Think Crafts Blog - Craft Ideas and Projects - CreateForLess

Supplies Needed

Eyelet Hole Punch, Regular Paper Hole Punch or Long Reach Hole Punch: To make a hole in paper for the eyelet to fit into. It’s best to match the size of the hole punch to the size of the eyelet being set. For brads most hole sizes will work, but don’t make the hole bigger than the front of the brad.
Eyelet Setter*: Tool that will crimp back of eyelet to hold it in place. There are different sizes of eyelets and you should have the right size setter for the eyelet.
Small Hammer or Mallet: To crimp back of eyelet when used with eyelet setter.
Small Mat: Many feel the best result is gotten if there is a mat between the eyelet to be set and a flat surface.
Eyelets: Available in 3 basic sizes in every color imaginable. Eyelets can be traditional (round hole) or as a specialty in shapes like stars, hearts, flowers and more.
Brads: Available in a variety of sizes, shapes and colors. Has 2 prongs on back.
Nailheads: Available in a variety of sizes, shapes and colors. Has several prongs on back.
*There is an all in one eyelet hole and eyelet setter tool available.

Step-by-Step

Eyelets

1. Punch hole where you want to place an eyelet.
2. Slip eyelet into hole. Remember to place the eyelet so the back of the eyelet is coming out to the back/wrong side of your project.
3. Place project on mat. Place eyelet setter so that sits on top of the back of the eyelet.
4. Tap the top of the eyelet setter firmly with your hammer or mallet. Tap until back of eyelet is flush. Keep in mind that eyelets vary in metal firmness. One brand may need only one tap while another may need 2-3.

Brads

1. Punch hole where you want to place a brad. Make sure hole is smaller than brad front.
2. Place brad into hole with right side on top and prongs to the back of your page or project.
3. Separate prongs and spread flush with paper.
4. Brads can help you bring movement within your design. For example attach arms or legs with a brad and the arm or leg can move.

Nail Heads

1. Gently push nail head down into paper, piercing the paper with nail head prongs. This is easiest if you use a cushion or self-healing mat.
2. Turn paper over and gently push prongs down with a wood craft stick or other flat tool. Be careful, prongs are sharp.

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Embossing simply means a raised surface. You may have tried embossing with rubber stamps and embossing powders, that technique is referred to as “wet embossing.” Dry embossing is a simpler and less messy method to achieve the raised effect on paper.

Supplies Needed

Paper: The thicker the paper the more raised your design will be.
Template: Bass templates, stencils, and even a homemade design cut from heavy weight paper will do. Light Source: Either a light table or sunny window
Stylus: An embossing stylus, it looks like a small pencil with a round metal ball at one end, however, you can also use the tip end of a small paintbrush, tip end of a crochet hook or a dull ended knitting needle.
Optional: Drafting tape or other low tack tape to hold template in place on light box or sunny window.

Step-by-Step

1. Attach template to your light source. Either hold in place or tape in place.
2. Cover the template with your paper. You must be able to see the template and the outline of the design. The design will be viewed (or finish) in the reverse of what you are seeing on the light source. Remember this especially when dry embossing any lettering.
3. Simply outline the design with your stylus. Press firmly, but do not rip the paper. You only need to press down the outline–your stylus will be placed to touch the stencil.
4. Lift paper off the light source and turn over. The design should be raised against the background.
5. The rest is left to your imagination so have fun! The design can be painted with acrylics, washes, markers, color pencils, or watercolor pencils. Make scrapbook page embellishments, cards, stationary and so much more. This is a great technique for children too.

Tips

• Before embossing the paper, rub wax paper (or your fingers) over the paper. This helps prevent tearing and lets your embossing stylus glide over the paper.
• On vellum paper, the vellum will lighten or whiten as you move your stylus around the template.
• Store brass templates in an airtight zip-lock plastic bag to prevent rusting.

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At some point, you will need to copy some of your photographs for preservation purposes. These are usually older photos that no longer have a negative. Remember, you never want to crop or permanently adhere any photo that doesn’t have a negative. You’ll want to safely store the original in an acid-free environment and only use copies of the photo for your scrapbook pages. Later on, I’ll tell you about scanning old photos (see page 000) so you can print them whenever you want from the convenience of your printer.

When you have copies of photos made at photo centers the professional staff can make you aware that copyright laws protect certain photos, but when you are printing photos at home it may not cross your mind that you are violating these laws. With few exceptions, all professionally shot photographs may not be copied without permission from the professional photographer who took the photos. Some professional photographers do include a set of negatives with their paid service, but most do not. If you are given the negatives you are given the right to make copies.

Some situations call for hiring a professional photographer—and a professional photographer is worth every penny. You don’t have to worry if you’ll get good pictures. You don’t have to worry that the groom’s head will just be out of the frame or that your finger blocked the flash. Take the time to ask up front the cost of reprints or additional prints you feel you might need for your scrapbooking. Make sure you set aside some of your budget for the photographs.

To avoid copyright problems altogether with professional photographers, take your own photos. Place disposable cameras on the table at a wedding, or ask several friends to take photos at the wedding for you. Learn to take casual head shots of your children for scrapbooking, saving the professional shots for framed presentations. While these types of photos may not be as perfect as those taken by a professional, you will own the copyright to your own work.

Some older photographs taken by professionals may no longer have copyright protection. If photos are over 75 years old, generally the copyright has expired. A professional photographer or photo printing shop will be able to help you determine if your photo falls into this category. Many times the photographer and/or his business are no longer available. Better safe than sorry. Try to locate the photographer and/or business. You can learn more about copyright protection and laws by contacting the Library of Congress:

Library of Congress
Copyright Office
101 Independence Avenue, S.E.
Washington, D.C. 20559-6000
(202) 707-3000
http://www.copyright.gov

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