Clear Stamps

Rubber Stamping, Techniques and Mediums No Comments

Die: The rubber or image part of a stampCushion: A layer between the die and the mount

Mount: The base the die and cushion are placed onto.

· Clear stamps are not made of rubber. The image made clear material that you can see through for placement.

· Most clear stamps are in sheets or groupings and need a mount to use. Mounts are made of clear matter too.

· The benefit of a clear stamp is that you need no additional tools to get perfect placement of the image. You also do not need any temporary adhesive to mount the stamp as you do with unmounted rubberstamps.

· No cushion is used with clear stamps. These stamps tend to be a little thicker than rubber dies and the cushion is built into the clear die.

· Clear stamps can not produce the clean, crisp image that a rubberstamp can produce. In most cases, this is not an issue for the scrapbooker or the cardmaker.

· Clear stamps can be inked with any type of ink, but keep in mind that permanent inks are very difficult clean off the image, it’s better to use pigment inks, dye inks, chalk inks, and even acrylic inks while avoiding any alcohol based inks.

· Clear stamps can be used for most rubberstamping techniques as long as alcohol based inks aren’t used. Let your imagination be your guide!

· This type of stamp is great for the beginner or for any paper artist who just wants to add a little more detail and creativity to scrapbooking, cardmaking, collage, or altered art.

· Clear stamps should be cleaned by wiping the image or with a very mild soap. They need to be stored flat, dry and out of sunlight and extreme heat or cold.

· Clear stamps come in a variety of images, but for most scrapbookers a collection of borders and alphabets will produce the most use and benefit.

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Brushes For Scrapbooking

Scrapbooking, Techniques and Mediums No Comments

Round Brush: Brush usually with a round ferrule and round shape brush tip that can come to a point or be trimmed flat. The size can go from 000 (tiny fine tip) to 10+ (big fat brush).· Spotters- Fine detail work

· Liners- Continuous curved or straight lines of same thickness

· Scripts- Holds more liquid than Liners

Flat Brush: Brush with long bristles with a square- cut brush tip and a ferrule that is somewhat flat usually size by number such as 2, 8, or 16 or by fraction 1/4″, 1/2″, 3/4″

Hake Brush: Oriental brushes that are very fluffy and absorbent available round and flat best known for their use in Sumi-e or Oriental brush stroking.

Stencil Brush: Very stiff round brush with flat or even tip used dry, loaded with paint, crème paint or ink and with a circular motion applied to surface in combination with a stencil.

Make-Up Brushes: Usually very “fluffy” used to apply chalks and pastels.

Stipple Brush: Stiff round brush with uneven tip used dry, paint or ink is loaded onto brush and brush is pounced onto surface giving texture.

Specialty Brushes: Do very specific techniques and include such brushes as Filbert, One Stroke, Mop, Rake, Fan, Liner, or Paste.

Sponges: Different types and sizes, including natural and synthetic giving either a smooth or textured look when loaded with color and pounced on surface.

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Scrapbook Adhesive Tips

Scrapbooking, Techniques and Mediums No Comments

· Always check the label if you need acid free, archival glue for the project. Most glues are now acid-free, but when in doubt, read the label and packaging.· Not all adhesives dry clear! Make sure you read the label and packaging of any glue you use that you need to dry clear.· Try to match your adhesive to the project or bond best suited for the adhesive. Most adhesives list what the adhesive will bond either on the label or the packaging.

· Always recap the container of liquid glues between uses. Many liquid glues dry quickly when exposed to air and will clog if not recapped.

· If the bottle of glue has a tip that needs to be trimmed or cut before using, cut at an angle rather than straight across the tip. An angled tip gives you more control over the flow of glue from the bottle.

· While using a bottle of glue (capped), keep the bottle tip down in a glass or on its side. This keeps the glue ready to use and keeps air bubbles out of the glue.

· Need your glue to be a little tackier? Just remove the bottle top and allow to stand for 30-60 minutes. The air will remove liquid from the glue making it thicker and tackier.

