<td>gradual angle cut on one or more faces of a board</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Tear-Out: </strong></td>
<td>condition that occurs when the grain of a board changes direction and the plane blade starts to chip the wood</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Temper: </strong></td>
<td>the correct heat treatment of a tool&#8217;s metal, to make it stay sharp longer</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Tongue And Groove Joint: </strong></td>
<td>a two-part joint in which a projection on one board called a tongue fits into a groove on the other board</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Tuning: </strong></td>
<td>the process of adjusting all of the working parts of a plane to their optimum positions and removing all imperfections in the casting left from the manufacturing process</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Turning: </strong></td>
<td>piece of wood that has been shaped on a lathe</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Twist: </strong></td>
<td>a distortion in a board that results in the ends of a board not being parallel. When the face of a twisted board is placed on a flat surface, one corner of the board will be lifted off the surface.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Universal Plane: </strong></td>
<td>any plane that can be used with cutters of different sizes</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Veneer: </strong></td>
<td>a thin sheet of wood; face veneers are usually made from expensive wood species and applied over cheaper wood&#8217;s core; veneers are made from inexpensive woods like fir and are used for the inner plies in plywood; veneers may be produced by rotary process, slicing or sawing</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Warp: </strong></td>
<td>any distortion in the shape of a board caused by changes in the moisture content of the wood</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Water Stain: </strong></td>
<td>a clear, permanent aniline dye stain that uses water as its solvent; it will raise the grain of the wood</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Wet Or Dry Sandpaper: </strong></td>
<td>sandpaper that uses waterproof glue to attach the abrasive particles to a water-resistant paper backing</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Whetstones: </strong></td>
<td>abrasive stones used to sharpen edge tools</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Whitewood: </strong></td>
<td>wood that has not yet been finished</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Wood Putty: </strong></td>
<td>a doughy product used to fill nail holes and defects in wood.</td>
</tr>
</table>
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		<item>
		<title>Wood Finishes and Finishing Jargon</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/wood-finishes-and-finishing-jargon/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/wood-finishes-and-finishing-jargon/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 23:52:48 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/wood-finishes-and-finishing-jargon/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Adhesion: the property causing one material to stick to another Barrier Coat: a coat applied which separates the substrate from contact with the topcoats Bleeding: when a dye or color absorbs through to the top layer; this is due to a common solvency of the topcoat and the dye Bloom: a bluish haze of a [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<fb:share-button href="http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/wood-finishes-and-finishing-jargon/" type="box_count"></fb:share-button><table border="0" cellPadding="3" cellSpacing="0">
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Adhesion: </strong></td>
<td>the property causing one material to stick to another</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Barrier Coat: </strong></td>
<td>a coat applied which separates the substrate from contact with the topcoats</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bleeding: </strong></td>
<td>when a dye or color absorbs through to the top layer; this is due to a common solvency of the topcoat and the dye</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bloom: </strong></td>
<td>a bluish haze of a film usually caused by insufficient drying time of the oil stain before top-coating</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Blushing: </strong></td>
<td>a white, milky cast in a film which is caused by trapping moisture into the film; blushing can be prevented and eliminated by slowing down the drying of the coating by adding a blush retarder</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Blush Retarder: </strong></td>
<td>a reducer with slower drying properties</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Body: </strong></td>
<td>the thickness of viscosity of the coating while in liquid form</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bond: </strong></td>
<td>the adhesion of or ability of two items to stick to one another</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bridge: </strong></td>
<td>when a finish forms a layer over a crack or void</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Coat: </strong></td>
<td>the act of applying a coating to a surface</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Coating: </strong></td>
<td>any material applied to a surface leaving a protective layer on that surface</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cold Checking: </strong></td>
<td>the cracking of a finish due to exposure to cold temperatures</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Crawling: </strong></td>
<td>when a coating applied tends to flow away from areas leaving them uncoated; this is usually caused by grease or oil contamination of the surface to be coated</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>De-Laminate: </strong></td>
<td>the separation of layers due to lack of adhesion</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Distressing: </strong></td>
<td>fly speck spotting (and/or other age marks like hammering) in the finished surface or on the substrate</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Dye: </strong></td>
<td>a coloring material that dissolves in a system very transparent and not as color fast as a pigment</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Dry Hard: </strong></td>
<td>the elapsed time at which a coating has reached its optimum hardness</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fading: </strong></td>
<td>the loss of color due to exposure to sunlight</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fast to Light: </strong></td>
<td>a color which is not significantly affected by exposure to sunlight</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Finish: </strong></td>
<td>general term referring to the final protective coat done to add life to the piece painted that can be applied by brush or spray</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fish Eye: </strong></td>
<td>pock marks or craters that show up on finished surface when silicone is present</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Flash point: </strong></td>
<td>the temperature at which a material will ignite when exposed to a source of ignition</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Flat or Matte: </strong></td>
<td>a dull finish with little light reflection; non-glossy</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Flood: </strong></td>
<td>the act of very heavily applying a coating to the substrate</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Flow: </strong></td>
<td>the smoothing and leveling out of a coating</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Glaze: </strong></td>
<td>an oil based pigment which is applied between lacquer coats to accent or give a graining effect</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Gloss: </strong></td>
<td>the shininess or reflectability of a surface</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Holiday: </strong></td>
<td>an uncoated area of a coated surface usually missed unintentionally</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Incompatible: </strong></td>
<td>used in reference to coatings and/or stains that are not capable of being mixed with one another</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Leveling: </strong></td>
<td>the act of applying a coat which will smooth out a previously rough coat</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Opaque/Opacity: </strong></td>
<td>the degree of hiding of a pigmented coating. The opposite of transparent.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Orange Peel: </strong></td>
<td>a rough surface of a film similar in appearance to the skin of an orange</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Pigment: </strong></td>
<td>a finely ground, insoluble powder which contributes color to a coating &#8211; usually very color fast</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Pinholeing: </strong></td>
<td>the appearance of numerous small holes in a film, usually caused by bubbles due to heat drying of the coating</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Primer: </strong></td>
<td>a coating which is first applied to a bare surface to make it smooth and help paint adhere to the surface</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Reducer: </strong></td>
<td>to add solvent in order to thin a material to a workable thickness (viscosity)</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sanding Sealer: </strong></td>
<td>a lacquer formulated to give better filling and sandability than the topcoat lacquer</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Substrate: </strong></td>
<td>the surface or material to be coated</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Transparent: </strong></td>
<td>clear enough to see through</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Translucent: </strong></td>
<td>allows light to pass through but not clear enough to see through</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Viscosity: </strong></td>
<td>the thickness of a coating material in its liquid form</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Volatile: </strong></td>
<td>the solvent portion of a coating</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Washcoat: </strong></td>
<td>very thin coat of shellac or sealer</td>
</tr>
</table>
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		<item>
		<title>Trending Terms</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/craft-trending-terms/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/craft-trending-terms/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 23:50:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Trends]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/trending-terms/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[These terms focuses on the words you hear and read about when trends are mentioned in the craft industry. Trends revolved around color, technique, medium, and theme. Bead: Small piece of hard material pierced with hole for threading on string, wire, or ribbon. Beading: decoration with beads. Cane: Logs of various shapes and sheets of [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<fb:share-button href="http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/craft-trending-terms/" type="box_count"></fb:share-button><table border="0" cellPadding="3" cellSpacing="0">
<tr>
<td colSpan="2">These terms focuses on the words you hear and read about when trends are mentioned in the craft industry. Trends revolved around color, technique, medium, and theme.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bead:</strong></td>
<td>Small piece of hard material pierced with hole for threading on string, wire, or ribbon.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Beading:</strong></td>
<td>decoration with beads.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cane:</strong></td>
<td>Logs of various shapes and sheets of polymer clay that are joined together to form a cane. Ends are removed to show pattern. Each slice of cane will then be the exact pattern.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Color:</strong></td>
<td>a phenomenon of light or visual perception that enables one to differentiate identical items</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Color Value:</strong></td>
<td>Lightness or darkness of a color.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Consistency:</strong></td>
<td>the thinness or thickness of a paint</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Contrast:</strong></td>
<td>the sharp difference between two colors</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Count:</strong></td>
<td>The number given a yarn or fiber to indicate its yardage per weight.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Crinkling:</strong></td>
<td>To make or become wrinkled, rippled, roughened, or creased. Usually done to fabrics like linen, challis, silk, or cotton.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Dye:</strong></td>
<td>a color used for staining, tinting, or toning a medium. There is no separation of ingredients once dye is made.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fad:</strong></td>
<td>interest followed for a time with exaggerated zeal, craze.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Finishing:</strong></td>
<td>Any treatment given to a fabric after weaving or to garments after cleaning to improve appearance like sizing or ironing.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Faux Finish:</strong></td>
<td>literally fake finish; using paints and tools to create a real look to a fake medium; texture and dimension added to surface of medium. Examples: marbleizing paper or wood, strippling glass or concrete, antiquing or weathering new metals or gold foiling plastic.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Flowable pigment:</strong></td>