· Keep bottle tips clean. Wipe frequently and every so often remove the top and clean it thoroughly with warm water and soap. Allow to dry completely and place back onto bottle.

· When using a tape runner, never press down hard or pull forward on the runner. Read the label instructions for using your brand of tape runner.

· On a regular basis, check to make sure there is no excess adhesive in the head of your tape runner. Sometimes the adhesive clings to the inside of the runner and can eventually clog.

· Most adhesives have a shelf life meaning that over time they may lose strength if not properly stored. Keep all adhesives in a cool, dry place out of direct sunlight.

· Only remove the paper backing from any adhesive right before you need to use it. Otherwise it may stick in the wrong spot or have dust/unwanted particles attach to it.

· If the paper backing is difficult to remove, roll a corner or lightly score a corner. With the tip of a needle or pin, prick the corner and lift.

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Additional Scrapbooking “Adhesives”

Scrapbooking, Techniques and Mediums No Comments

Brads: Usually metal, often decorative with 2 prongs at back. A hole is made for the prongs to be inserted into and then prongs are spread to attach an item.Clips: Plastic or metal the item to be attached is slipped into the mouth of the clip. Some clips can be opened while others are set. Additional adhesive can be used to bond the clip to surface or the clip is simply “clipped” onto an edge of the surface.Dimensional Dots: A foam (can be a dot, square, or other shape) with adhesive on both sides covered temporarily with a paper backing or a solid dot of adhesive. Paper backing must be removed before use. Adds dimension.

Dimensional Paints: Dimensional paints can act as a glue with strong bonding ability. Great in a bind or if you want a little outline added to an embellishment.

Eyelets: A metal embellishment that needs to be set with an eyelet tool. A hole is made to insert the eyelet, and then the back of the eyelet is set or smashed to set it. Eyelet can adhere a photo, mat, or embellishment.

Foam Tape: Double stick foam where paper backing is removed to expose adhesive, used to add dimension.

Glitter Glue Pens: Glitter is added to a clear glue base and can be used as an adhesive for embellishments rather than with photos.

Glue Dots: Solid adhesive usually a dot shape that can be used to add dimension as well as bonding.

Hot Glue: A solid stick of glue that needs to be melted usually with a glue gun or glue hot pot to be applied. As it cools, the glue bonds and becomes solid again.

Threads: Threads and flosses can be used with a sewing needle to stitch or adhere items to surfaces. Often used in conjunction with small buttons.

Photo Corners: Paper or other acid free material with a slot that the photo slides into, the photo corner adheres to a surface, not the photo.

Pins: From safety pins to stick pins, this trendy idea is catching on and makes a decorative statement. It’s recommended that a small hole be punched for the pin to slide through rather than counting on the pin to be sharp enough to poke through thicker papers.

Pop Dots: Foam with adhesive on both sides that is used to add dimension as well as bonding.

Stickers: Traditional scrapbooking, acid free stickers are used (overlapping item to be adhered with surface) to adhere materials using the sticker like a piece of tape.

“Warm” Glue: In the family of hot glues, but this glue is designed to melt at a much lower temperature and is better for delicate materials like mylars, photos, tissue papers. A glue stick is inserted into a dual or warm temperature glue gun.

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Scrapbooking Adhesives

Scrapbooking, Techniques and Mediums No Comments

2-Way Glue: You apply this adhesive to both surfaces you are bonding. If you apply wet to wet the bond is permanent. If you allow the adhesive to dry, apply dry to dry, the bond is temporary.Adhesive Dots: Double-sided adhesive that is applied in a series of dots rather than a thin solid ribbon of adhesive using a tape runner.

Adhesive Squares: This “tape” has adhesive covered with a paper backing on both sides. Remove the paper backing and apply. Adds a spot of adhesive rather than a line of adhesive like tape runners.

Decoupage Glue: Thin glue brushed onto surface of paper as a sealer and under paper as a bonding agent.