<td>Lighter mixture of pigment, moves more like a dye, but will separate</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Hand:</strong></td>
<td>The feel, body, drape, or touch of the surface of fabric</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Hue:</strong></td>
<td>the name of a pure color.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Intensity:</strong></td>
<td>color&#8217;s purity or strength</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Loaf:</strong></td>
<td>Another word for cane.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Log:</strong></td>
<td>also called snake or rod. A solid cylindrical piece of polymer clay.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Medium:</strong></td>
<td>Material being used; example: wood, fabric, paper, clay, or plastic</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Millefiore:</strong></td>
<td>Italian; translated means &#8220;Thousand Flowers,&#8221; Technique originated by glassmakers and adopted by polymer clay craftsmen and artist.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Motif:</strong></td>
<td>another term for theme.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Nib, Nep, Nubb:</strong></td>
<td>Small bits of fiber that stick above surface of otherwise smooth fabric.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Paint:</strong></td>
<td>pigment mixed with liquid to produce color. Types: oil, water, acrylic, enamel.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Piece:</strong></td>
<td>Length of fabric</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Pigment:</strong></td>
<td>powder mixed with suitable liquid to produce color. Mixture will separate.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Primary colors:</strong></td>
<td>red, blue, yellow</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Secondary colors:</strong></td>
<td>mixing of primary colors; green, orange, purple</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Skein:</strong></td>
<td>a coil of yarn also called hank</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Shade:</strong></td>
<td>a color plus black</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Stenciling:</strong></td>
<td>Painting or dying using a template or design cut out of plastic, heavy paper, or metal</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Strippling:</strong></td>
<td>Dab paint up and down to give contrast or texture.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sponging:</strong></td>
<td>painting with a sponge to give texture and dimension. Sponge can be dabbed or pressed onto surface. Sponges can be of many natural or man-made varieties.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Technique:</strong></td>
<td>Skill being used; example weaving, stenciling, carving, or quilting.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Theme:</strong></td>
<td>subject, topic, or motif; example nature, family, barnyard, or flowers</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Tint:</strong></td>
<td>a color plus white</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Tone:</strong></td>
<td>a color plus grey</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Trend:</strong></td>
<td>a general direction taken, a current style or preference, vogue.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Wash:</strong></td>
<td>diluted paint used to stain or basecoat surface</td>
</tr>
</table>
<table border="0" cellPadding="0" cellSpacing="0">
<tr>
<td><img border="0" width="1" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/images/retail/shim.gif" height="10" /></td>
</tr>
</table>
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		<title>Stone Jargon</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/stone-jargon/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/stone-jargon/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 23:49:11 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jewelry Making]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Jewelry Crafts]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/stone-jargon/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Amethyst: transparent purple stone, sometimes with inclusions. Hues range from lavender to deep regal purple. Aventurine: green or blue semi-translucent to mostly opaque stone with mica flecks that cause a slight metallic iridescence Black Onyx: a black opaque stone Bloodstone: dark green opaque stone with red spotting Blue Lace Agate: light blue translucent stone with [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<fb:share-button href="http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/stone-jargon/" type="box_count"></fb:share-button><table border="0" cellPadding="3" cellSpacing="0">
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Amethyst: </strong></td>
<td>transparent purple stone, sometimes with inclusions. Hues range from lavender to deep regal purple.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Aventurine: </strong></td>
<td>green or blue semi-translucent to mostly opaque stone with mica flecks that cause a slight metallic iridescence</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Black Onyx: </strong></td>
<td>a black opaque stone</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bloodstone: </strong></td>
<td>dark green opaque stone with red spotting</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Blue Lace Agate: </strong></td>
<td>light blue translucent stone with white or milky banding</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cape Amethyst<br />
(Amethyst Quartz): </strong></td>
<td>translucent light to medium purple stone with white banding</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Carnelian: </strong></td>
<td>orange to bright red-orange translucent stone</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Clear Quartz<br />
(Rock Crystal): </strong></td>
<td>a colorless transparent stone</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fancy Jasper: </strong></td>
<td>an opaque multi-colored stone; colors are muted and range from green-blue to pinkish to orange-yellow frequently in the same stone</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fluorite: </strong></td>
<td>a transparent stone; green and purple with clear areas or bands</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Garnet: </strong></td>
<td>a transparent stone ranging in color from light red to darkish plum red</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Hematite: </strong></td>
<td>a silvery, shiny opaque stone that almost looks like metal</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Iolite: </strong></td>
<td>a transparent blue-violet stone; the lighter colors show more of the violet hue</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Lapis Lazuli: </strong></td>