Double Stick Tape: This tape has adhesive on both sides, but no paper backing.

Clear Lacquer: A very clear glue that can be used to bond materials or as a top-coat over a material to give the material a glass like look.

Epoxy: Usually mixed (2 Part Epoxies) just before use, this glue is as tough as glues come.

Fabric Glue: Designed to bond fabric without bleeding and many hold up through washings.

Glitter Glue: A liquid thin-bodied glue designed to adhere fine glitters to surfaces, which dries clear and doesn’t “soak up” the glitter, but allows the glitter to float on the glue surface for extra sparkle.

Glue Stick: Glue in solid form inside of a tube that is rubbed onto surface.

Glue Pens: Liquid glue in a handy pen applicator with various shaped tips.

Instant Glue: Fast drying, this chemical glue works best on small surface areas using only a small amount of glue. Best on nonporous surfaces.

Jewelry Glue: Designed to hold or bond heavier objects such as a bead to paper or metal to paper.

Paper Glue: A thin-bodied glue designed to bond paper without damage to paper such as buckling or wrinkling.

Plastic Cement: This glue works by dissolving any plastic areas it touches thus bonding two such surfaces.

Rubber Cement: Glues paper without wrinkling and can be repositioned. Best not to use on photos.

Tacky Glue: Very thick-bodied white glue that can bond with a hold similar to a hot glue without the heat.

Tape Runners: A double-sided adhesive that is applied with a tape holder or runner.

Ultra Tacky Tape: This thick, usually pink tape has an extra bond quality often used to adhere seed or mini beads and is often used for embossing lines.

White Glue: Non-toxic, nonflammable, this all-purpose glue works on most surfaces and dries clear.

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Needle Felting

Needlearts, Techniques and Mediums No Comments

 Materials

Felting Needle

Roving

Cushion or Felting Cushion

How To

Example will be a simple felt ball sized to about 1″ to make a felt bead.

  1. Pull tufts of roving and start forming a small ball.  Continue to roll the ball with small tufts of roving until it’s just a little bigger than you want the finished ball to be.
  2. Carefully begin to softly punch the ball with your felting needle.  Be careful, felting needles are very sharp with barbed bodies.  You only need to push the needle in about ½”.  You can do this while the ball is in one hand, felting with the other hand or place ball onto a cushion and felt it while holding it in place.  Keep moving the ball so you felt all sides.  You’ll see and feel it getting firmer and harder.  Continue until ball is firm.
  3. This is the basic technique of needle felting.  You can shape the roving into just about any shape and felt it.  For a doll you might make the head, body, arms, and legs.  Then you’ll attach the pieces together by felting them… punching the felting needle into the 2 layers to form a bond.  Wool fibers have “hooks” and by agitating the hooks (by needle or water) the hooks bond permanently.
  4. One of the best ways to learn about felting is to purchase a kit or book!
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Wet Felting

Needlearts, Techniques and Mediums No Comments

 Materials

Roving (wool)

Bowl of water

Liquid Dish Soap

How To

Example will be a simple felt ball sized to about 1″ to make a felt bead.

  1. Pull tufts of roving and start forming a small ball.  Continue to roll the ball with small tufts of roving until it’s just a little bigger than you want the finished ball to be.
  2. Add a little liquid dish soap to a large bowl of water.  About 1 tsp per quart of water.
  3. Drizzle water over the ball.  While holding ball in one hand, drizzle with water until damp, but not dripping.  Too much water will make the felt hard to control and mushy.
  4. Throw ball back and forth in hands for several minutes, you will feel the ball getting firmer and harder.  When firm, rinse until clear with warm water.  Set aside to dry.
  5. This is wet felting.  It’s best to use a simple liquid dish soap, not one that has been scented or has anti-bacteria agents.  Using this basic technique you can felt anything your imagination can create!  Wool fibers have “hooks” and by agitating the hooks (by needle or water) the hooks bond permanently.
  6. One of the best ways to learn more about felting is by purchasing a kit or book.
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