<td>a dark, royal blue opaque stone with white veins or patches called calcite and a few gold-looking metallic flecks called pyrite</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Malachite: </strong></td>
<td>an opaque, banded stone; the colors in the bands range from a very light green to almost black</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Moonstone: </strong></td>
<td>a translucent milky stone with a little iridescence; can be found in several colors, most common are whitish-clear, grey, and light peach</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Moss Agate: </strong></td>
<td>not an agate, strictly speaking, but a chalcedony. Semi-transparent to opaque, mostly a variety of green tones with a little white or clear</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Natural Carnelian: </strong></td>
<td>a light to medium orange translucent stone, frequently with areas of lighter and darker orange for a banded or mottled look</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Natural Onyx: </strong></td>
<td>a semi-translucent to opaque, light colored stone with some banding found in varying degrees of yellowish-white, pale greenish-white, and grey</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Picture Jasper: </strong></td>
<td>a tan, opaque stone with medium and dark brown patches</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Poppy Jasper: </strong></td>
<td>opaque with colors of brick red, whites, browns and blacks</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Red Jasper: </strong></td>
<td>an opaque, mostly red stone</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rhodochrosite: </strong></td>
<td>a medium to light pink opaque stone with cream or creamy-pink banding</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rhodonite: </strong></td>
<td>a pink, opaque stone from medium pink to dusty rose, often with black inclusions</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rose Quartz: </strong></td>
<td>a pink transparent stone, sometimes leaning toward translucent, or with inclusions</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Smokey Quartz: </strong></td>
<td>a brown transparent stone; color ranges from very slightly brown to dark</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Tiger&#8217;s Eye: </strong></td>
<td>an opaque brown stone, with bands of darker brown and golden-yellow</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Unakite: </strong></td>
<td>an opaque stone variegated with shades of green and pink, sometimes with a little russet or red</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>White Marble: </strong></td>
<td>an opaque stone with a little metallic shimmer to it</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>White Onyx: </strong></td>
<td>a semi-translucent white to slightly yellowish-white stone that sometimes has an opaque white banding</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>White Quartz: </strong></td>
<td>a translucent white stone with varying degrees of opacity having some areas of cloudiness</td>
</tr>
</table>
<table border="0" cellPadding="0" cellSpacing="0">
<tr>
<td><img border="0" width="1" src="http://thinkcrafts.com/images/retail/shim.gif" height="10" /></td>
</tr>
</table>
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		<title>Soap Making Glossary</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/soap-making-glossary/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/soap-making-glossary/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 23:48:05 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Crafts]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/soap-making-glossary/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Abrasives: Gritty or rough substances, which are added to soap to help scrub away dirt or dead outer skin cells. Also helps remove excess oils from skin. Also considered an exfoliant. Avoid with delicate or dry skin types. Absolute: Products, not strictly essential oils, obtained through chemical solvent extraction. Allergy/Allergic: Hypersensitivity or reaction caused by [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<fb:share-button href="http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/soap-making-glossary/" type="box_count"></fb:share-button><table border="0" cellPadding="3" cellSpacing="0">
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Abrasives:</strong></td>
<td>Gritty or rough substances, which are added to soap to help scrub away dirt or dead outer skin cells. Also helps remove excess oils from skin. Also considered an exfoliant. Avoid with delicate or dry skin types.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Absolute:</strong></td>
<td>Products, not strictly essential oils, obtained through chemical solvent extraction.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Allergy/Allergic:</strong></td>
<td>Hypersensitivity or reaction caused by a substance or ingredient.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Anti-oxidants:</strong></td>
<td>Ingredient that retards the deterioration of the soap and prevents natural/fresh ingredients from combining with oxygen and becoming rancid.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Antiseptics:</strong></td>
<td>Ingredients that inhibit the growth of bacteria on living tissue or in soap.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Astringents:</strong></td>
<td>Substances or additives to soap that tighten or close skin pores. The effect makes skin feel smoother.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Aromatherapy:</strong></td>
<td>Using scents or essential oils to affect mental or physical well being of person.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Aromatherapy Benefit:</strong></td>
<td>The emotional or physical effect evoked by aromatic essential including balance, energy, rejuvenation, cleansing, deodorizing and purifying.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Aroma/aromatic:</strong></td>
<td>Having scent, flavor or taste</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Blenders:</strong></td>
<td>Additional scents that are combined with a main scent to enhance and fix the scents into a single blended fragrance.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Botanical Name:</strong></td>
<td>Refers to the Latin name of the plant in the biological classification system. A botanical name is composed of the genus followed by the species.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Carrier Oil:</strong></td>
<td>An oil base in which essential oils are diluted to create massage blends and body care products. A carrier oil has little or no scent.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Dermal:</strong></td>
<td>Pertaining to the skin.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Disinfectant:</strong></td>
<td>Prevents or combats the spread of germs.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Enfleurage:</strong></td>
<td>Age-old method of extracting essential oils using odorless fats and oils to absorb the oil from the plant material.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Essential Oil:</strong></td>
<td>Highly concentrated, volatile, aromatic essences of plants.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Emollients:</strong></td>
<td>Additives that soften skin.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Expression:</strong></td>
<td>Method of obtaining essential oil from plant material, such as citrus fruit peel. The complete oil is physically forced from the plant material. Also known as cold press extraction.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Extraction Method:</strong></td>
<td>The method by which essential oils are separated from the plant. Common extraction methods include distillation, expression and solvent extraction.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fillers:</strong></td>
<td>Ingredients that add bulk or extend a soap.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fixatives:</strong></td>
<td>Ingredients that stabilize volatile oils and prevent them from evaporating too quickly.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Food Grade:</strong></td>
<td>Safe for use in food by the Food and Drug Administration.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fragrance Oil:</strong></td>
<td>Fragrances and scents derived by synthetic means.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Herbal:</strong></td>
<td>Pertaining to natural botanicals and living plants.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Holistic:</strong></td>
<td>A natural approach to healing outside Western medicine conventions.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Homeopathy:</strong></td>
<td>Therapy using plant, animal and mineral substances in dilutions to overcome illness by stimulating the body&#8217;s natural immunity.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Hydrating:</strong></td>
<td>Restoring or maintaining normal proportion of fluid in the body or skin.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Insoluble:</strong></td>
<td>Unable to be dissolved in a liquid such as water.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Irritant:</strong></td>
<td>Substance or material that produces irritation or inflammation of the skin.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Main Scent:</strong></td>
<td>Dominant scent to which other scents can be added to create a new single blended scent.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Nervine:</strong></td>
<td>Strengthening or toning the nerves or nervous system.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Olfactory:</strong></td>
<td>Relating to or connected with the sense of smell.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Potpourri:</strong></td>
<td>Fragrant mixture of dried herbs and flowers. Usually scented with synthetic fragrance oils.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Relaxant:</strong></td>
<td>Ingredient that is soothing, relieving strain or tension.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Refrigerant:</strong></td>
<td>Ingredient that cools inflammation or eases muscle pain.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sedative:</strong></td>
<td>Ingredient that reduces functional activity or calms.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Single Note:</strong></td>
<td>Pure, 100% natural essential oil: no additives; no adulterations.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Soluble:</strong></td>
<td>Able to be dissolved in a liquid such as water.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Stimulant:</strong></td>
<td>Ingredient or substance that temporarily speeds the functional activity of a human tissue.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Synergistic:</strong></td>
<td>Characteristic in which the total effect is more effective than the individual parts.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Synergistic Blend:</strong></td>
<td>Combination of multiple essential oils that produce a completely new aroma with a different therapeutic effect.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Synthetic:</strong></td>
<td>Artificially produced substance designed to imitate that which occurs naturally.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rendering:</strong></td>
<td>Impurities in animal fats are removed during this process over heat creating tallow which is pure fat used in soap making.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Viscosity:</strong></td>
<td>Pertaining to the thickness or thinness of a liquid.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Volatile:</strong></td>
<td>Essential oils that evaporate very easily or quickly. Fixatives stabilize oils and result in a longer lasting scent.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Volatilization:</strong></td>
<td>Rate of evaporation or oxidation of an essential oil.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Wild:</strong></td>
<td>Growing spontaneously, not cultivated.</td>
</tr>
</table>
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		<title>Rubber Stamping Jargon</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/rubber-stamping-jargon/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/rubber-stamping-jargon/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 23:46:47 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Rubber Stamping]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Paper Crafts]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/rubber-stamping-jargon/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Brayer: a stamping tool which looks like a small rubber rolling pin with a handle or a roller paint brush. Often used with a linoleum block print, stampers use with unblocked stamps, smoothing paper, and large stamps to get an even print. Brush Markers: Marking pens with long broad base/narrow tip that can be used [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<fb:share-button href="http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/rubber-stamping-jargon/" type="box_count"></fb:share-button><table border="0" cellPadding="3" cellSpacing="0">
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Brayer:</strong></td>
<td>a stamping tool which looks like a small rubber rolling pin with a handle or a roller paint brush. Often used with a linoleum block print, stampers use with unblocked stamps, smoothing paper, and large stamps to get an even print.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Brush Markers:</strong></td>
<td>Marking pens with long broad base/narrow tip that can be used like a paint brush to color in stamped areas in a design. Water-based. Can also be used directly on a stamp.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Coated Paper:</strong></td>
<td>papers with a finish, glossy or matte. Accepts most inks, markers, and colored pencil, but pigment ink must be embossed.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Dye Ink:</strong></td>
<td>water-based and washable, but permanent once stamped onto paper. Stamps well, dries quickly, but will fade over time.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Embossing:</strong></td>
<td>Technique of using stamp, slow drying ink, embossing powder, and heat source to create a raised surface and stamp design on paper, ribbon, terra cotta, wood, and other stampable surfaces.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Embossing Ink:</strong></td>
<td>very wet, slow drying clear or tinted ink/fluid used as the medium that holds the stamped image as embossing powder is applied to surface.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Embossing Powder:</strong></td>
<td>a fine grained substance that will melt when heat is applied to it, the powder when melt leaves a raised design.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>First Generation Stamping:</strong></td>
<td>first impression made with a stamp after inking.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Heat Source:</strong></td>
<td>needed to melt embossing powders and must be at least 250 degrees. Stampers use high watt light bulbs, stove top burners, ovens, and heat guns.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Heat gun:</strong></td>
<td>also referred to as heat tool; looks much like a blow drier, but much hotter heating element.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Huffing:</strong></td>
<td>placing a stamp close to your mouth and breathing on it to re-wet the ink</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Juicy Image:</strong></td>
<td>using too much ink on stamp and image has too much ink on lines.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Mail Art:</strong></td>
<td>Hand designed, stamped postcards and envelopes made as communication or design specifically to be mailed to friends, fellow stampers, and in round robing, and swaps.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Overstamping:</strong></td>
<td>To stamp another stamp wholly or in part over another image.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Permanent Ink:</strong></td>
<td>either water soluble or solvent soluble inks that will not fade with time or light.. Solvent based inks dry by evaporation rather than absorption.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Pigment Ink:</strong></td>
<td>thicker, richer, and highly fade resistant type of ink vs. dye inks. Slow drying so works as a perfect embossing ink.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rainbow Stamp Pad:</strong></td>
<td>usually has three or more colors on the same ink pad, more recently the pads have been made in separate, removable sections.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Second Generation:</strong></td>
<td>third generation and so on; succeeding stamped images after the First generation stamped image is completed. Gives unique effects to stamped work.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sparkle:</strong></td>
<td>as in add the sparkle; using glitter, mylars, and other supplies to add &#8220;sparkle,&#8221; color, and glitz to stamped piece.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Uncoated Paper:</strong></td>
<td>papers with a higher absorbency rate that coated papers and easier to use with most inks, markers, watercolors, and colored pencils.</td>
</tr>
</table>
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		<title>Types of Paper</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/types-of-paper/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/types-of-paper/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 23:45:45 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Paper Crafts]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/types-of-paper/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Acetate: not a paper per say, but often used as a surface. A thin, flexible sheet of transparent plastic used to make overlays Acid Free Paper: has no free acid, or a pH of at least 6.5. The use of a synthetic sizing material allows the paper to be manufactured with a neutral or alkaline [...]]]></description>
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<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Acetate: </strong></td>
<td>not a paper per say, but often used as a surface. A thin, flexible sheet of transparent plastic used to make overlays</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Acid Free Paper: </strong></td>
<td>has no free acid, or a pH of at least 6.5. The use of a synthetic sizing material allows the paper to be manufactured with a neutral or alkaline pH</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Acid Sized Paper: </strong></td>
<td>manufactured under acid conditions having no surface buffering capacity</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Board Paper: </strong></td>
<td>grade of paper commonly used for file folders, displays, and post cards</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bond Paper: </strong></td>
<td>grade of paper commonly used for writing, printing, and photocopying</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Book Paper: </strong></td>
<td>grade of paper suitable for books, magazines, and general printing needs</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bristol Paper: </strong></td>
<td>type of board paper used for post cards, business cards, and other heavy-use products. Some types of Bristol are referred to as Vellum Bristol, but are not true translucent vellum</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Buffered Paper: </strong></td>
<td>made in an acid environment and then buffered on the surface to obtain a required pH</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>C1S: </strong></td>
<td>paper coated on one side</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>C2S: </strong></td>
<td>paper coated on both sides</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cardboard Paper: </strong></td>
<td>general term for stiff, bulky paper such as index, tag, or Bristol</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Corrugated Paper: </strong></td>
<td>fluted paper between sheets of paper or cardboard or the fluted paper by itself</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cotton Content Paper: </strong></td>
<td>made from cotton fibers rather than wood pulp</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Dry Gum Paper: </strong></td>
<td>label paper or sheet of paper with glue that can be activated by water</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Enamel Paper: </strong></td>
<td>another term for Coated paper with gloss finish</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Handmade Paper: </strong></td>
<td>sheet of paper, made individually by hand using a mold and deckle</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Index Paper: </strong></td>
<td>light weight board paper for writing and easy erasure</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Laid Paper: </strong></td>
<td>paper with a prominent pattern of ribbed lines in the finished sheet. It is accomplished in handmade paper using a screen-like mold of closely set parallel horizontal wires, crossed at right angles by vertical wires spaced somewhat further apart</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Machine Made Paper: </strong></td>
<td>sheet of paper produced on a rapidly moving machine called the Fourdrinier, which forms, dries, sizes and smoothes the sheet; uniformity of size and surface texture marks the machine-made sheet</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Manila Paper: </strong></td>
<td>strong, buff-colored paper used to make envelopes and file folders</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Mold Made Paper: </strong></td>
<td>sheet of paper that simulates a handmade sheet in look, but is made by a slowly rotating machine called a cylinder-mould; the machine was introduced in England in 1895</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Parchment: </strong></td>
<td>paper that simulates writing surfaces made from animal skins</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rag Paper: </strong></td>
<td>paper made from fibers of non-wood origin, including actual cotton rags, cotton linters, cotton or linen pulp. Rag papers contain from 25-100% cotton fiber pulp</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rice Paper: </strong></td>
<td>common misnomer applied to lightweight Oriental papers; rice alone cannot produce a sheet of paper so rice (straw) is only occasionally mixed with other fibers in papermaking; the name may be derived from the rice size once used in Japanese papermaking</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Shrink Medium: </strong></td>
<td>not a paper per say, but a sheet of thin clear or opaque plastic that once heated shrinks in size</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Specialty Paper: </strong></td>
<td>term for carbonless, pressure-sensitive, synthetic, and other papers made for special applications</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Synthetic paper: </strong></td>
<td>plastic or other petroleum-based paper</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Tissue Paper: </strong></td>
<td>thin, translucent, lightweight papers available in many colors</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Waterleaf Paper: </strong></td>
<td>paper with little or no sizing, like blotter, making it very absorbent; if dampening is desired, this paper can be sprayed with an atomizer</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Wove Paper: </strong></td>
<td>paper with a uniform unlined surface and smooth finish, generally made on a European style mould with a woven wire surface</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Vellum: </strong></td>
<td>stiff, translucent paper available in clear, white, marbled, colored or embossed</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Velveteen Paper: </strong></td>
<td>also called plush or suede paper; paper with velvet feel and nap</td>
</tr>
</table>
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		<title>Paper Jargon</title>
		<link>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/paper-jargon/</link>
		<comments>http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/paper-jargon/#comments</comments>
		<pubDate>Tue, 24 Jun 2008 23:44:36 +0000</pubDate>
		<dc:creator></dc:creator>
				<category><![CDATA[Glossaries]]></category>
		<category><![CDATA[Paper Crafts]]></category>

		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/paper-jargon/</guid>
		<description><![CDATA[Acidity: a state of a substance that contains acid. Paper become acidic from the ingredients used in its manufacture, from the environment or both Alum: astringent crystalline substance used in rosin sizing to hold paper fibers together and responsible for introducing acid into the paper Basic Size: standard size of each grade of paper used [...]]]></description>
			<content:encoded><![CDATA[<fb:share-button href="http://thinkcrafts.com/blog/2008/06/24/paper-jargon/" type="box_count"></fb:share-button><table border="0" cellPadding="3" cellSpacing="0">
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Acidity: </strong></td>
<td>a state of a substance that contains acid. Paper become acidic from the ingredients used in its manufacture, from the environment or both</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Alum: </strong></td>
<td>astringent crystalline substance used in rosin sizing to hold paper fibers together and responsible for introducing acid into the paper</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Basic Size: </strong></td>
<td>standard size of each grade of paper used to calculate basis weight</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Basis Weight: </strong></td>
<td>weight in pounds of a ream of paper cut to the basic size for its grade</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Bast Fibers: </strong></td>
<td>refers to a group of fibers commonly used in Japanese papermaking, including flax, gampi, hemp, jute, kozo and mitsumata</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Brightness: </strong></td>
<td>characteristic of paper referring to how much light it reflects</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Buffering: </strong></td>
<td>process that gradually neutralizes a paper’ s acidity by adding an alkaline substance, like calcium carbonate, at the pulp stage. Buffering helps reduce the acidity of paper over time</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Coated Paper: </strong></td>
<td>papers with a finish, glossy or matte. Accepts most inks, markers, and colored pencil, but pigment ink must be embossed</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cold Pressed: </strong></td>
<td>mildly textured surfaces produced by pressing the paper through unheated rollers. Generally considered to be a surface between rough and hot pressed</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Cut Stock: </strong></td>
<td>paper distributor term for paper 11 x 17 or smaller</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Deckle: </strong></td>
<td>wood frame resting on or hinged to the edges of the mold that defines the edges of the sheet in handmade papermaking. Also strap or board on the wet end of a paper machine that determines the width of the paper web</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Deckle Edge: </strong></td>
<td>natural, fuzzy edges of handmade papers, simulated in mould-made and machine-made papers by a jet stream of water while the paper is still wet. Handmade papers have 4 deckle edges, while mold-made and machine-made papers usually have two</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Dull Finish: </strong></td>
<td>characteristic of paper that reflects relatively little light</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Durability: </strong></td>
<td>degree to which paper retains its original qualities with use</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Fibers: </strong></td>
<td>slender, thread-like cellulose structures that cohere to form a sheet of paper</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Filler: </strong></td>
<td>generic term to describe the nonoxidizing clays or minerals added to the pulp at the beater stage to improve paper density</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Finishing: </strong></td>
<td>term used to describe the cutting, sorting, trimming and packing of paper</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Gampi: </strong></td>
<td>blast fiber from the gampi tree used in Japanese papermaking to yield a translucent, strong sheet</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Gm/m2: </strong></td>
<td>metric measure of weight for artist papers. It compares the weights [in grams] of different papers, each occupying one square meter of space, irrespective of individual sheet dimensions. Another way of comparing paper weights is pounds per ream. A 140 lb. paper indicates that a ream [500 sheets] of that particular paper weights 140 lbs</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Gloss: </strong></td>
<td>characteristic of paper, ink, or varnish that reflects relatively large amounts of light</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Grade: </strong></td>
<td>one of seven major categories of paper: bond, uncoated book, coated book, text, cover, board, and specialty</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Grain: </strong></td>
<td>the direction in which fibers are aligned</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Grain Direction: </strong></td>
<td>direction in which the fibers of machine-made paper lie due to the motion of the machine. When machine-made paper is moistened, the fibers swell more across their width than along their length, so the paper tends to expand at right angles to the machine direction. Handmade and mold-made papers have indistinguishable grain directions</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Grain long or grain short: </strong></td>
<td>paper whose fibers parallel the long or short dimension of the sheet.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>High Alpha: </strong></td>
<td>nearly pure form of wood pulp which has the same potential longevity in paper as cotton, linen or other natural fiber</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Hot Pressed: </strong></td>
<td>smooth, glazed surfaces produced by pressing the paper through hot rollers after formation of the sheet</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Kozo: </strong></td>
<td>most common fiber used in Japanese papermaking, it comes from the mulberry tree. This is a long, tough fiber that produces strong absorbent sheets</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Linter: </strong></td>
<td>general term for preprocessed pulp, cotton or wood, purchased in sheet form. Cotton linters are fibers left on the seed after the long fibers have been removed for textile use. They are too short to be spun into cloth but can be cooked and made into paper. Stiffer and more brittle than long-fibered cotton, linters produce a low-shrinkage pulp good for paper casting. They cannot produce a paper with the strength of cotton rag. Wood linters are called hardwood or softwood depending on grade</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Mitsumata: </strong></td>
<td>bast fiber used in Japanese papermaking that yields a soft, absorbent and lustrous quality</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Mold: </strong></td>
<td>tool for hand-papermaking, it is a flat screen that filters an even layer of fibers through it to form the sheet. In western papermaking, it is accompanied with a wooden frame called a deckle</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Opacity: </strong></td>
<td>characteristic of paper that helps prevent printing on one side from showing on the other</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Permanence: </strong></td>
<td>degree to which paper resists deterioration over time</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>pH: </strong></td>
<td>measure of the hydrogen ion concentration of water solution and substance, denoting acid or alkaline A paper’s pH is measured on a scale from one to fourteen. Seven is neutral. Numbers higher than seven are alkaline and numbers lower than seven are acidic. Papers with a pH of 6.5 to 7.5 are generally considered neutral</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Plate Finish: </strong></td>
<td>smooth surface found on paper that has been run under a calender machine one or more times</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Ply: </strong></td>
<td>single web of paper, used by itself or laminated onto one or more additional webs as it is run through the paper machine</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Pulp: </strong></td>
<td>general term describing the beaten, wet mixture of stock used in making paper, whether its contents are wood, cotton or other fibers</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rags: </strong></td>
<td>processed clippings of new cotton remnants from the garment industry for use in high quality papers.</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Rough: </strong></td>
<td>heavily textured surfaces produced by minimal pressing after sheet formation</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Size: </strong></td>
<td>material, such as rosin, glue, gelatin, starch, modified cellulose, etc. added to the stock at the pulp stage, or applied to the surface of the paper when dry, to provide resistance to liquid penetration</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Sulfite: </strong></td>
<td>term for pulp made from wood. Depending on how it is processed for papermaking, it can either be acidic or neutral pH</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Surface-Sized: </strong></td>
<td>term applied to a paper whose surface has been treated with a sizing material after the sheet is dry or semi-dry</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Uncoated Paper: </strong></td>
<td>papers with a higher absorbency rate that coated papers and easier to use with most inks, markers, watercolors, and colored pencils</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Watermark: </strong></td>
<td>design applied to the surface of the paper mold, which causes less pulp to be distributed in that area and results in the transfer of the design to the finished sheet</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Web: </strong></td>
<td>continuous ribbon of paper, in its full width, during any stage of its progress though the paper machine</td>
</tr>
<tr>
<td noWrap="true" vAlign="top"><strong>Wet Strength: </strong></td>
<td>strength of a sheet of paper after it is saturated with water</td>
</tr>
</table>
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